Men’s Slipper Socks – Free Crochet Pattern

Men’s Crochet Slipper Socks

If you are looking to make a pair of cozy crochet slipper socks for men, you have come to the right place!

This men’s crochet slipper sock pattern includes instructions for three sizes of men’s feet. There is also a section at the end with instructions for adjusting the size to ensure a perfect fit.

This pattern is designed for men’s feet. If you are looking for crochet slipper socks for women, check out my matching Crochet Slipper Socks Pattern for Women, which includes a step-by-step video tutorial. The instructions for the women’s slipper socks are quite similar and video tutorial for the women’s slipper socks can help if you have any questions when making these slipper socks for men.

My husband absolutely loves these socks. They are warm and cozy yet still breathable. They are also very quick to crochet. You can make a sock in approximately 1 hour. At that speed, you can make several pairs in a very short time for every man in your life!

View the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern for keep scrolling down to view all the details and the written instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

There are instructions for three sizes:

• Small: Men’s US Shoe Sizes: 6-7 / Foot Length: 9” – 9.75”.
• Medium: Men’s US Shoe Sizes: 8-10 /Foot Length: 10” – 10.75”.
• Large: Men’s US Shoe Sizes: 11-14 / Foot Length: 11” – 12”.

These socks are designed to be roomy. Instructions for adjusting the size/fit are included at the end of the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 6 (super bulky) yarn in two colors. For two socks, you will need (in total) approx.: 

• Color A (the toe, heel and top) – All Sizes: 80 yds.
• Color B (the sock body): Small: 140 yds, Medium: 150 yds and Large: 160 yds. 

I used Sweet Snuggles Lite by Loops & Threads in the colors “Silver” for Color A and “Country Blue” for Color B. (Some pictures show the sock made with “White” for Color A and “Silver” for Color B). This yarn is size 6 (super bulky) and 100% polyester. A skein is 218 yds / 200 m and 8.8 oz / 250 g.

Crochet Hook Size: K/10.5 (6.50 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, a stitch marker and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• hdc = half double crochet
• hdc2tog = half double crochet two together
• RS = right side (front/outside)
• WS = wrong side (back/inside)
• reverse sl st = reverse slip stitch 

Gauge

After Round 2, work should measure 3” across. Sizing is very important and measurements are provided throughout the pattern. If at any point your work does not match the measurements provided, start again with a different hook. Different brands of size 6 (super bulky) yarn can vary significantly in size and you may need to go up or down several hook sizes. 

Pattern Notes

• This slipper sock is made from the toe up. There are three sections: toe, heel and leg. The rounds/rows reset for each section but do not fasten off.
• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Always work into the first stitch, which is the stitch attached to the chain. When the instructions for the beginning of the round or row say “next st,” work into the first stitch.
• You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch made in each round.
• Change colors when instructed by placing the new color on your hook and pulling it through the loop of the current color on your hook. Pull all strands tight. Fasten off the old color. Begin the next round/row with the new color. Continue using the same color until instructed to change.
• You can weave your ends in at any point or weave them in at the end.

Disclaimer: these slipper socks can be slippery. Please use caution or wear with slippers/shoes when walking on uncarpeted surfaces. Jo to the World Creations is not liable for any accident or incident caused by wearing products made from my patterns. 

Joining Explanation

Rounds are joined with a reverse slip stitch for smoother-looking color changes and to ensure there isn’t a large gap when joining. This joining reverse slip stitch does not count as a stitch and never gets worked into. 

Here’s how to “reverse sl st in the first st to join”: After your last stitch of the round, withdraw hook from your work, leaving the loops as is. Insert your hook from back to front into the first stitch made in the round. Place the loop back on your hook and pull the loop through the stitch (towards the inside of your work). Pull the yarn tight. The first stitch of the next round, which you will work into, is the same stitch that you just made your reverse slip stitch into. 

Stitch Explanation

Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog): In case making an hdc2tog is new to you, when the instructions say: “over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog,” it means: Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the next stitch (the first of two stitches). YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the next stitch (the second of two stitches). YO and pull up a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the five loops on your hook. This completed hdc2tog counts as one stitch. 

Color Legend

Color A is used for the toe, the heel and the top. Color B is used for the slipper sock body.

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How to Crochet the Men’s Slipper Socks (Pattern Instructions)

Toe Instructions

Toe Start – All Sizes: With Color A, make a Magic Circle. Reminder: continue using the same color until instructed to change colors.

