Crochet Keychain Buddy - Free Pattern | Jo to the World Creations

Crochet Keychain

This adorable and easy crochet keychain pattern makes an amazing quick gift or stocking stuffer. It’s called a keychain buddy and creates a little purse that can be easily attached to a keychain so that you can bring with you credit cards, hand sanitizer, earphones or ear buds, dog pickup bags and so much more. You won’t be able to live without it!

Crochet Keychain Free Pattern

This crochet keychain free pattern is made with only basic stitches (single crochet, chain and slip stitches). It is such a quick pattern! You can make it in approx. 30 minutes. And it’s great for using up your scrap yarn as you’ll only need 30 yards of any kind of worsted weight yarn.

It’s a perfect gift for anyone – kids, men, women, coworkers, friends, family and grandparents will love (and actually use) this crochet keychain buddy!

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Crochet Keychain Buddy Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

Approx. 4” wide and 2.5” high (not including flap or strap).

Gauge

2” x 2” = 4 sc and 7 rows (following the pattern for the body)

Materials

Yarn: Approx. 30 yds of any size 4 (medium) worsted weight yarn. I used Loops & Threads Impeccable Yarn, Solid in the colors Green Lagoon, Rich Orchid and Blue Moon. This yarn is medium (4) weight and 100% acrylic (4.5 oz / 127.5 g and 285 yds / 260 m).

Hook Size: G/6 (4.25 mm).

Other Materials: yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape, one 10 mm button, one 20 mm button, sewing needle and thread.

Terminology

This pattern is easy. It is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart.

Abbreviations

ch = chain
st = stitch
sts = stitches
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
ch-1 sp = chain 1 space
ch-2 sp = chain 2 space
BLO = back loop only

Please note: This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be copied, shared, altered or sold on your own. You are welcome to sell the finished product but please include a link (if online) and reference jototheworld.com.

Crochet Keychain Buddy Video Tutorial

Here you can watch the step by step video tutorial or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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Crochet Keychain Buddy Written Instructions

BOTTOM

Start: Chain 17.

For Row 1 (only) work into the back ridge loops.

Row 1: In the 2nd ch from hook, sc. Sc in each ch across. (16 sts).

Row 2: Ch 1. Do not turn. For this row, you will first work into the bottom chain stitches and then the top stitches.

Rotate your work so the bottom chain is now facing up. Work along the bottom, into the chain sts. In the 1st ch along the bottom, sc into the back loop only (BLO), which is the loop furthest away from you.

Place a stitch marker in the top of the 1st sc. Sc in the BLO of each ch across the bottom. (You will have a total of 16 sts across the bottom).

Rotate your work so the tops of the sc sts from the previous row are facing up. You will now work into the tops of the sc sts from the previous row.

Sk the ch. In the 1st st, make 2 sc into the BLO. Make 1 sc into the BLO of the next 15 sts. (33 sts – chains never count as stitches). Sl st into both loops of the ch 1 that started the row. Do not fasten off.

After Row 2, work should measure approx. 4” long x 1” wide.

Body

Notes:

As you work on the body, you will notice that the top of the bottom you just completed will be facing down and will be on the outside bottom.
The body is worked in the round, do not turn.
Chains never count as stitches.
Place a stitch marker in the top of the 1st sc of each round to help ensure you start and end in the right place and have the correct number of stitches.

Round 1: Ch 1. (Reminder: never turn). Sc in the 1st st (the st attached to the chain. Reminder: always place a stitch marker in the top of the 1st sc). *Ch 1. Sk the next st. Sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. (17 sc sts. Reminder: chains never count as sts). After your last sc, ch 1. Sl st into the top of the 1st sc to join.

Note: every time you ch 1 and sk a st, you are creating a “chain 1 space” (ch-1 sp) that you will work into on the next round.

Round 2: Sl st into the 1st ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Sc in the same ch-1 space. *Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp.* Repeat from * to * around. (17 sc sts). After last sc, do not ch 1. Sl st into top of 1st sc to join.

Note: every time you ch 1 and sc into a ch-1 sp, you are creating a new ch-1 sp that you will work into on the next round.

After Round 2, work should measure approx. 4” long x 1” high (from bottom).

Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in the 1st st (the top of the 1st sc from the previous round – same as sl st). *Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp.* Repeat from * to * around. (17 sc sts). After your last sc, there is a slight gap but it is not a ch-1 sp and doesn’t get worked into. After your last sc, ch 1. Sl st into the top of the 1st sc to join.

Round 4: Repeat Round 2.

Round 5: Repeat Round 3.

Round 6: Repeat Round 2.

Round 7: Repeat Round 3.

After Round 7, work should measure approx. 4” long x 2.5” (from bottom).

If you would like to make the body higher, continue repeating Rounds 2 & 3 consecutively. End after completing a Round 3. Do not fasten off.

Strap

If your last st is far from corner / crease, turn and sl st to the corner and then begin the strap instructions.

Start: Chain 15.

For Row 1, work into the back ridge loops.

Row 1: In the 4th ch from hook, sc. (The 3 unworked chains creates a button hole). Sc in each ch across. (12 sc sts in total). Working into the body (in the same direction as the previous round), sl st into the same st as the ch. Sl st into the next ch-1 sp. Do not fasten off.

Flap

Row 1: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the 1st ch-1 sp (the same ch-1 sp as your sl st). Ch 1. *Sc in the next ch-1 sp. Ch 1.* Complete instructions from * to * a total of 5 times. Sc in the next ch-1 sp. (7 sc sts made in the row). The rest of the sts from the last round of the body are left unworked.

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn. Sc in the 1st ch-1 sp. Ch 1. *Sc in the next ch-1 sp. Ch 1.* Complete instructions from * to * a total of 5 times. Sc in the top of the last sc. (7 sc sts).

Row 3: Ch 2 and turn. Sc in the 1st ch-1 sp. Ch 1. *Sc in the next ch-1 sp. Ch 1.* Complete instructions from * to * a total of 5 times. Sc in the ch-2 sp (between the last sc and the ch 2 from the previous row). (7 sc sts).

Rows 4 – 6: Repeat Row 3.

You can repeat Row 3 for less or more rows. End after an even number row. The final row of the flap is Row 7.

Row 7: Ch 2 and turn. Sc in the 1st ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (this creates the button hole). *Sc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1.* Repeat across until the last ch-2 sp. In the ch-2 sp, sc.

Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Buttons

Using a sewing needle and thread, attach a 10 mm button approx. 1” below the strap inside the body along the crease. Sew into the backs of stitches to ensure thread does not show through the front.

Attach a 20 mm button to the front of the body in the middle. If you want your flap to close tightly over the body, place the button a little lower.