
Easy Octopus – Free Crochet Pattern
Learn how to make a cute crochet octopus amigurumi with this crochet octopus pattern & video tutorial! It’s a perfect crochet octopus for beginners.
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Crochet Octopus Pattern
If you are looking for an easy crochet octopus pattern or an adorable crochet octopus amigurumi, you’ve come to the right place! Say hello to Mr. & Mrs. Octopus…

This easy crochet octopus pattern will show you how to crochet an octopus from start to finish. It’s a perfect crochet octopus for beginners as there are detailed written instructions as well as a step-by-step video tutorial.
Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.
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Pattern Details
Skill Level
Easy
Size
The pattern creates an octopus with a body that is approx. 3.5” across. It is approx. 8” tall (not including the hat or bow).

Materials
Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approx. 115 yds for the body and legs and approx. 10 yds for the hat and 10 yds for the bow.
I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads in the colors “Clear Blue” (for the blue octopus) and “Arbor Rose” (for the pink octopus) for the body and legs and “Black” for the hat and bow. This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g.
Crochet Hook Size: F/5 (3.75 mm).
Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, polyester stuffing and two 12 mm (0.4”) craft eyes (warning: eyes are a choking hazard for children 2 and under). Optional: stitch markers.

Terminology
This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart.
Abbreviations
- ch/chs = chain/chains
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- hdc2tog = half double crochet two together
- BLO = back loops only
- FLO = front loops only

Gauge
Exact sizing is not important. For reference, after Body Round 3, work should measure 2.5” across.
Pattern Notes
- Chains never count as stitches.
- Always work into the first stitch (the stitch attached to the chain). When the instructions for the round say “in the next st” and it’s the first stitch of the round, work into the first stitch.
- Never turn at the start or end of any round.
- Tip: place a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch made in each round. It will help you count your stitches and know where to join.
Stitch Explanation
In this pattern, when the instructions say: “over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog,” it means to half double crochet those two stitches together (sometimes called an hdc decrease). In case this is new to you, here’s how:
Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog)
Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the first designated st. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO. Insert your hook into the next designated st. YO and pull through a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 5 loops on your hook. This completed hdc2tog counts as one stitch.
Video Tutorial
Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for all the written instructions.

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How to Crochet the Easy Octopus
Octopus Body Instructions
Use the color you would like for the body & legs.
Body Start: Make a Magic Circle.
Body Round 1: Ch 1.
Make 10 hdc into the Magic Circle.
(10 sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts).
Pull the Magic Circle tight to close.
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Body Round 2: Ch 1. Reminder: never turn.
(Reminder: always work into the first st).
*In the next st, make 2 hdc.
In the next st, hdc.*
Repeat from * to * around. (15 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
If necessary, adjust your work so the right side/front of your work is facing you.
Body Round 3: Ch 1.
*In the next st, 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 2 sts.*
Repeat from * to * around. (20 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Weave in the starting tail.
Body Round 4: Ch 1.
*In the next st, 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 3 sts.*
Repeat from * to * around. (25 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Body Round 5: Ch 1.
*In the next st, 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 4 sts.*
Repeat from * to * around. (30 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Body Round 6: Ch 1.
Hdc in each st around. (30 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Body Round 7: Ch 1.
*Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.
Hdc in the next 4 sts.*
Repeat from * to * around. (25 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first st to join.
Body Round 8: Ch 1.
*Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.
Hdc in the next 3 sts.*
Repeat from * to * around. (20 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first st to join.
Body Round 9: Ch 1.
*Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.
Hdc in the next 2 sts.*
Repeat from * to * around. (15 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first st to join.
Do not fasten off.
Attach safety eyes on the front of the Body between Body Rounds 6 and 7, with approx. 6 sts between the two eyes.
Fill the Body with stuffing (use little pieces at a time and do not over-stuff).

Body Round 10: Ch 1.
*Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.
In the next st, hdc.*
Repeat from * to * around. (10 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first st to join.
Body Round 11: Ch 1.
*Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.*
Repeat from * to * around. (5 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first st to join.
Fasten off, leaving an 8” ending tail. Using a yarn needle and the 8” ending tail, sew the sts together and close the gap. Weave in the loose end.