Toe Round 1 (RS) – All Sizes: Ch 1. Make 12 hdc into the Magic Circle. (12 hdc sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts). Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. Reverse sl st in the first st to join. 

Toe Round 2 (RS) – All Sizes: Ch 1. Do not turn. (Reminder: always work into the first st). 

Make 2 hdc in each st around. (24 hdc sts). 

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

After Toe Round 2, work should measure 3” across. Reminder: if your work doesn’t match the measurements provided, start again with a different hook size. 

Toe Round 3 (RS) – All Sizes: Ch 1. Do not turn. 

Hdc in each st around. (24 hdc sts). 

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Toe Round 4 (RS) – All Sizes: Change to Color B. Reminder: when changing colors, always fasten off the old color.

Repeat Toe Round 3.

After Toe Round 4, work (when folded) should measure 5” wide and 2.75” high.

Toe Rounds 5 – 10 – All Sizes: Repeat Toe Round 3. 

After Toe Round 10, work (when folded) should measure: 5” wide and 6.5” high.

For the small size, proceed to the heel instructions. 

Toe Round 11 (RS) – Medium & Large: Repeat Toe Round 3. 

After Toe Round 11, work (when folded) should measure: 5” wide and 7” high.

For the medium size, proceed to the heel instructions.

Toe Round 12 (RS) – Large: Repeat Toe Round 3. 

After Toe Round 12, work (when folded) should measure 5” wide and 7.5” high. 

Proceed to the heel instructions.

Heel Instructions – All Sizes

The rest of the pattern is the same for all sizes. 

Heel Row 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

Hdc in the next 12 sts. (12 hdc sts). 

Leave the rest of the sts in the round unworked. 

For the rest of the heel, you will chain 1 and turn at the beginning of each row. On wrong side (WS) rows, the back/inside of your work will be facing you. On right side (RS) rows, the front/outside of your work will be facing you.

Heel Row 2 (WS): Change to Color A. Ch 1 and turn. Hdc in each st across. (12 hdc sts). 

Heel Row 3 (RS): Ch 1 and turn. 

Hdc in each st across. (12 hdc sts).

Heel Rows 4 – 7: Repeat Heel Row 3.

After Heel Row 7, the heel should measure 5” wide and 4.5” high/away from the toe section. 

Leg Instructions – All Sizes

Leg Round 1 (RS): Change to Color B. Ch 1. Do not turn. 

SIDE (DOWN): Working down the side of the heel into the end of every row made in the heel with Color A, make 1 hdc. Into the end of the last row (the first row made in the heel with Color B), make 2 hdc. (8 hdc sts made down the heel).

When working down and up the heel, work into the sts/chs at the end of the row and work into two loops (not into spaces around the sts). Exact st placement is not important.

BOTTOM: Working into the unworked sts from the last round of the toe section, hdc in the next 12 sts. 

SIDE (UP): Work up the side of the heel. Into the end of the first row (the first row made in the heel with Color B), make 2 hdc. Into the end of every row made in the heel with Color A, make 1 hdc. (8 hdc sts made up the heel).

TOP: Working across the top into the sts from the last row of the heel, hdc in the next 12 sts. 

(40 hdc sts). 

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

Hdc in the next 5 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 10 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 17 sts.

(36 hdc sts).

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 3 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

Hdc in the next 4 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 9 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 15 sts.

(32 hdc sts).

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 4 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

Hdc in the next 3 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 8 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 13 sts.

(28 hdc sts).

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 5 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

Hdc in the next 3 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 8 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 13 sts.

(26 hdc sts).

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 6 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn.

Hdc in each st around.

(26 hdc sts).

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 7 (RS): Repeat Leg Round 6. 

Leg Round 8 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn.

In the first st, make 2 hdc.

Hdc in the next 12 sts.

In the next st, make 2 hdc.

Hdc in the next 12 hdc.

(28 hdc sts).

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 9 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn.

Hdc in each st around. (28 hdc sts).

Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 10 (RS): Change to Color A. Repeat Leg Round 9.

Leg Rounds 11 & 12: Repeat Leg Round 9. 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. Make two socks. 

And now you have new slipper socks for men! 

