ABOUT THIS CROCHET GLASSES HOLDER PATTERN
- The pattern includes instructions on how to make the crochet glasses case fit both small and large glasses.
- You can use this crochet glasses case for sunglasses, reading glasses and eyeglasses.
- It works up really quickly and uses only a quarter of skein of yarn.
- If you are concerned about the yarn scratching your glasses, you could sew on a fabric lining.
This Glasses Case Crochet Pattern is written in English for right-handed crochet using standard US crochet terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terminology, check out my US to UK Conversion Chart.
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Crochet Glasses Case Pattern Details
Finished case is 7″ wide. Height can be made small: 3” or large: 3.5”. The case fits glasses with a max width of 1.75” (when glasses are folded together).
4″ x 4″ of hdc stitches (made as a flat swatch – not in the round) = 14 hdc and 10 rows
Yarn: 80 yds. / 74 m of any worsted weight (4) yarn. I used Loops & Threads Impeccable Yarn, Solid. Color: Lapis. This yarn is medium (4) weight and 100% acrylic. The size is 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. A skein is 285 yd./260m and you need a quarter of a skein.
Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.
Other Materials: yarn needle, 2 stitch markers, scissors, measuring tape, thread, sewing needle and one 7/8″ / 2.25 cm button.
st = stitch
sts = stitches
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
YO = yarn over
BLO = back loops only
Crochet Glasses Holder PATTERN NOTES:
- The case is made from the bottom up.
- Always start a row or a round in the same stitch as the chain (unless instructed not to).
- Chains never count as stitches.
- On the flap, if you find there is an unwanted gap between the first star and the chain sts, you can mend it after the flap is completed using a yarn needle and yarn to make the gap less noticeable.
- There are instructions for small and large glasses. Most glasses should fit in the small instructions. As a reference, my Ray Ban aviators which measure 5.75” x 2” fit in the small glasses case.
Please note: This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be copied, shared, altered or sold on your own. You are welcome to sell the finished product but please include a link (if online) and reference jototheworld.com.
Crochet Glasses Case Pattern Instructions
Glasses Case Body
With H/8 (5.00 mm) hook, ch 24.
Round 1: In 3rd ch from hook, hdc in top loop of the ch (Interweave has a great diagram of where the top loop is here). Hdc in top loop of next 20 chains. In last ch, 3 hdc into same ch. Continue working along the other side. Working along the other side, hdc in the next 20 gaps.
In the last gap, 3 hdc into same gap. (47 sts). Sk the 2 chain sts and sl st into top of 1st hdc.
Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Hdc in the BLO (the loop furthest away from you) of each st around (60 sts – an extra st will be made). Sl st into both loops of the top of 1st hdc to join. (Work i
Ch 1 and turn. Hdc in the BLO (the loop furthest away from you) of each st around (48 sts – an extra st will be made). Sl st into both loops of the top of 1st hdc to join. (Work in both loops from now on).
Measure: your work should be approx. 6”
Round 3: Ch 2. Do not turn. Hdc in each st around. (48 sts). Sl st into top of 1st hdc to join.
Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sk 1st st (the st attached to ch). Hdc in next st and in each st around. Hdc into the st that was skipped at the beginning of the round by working over the chain. If you need help understanding how to work over the chain, here’s a video showing how (at the 1:20 mark). (48 sts). Sl st into top of 1st hdc to join.
Round 5: Repeat Round 3.
Round 6: Repeat Round 4.
Measure: your work should be 6.5” x 2.25”.
For small glasses, you can stop here (but don’t fasten off) and start the flap.
For large glasses, repeat Round 3 and Round 4 again. Do not fasten off.
Glasses Case Flap
*Note: you will be turning and making 22 hdc sts across the most centered sts across the row (the back of the Glasses Case body). Use stitch markers to note where those 22 most centered sts start and end to ensure they are centered. The goal is to find out where you should start the 1st hdc. You can sl st in either direction to arrive at that 1st hdc. If you need to sl st left (continuing in your current direction before turning), sl st as needed then ch 1 and turn and begin your hdcs. If you need to sl st right (the opposite from your current direction), ch 1 and turn, sl st as needed then ch 1 and begin your hdcs. If no sl sts are needed, ch 1 and turn and begin your hdcs.
Row 1: See note above. Hdc into the next 22 sts (22 sts)
Starting Star: Ch 3 and turn. Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook and pull through loop (2 loops on hook). Insert hook into next ch and pull through loop (3 loops on hook). Insert hook into 1st st and pull through loop (4 loops on hook). Insert hook into next st and pull through loop (5 loops on hook). Insert hook into next st and pull through loop (6 loops on hook). YO and pull yarn through all 6 loops. Ch 1 to complete the 1st star.
Regular Star (the image below shows exact locations): Insert hook into the ch 1 space that you just created (the eye of the star) and pull through loop (2 loops on hook). The star you just created has 6 “spikes,” with the 1st spike being closest to the top. Insert your hook in between the 5th and 6th spike and pull through loop (3 loops on hook). The 6th spike is attached to the next st. Insert your hook into the st attached to 6th spike and pull through loop (4 loops on hook). Insert hook into next st and pull through loop (5 loops on hook). Insert hook into next st and pull through loop (6 loops on hook). YO and pull yarn through all 6 loops. Ch 1 to complete the star.
Repeat Regular Star instructions 8 more times across row (10 stars made in total – 1 starting star and 9 regular stars). 2 hdc in the last st.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Hdc in the 1st st. 2 hdc into the eye of the each star across. Hdc into the last st (22 sts).
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Row 5: Repeat Row 3.
For small glasses, you can stop here and fasten off, weave in loose ends and start the flap border.
For large glasses, repeat Row 2 and 3 again. Fasten off and weave in loose ends.
Glasses Case Flap Border:
With the front of the glasses case body facing down and the flap up (with the right side facing up), attach a new strand of yarn with a sl st to the top left corner where the flap meets the glasses case body (into Row 1 of the Glasses Case Flap – the row of hdc sts).
Left Side of Flap Border: Work down the side of the flap. Tip: make your stitches very loose. *In the space between the row of hdc and the star, (sc, sl st) into the same space. In the space after the star and before the row of hdc, (sc, sl st) into the same space.*
For Small Glasses, repeat from * to * a total of 2 times (8 sts).
For Large Glasses, repeat from * to * a total of 3 times (12 sts).
In the corner st, 3 sc into same st (ensure that it’s an hdc you are working in, not the sl st where you just fastened off). Do not fasten off.
Bottom of Flap Border: Work along the bottom. *Sk next st. (Sc, sl st) into next st.* Repeat from * to * a total of 5 times (10 sts). Ch 3 (this makes room for the button) and sk next st. *(Sc, sl st) into next st. Sk next st.* Repeat from * to * a total of 4 times (8 sts). Sl st into next st. In corner st, 3 sc into same st. Do not fasten off.
Right Side of Flap Border: Work up side of flap. Do not work in the spaces. Work into one or two loops of the stitches (either chains or hdcs) along the ends evenly. (Sc, sl st) into same st up the side 2 times per row.
For Small Glasses, a total of 4 times (8 sts). For Large Glasses, a total of 6 times (12 sts).
Sl st into row of hdc to join. Fasten off and weave in loose ends.
Sew on Button
With thread and a sewing needle, attach button in the center of the 3rd row of hdc sts (counted from the bottom).
And that’s it! Now you have a fantastic new glasses case! I hope you enjoyed making this pattern.
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