Octopus Legs Instructions
Use the same color that you used for the body.
Leg Start: Make a Magic Circle.
Leg Round 1: Ch 1.
Make 4 hdc into the Magic Circle. (4 sts).
Pull the Magic Circle tight to close.
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Leg Round 2: Ch 1.
In the first st, make 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 3 sts.
(5 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
If necessary, adjust your work so the right side/front of your work is facing you.
Leg Round 3: Ch 1.
In the first st, make 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 4 sts.
(6 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Weave in the starting tail.

Leg Round 4: Ch 1.
Hdc in each st around. (6 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Leg Rounds 5 & 6: Repeat Leg Round 4.
Leg Round 7: Ch 1.
In the first st, make 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 5 sts.
(7 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Leg Round 8: Ch 1.
Hdc in each st around. (7 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Leg Round 9: Ch 1.
In the first st, make 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 6 sts.
(8 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Leg Round 10: Ch 1.
Hdc in each st around. (8 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Leg Round 11: Ch 1.
In the first st, make 2 hdc.
Hdc in the next 7 sts.
(9 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Leg Round 12: Ch 1.
Hdc in each st around. (9 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
Fasten off, leaving a 12” ending tail. Fill the leg with stuffing (use little pieces at a time and do not over-stuff). Make 8 legs in total.
ATTACH THE LEGS
Using the 12” ending tail and a yarn needle, sew each leg to the body. I layered 7 legs to the Body Rounds 9 – 10 and attached 1 leg to Body Round 11.
Weave in all loose ends.

Top Hat Instructions
Use the color you would like for the hat.
Hat Start: Make a Magic Circle.
Hat Round 1: Ch 1.
Make 10 hdc into the Magic Circle. (10 sts).
Pull the Magic Circle tight to close.
Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.
For Hat Round 2, you will be working into the back loops only (BLO), which are the loops furthest away from you.
Hat Round 2: Ch 1. Reminder: never turn.
Reminder: always work into the first st.
Sc in the BLO of each st around. (10 sts).
Sl st into both loops of the top of the first sc to join (work in both loops from now on).
If necessary, adjust your work so the right side/front of your work is facing you. The right side/front of Hat Round 1 will be on the outside of that hat.
Hat Round 3: Ch 1.
Sc in each st around. (10 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.
Weave in the starting tail.
Hat Round 4: Repeat Hat Round 3.
For Hat Round 5, you will be working into the front loops only (FLO), which are the loops closest to you.
Hat Round 5: Ch 1.
*In the FLO of the next st, make 2 sc.
In the FLO of the next st, sc.*
Repeat from * to * around. (15 sts).
Sl st into both loops of the top of the first sc to join (work into both loops from now on).
Hat Round 6: Ch 1.
*In the next st, make 2 sc.
Sc in the next 2 sts.*
Repeat from * to * around. (20 sts).
Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.
Fasten off, leaving a 12” ending tail. Note: I did not use stuffing for the hat.

ATTACH THE HAT
Using the 12” ending tail and a yarn needle, sew the hat to the top of the Body. I attached the hat by sewing the sts from the last round of the hat to the Body Rounds 1 – 4 on an angle.
Weave in the loose end.

Bow Instructions
Use the color you would like for the bow.
Bow Start: Ch 10.
Bow Row 1: In the second ch from the hook, sc.
Sc in each ch across.
(9 sc sts).
Bow Row 2: Ch 1 and turn.
Sc in each st across.
(9 sc sts).
Bow Rows 3 – 6: Repeat Bow Row 2.
After Row 6, work should measure approx. 1.5” high and 2.5” wide. (To make the bow a different size, make more or less starting chains).
Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Pinch the middle of your work. With a new strand of yarn from your skein, leave an 8” starting tail and place the strand over the middle of the bow. Wrap the yarn around the middle approx. 20 times, spreading it out so it spans 0.5”. Fasten off, leaving a 12” ending tail.
Tie the starting and ending tails in a knot at the back of the bow. Weave in the starting tail.

ATTACH THE BOW
Using the 12” ending tail and a yarn needle, sew the bow to the top of the Body.I attached the bow in between Body Rounds 3 & 4 on an angle.
Weave in the loose end.

And now you have a new octopus!
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