How to Adjust the Size

Everyone’s feet are different. The finished size also depends on how tightly you crochet and the yarn you use (brands of size 6 yarns can be dramatically different). If you would like to adjust the size of your sock for a better fit, there are several ways to do that:

Adjust the Foot Length: 

If your sock is too small or large between the toe and heel, make more or less rounds during the toe section. Each additional or less round will increase or decrease the foot length by approx. 0.5”. Then follow the rest of the pattern (all instructions and stitch counts remain the same). 

Adjust the Arch Area:

If your sock is too small or large around your foot arch, make more or less stitches at the start in multiples of 2. Each additional or less pair of stitches will increase or decrease the arch area by approx. 1”. You will have a different number of stitches for the rest of the pattern (refer to the General Instructions). 

Adjust the Heel:

If your sock is too small or large at the heel, make 2 more or 2 less rows in the heel section. Each additional or less pair of rows will increase or decrease the heel by approx. 1”. You will have a different number of stitches for the rest of the pattern (refer to the General Instructions).

Adjust the Foot Opening:

If your foot opening is too small (you are having trouble getting your foot into the sock), on Leg Round 5, instead of following the instructions for Leg Round 5, follow the instructions for Leg Round 6 (then complete Leg Round 6 again). This will increase the foot opening by 2 sts, which is approx. 1.” You will have a different number of stitches for the rest of the leg (refer to the General Instructions). 

If your foot opening is too big (and not staying on your ankle), on Leg Round 5, make an extra hdc2tog on each side (the same way you did for Leg Rounds 2-4). This will decrease the foot opening by 2 sts, which is approx. 1.” You will have a different number of stitches for the rest of the leg (refer to the General Instructions).

Adjust the Height of the Leg:

If your sock is too small or large at the leg, repeat Leg Round 6 less or more times.

General Instructions

After adjusting the size, if you have a different number of sts, here are general instructions for making the slipper sock (without the exact number of sts). All the Pattern Notes still apply. 

Toe Start: With Color A, make a Magic Circle.

Toe Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Make any number of hdc sts in multiples of 2 into the Magic Circle. Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Toe Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. Make 2 hdc in each st around. Reverse sl st in the first st to join. 

Toe Round 3 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. Hdc in each st around. Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Toe Round 4 (RS): Change to Color B. Repeat Toe Round 3. 

Toe Rounds 5-11 (or until your desired toe length): Repeat Toe Round 3. You can repeat Toe Round 3 more or less times. 

Heel Row 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. Make 1 hdc in half of your total sts (i.e. 10 of 20 or 15 of 30). Leave the other half of sts unworked. 

Heel Row 2 (WS): Change to Color A. Ch 1 and turn. Hdc in each st across. 

Heel Rows 3 – 7: Repeat Heel Row 2. (You can repeat Heel Row 2 more or less times. End after a RS round). 

Leg Round 1 (RS): Change to Color B. Ch 1. Do not turn. SIDE (DOWN): In the end of each row of the heel, make 1 hdc until the last row of the heel. In the end of the last row, make 2 hdc. BOTTOM: Hdc in each unworked st across the bottom. SIDE (UP): In the end of the first row of the heel, make 2 hdc. In the end of each row of the heel, make 1 hdc. TOP: Hdc in each st across the top. Reverse sl st in the first st to join. 

Leg Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. Hdc in each st down the side until the 4 corner sts (the corner sts are the 4 sts closest to the corner between the side and bottom of the heel). [Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog] x 2. Hdc in each st across the bottom until the next 4 corner sts. [Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog] x 2. Hdc in each remaining st. Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Rounds 3 & 4: Repeat Leg Round 2. 

Leg Round 5 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. Hdc in each st down the side until the 2 corner sts. Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. Hdc in each st across the bottom until the next 2 corner sts. Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. Hdc in each remaining st. Reverse sl st in the first st to join. 

Leg Round 6 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. Hdc in each st around. Reverse sl st in the first st to join.

Leg Round 7 (RS): Repeat Leg Round 6. 

Leg Round 8 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. (To determine how many sts to make, divide your total number of sts by 2. We will call the first half of your sts: half A and the second half of your sts: half B). In the first st of half A, make 2 hdc. Hdc in each remaining st of half A. In the next st (the first st of half B), make 2 hdc. Hdc in each remaining st of half B. 

Leg Round 9 (RS): Repeat Leg Round 6. 

Leg Round 10 (RS): Change to Color A. Repeat Leg Round 6. 

Leg Rounds 11 & 12: Repeat Leg Round 6. 

Fasten off and weave in loose ends. Make two socks. 

I hope you enjoyed making these men’s slipper socks!

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