Small Tote Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

Small Crochet Bag

Looking for a quick and fun crochet bag pattern? You’ll love this easy Small Tote Bag Crochet Pattern! It’s a stylish mini tote that is perfect for carrying all your essentials and makes a great everyday handbag.

Why you’ll love it:

• Compact Size: Ideal for carrying your necessary gear like your phone, wallet, or keys.
• Versatile Design: Make two straps and use it as a tote or make one larger strap and use it as a cross-body bag.
• Durable and Strong: Sturdy stitches ensure the bag can hold up to regular use.
• Stylish and Customizable: Choose your favorite color to match your personal style.

This small tote bag pattern is perfect for beginners and experienced crocheters alike. The entire bag is made with just single crochet and chain stitches!

The simple stitchwork creates a polished, professional-looking bag without any complicated techniques. Plus, the bag works up quickly, making it an excellent option for last-minute gifts or satisfying your urge for an instant craft gratification.

You are welcome to sew on a clasp, a zipper or lining and/or add embellishments to enhance functionality and aesthetics. With this fashionable and durable mini bag, you’ll have a fabulous accessory that’s easy to make and fun to show off.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.

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Easy Small Tote Bag Pattern

This small tote bag pattern is quite similar to my Easy Tote Bag Crochet Pattern, which creates a regular size tote bag.

Over the years, I’ve received requests for a smaller tote bag but with the same look as the Easy Tote Bag and I’m thrilled to share this Small Tote Bag to grant those wishes.

While the bags look very similar, how to crochet the bag body in each pattern is a little different. I’ve tweaked the design slightly to ensure a perfectly straight seam and also to make starting and ending rounds easier. In this Small Tote Bag Crochet Pattern, the bag body is a one-round repeat whereas in the larger Easy Tote Bag Crochet Pattern, the bag body is made with two rounds.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a small tote bag that is approx. 7” high, 11” long and 4” wide with straps that are 10” away from the bag.

Can I make this bag pattern in a different size? At this time, I’ve only designed, made and tested this bag to be this size. You can make the strap(s) any length. If you are looking for patterns for bags/purses in other sizes, check out my other crochet bag patterns. 

Materials

Yarn: Approx. 500 yds in total of any size 4 (medium) yarn (the less stretchy the better).

This pattern is worked with two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern. You will need approx. 2 x 250 yds. You can use two skeins or separate one skein manually to create two skeins that both have approx. 250 yds.

I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads in the color “Soft Taupe.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. I used two skeins in total. 

Crochet Hook: K/10.5 (6.50 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape, a stitch marker and pins. 

Can I make this bag with only one strand of yarn? This bag pattern was designed to be made with two strands of size 4 (medium) yarn held together the entire time. If you use only one strand, the size, look and feel as well as the amount of yarn required will be different. The bag will be much smaller and might also be more flimsy and less sturdy. 

Can I use a different yarn weight or hook size? This bag was designed to be made with size 4 (medium) yarn and a K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook. You are welcome to try something else but the size, overall look and feel of your finished purse as well as the amount of yarn required may be different.  I really wish I could help and tell you how to make it with a different yarn weight and/or hook size but I’ve only designed, made and tested this pattern with the yarn weight and hook size listed and I wouldn’t want to give you inaccurate information. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces 
• sk = skip 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• ch-1 sp = chain 1 space 
• ch-2 sp = chain 2 space
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Gauge

Exact sizing is not important. For reference, after Bag Bottom – Round 2, would should measure 7” long and 1.5” wide. 

Pattern Notes

• Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern, treating them as one strand and crocheting normally. 
• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Always work into the first stitch, the stitch attached to the chain. If the instructions for the beginning of the round say “next st,” work into the first stitch. 
• Always put a stitch marker in the top of the first single crochet stitch of every round to help ensure you start and end in the right place and have the correct number of stitches. 
• If the instructions say “[2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 2,” what this means is to complete the steps in brackets a total of two times (i.e. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.). 

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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How to Crochet the Small Tote Bag

Bag Bottom Instructions

With two strands of yarn held together, leave a 30” starting tail (for both strands) (you can use this tail to fix any gaps along the bottom). Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern.

Bag Bottom – Start: Ch 17.

Bag Bottom – Round 1: 

In the second ch from hook, sc (reminder: always place a stitch marker in the first st). 

Sc in the next 14 chs. 

In the last ch, make 5 sc. 

Working into the chs on the other side: 

Sc in the next 14 chs. 

In the last ch, make 2 sc. 

(36 sc sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Bag Bottom – Round 2: Ch 1. Do not turn.

In the first st, 2 sc. 

Sc in the next 15 sts. 

2 sc in the next 3 sts. 

Sc in the next 15 sts. 

2 sc in the next 2 sts. 

(42 sc sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

After Bag Bottom – Round 2, my work measured approx. 7” long x 1.5” wide. Measurements are referenced throughout the pattern but exact sizing is not important.

Bag Bottom – Round 3: Ch 1. Do not turn.

(Reminder: always work in the first st).

2 sc in the next 2 sts. 

Sc in the next 16 sts. 

2 sc in the next 5 sts. 

Sc in the next 16 sts. 

2 sc in the next 3 sts. 

(52 sc sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Bag Bottom – Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. 

[2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next st.] x 2. 

Sc in the next 16 sts. 

[2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next st.] x 5. 

Sc in the next 16 sts. 

[2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next st.] x 3. 

(62 sc sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

After Bag Bottom – Round 4, my work measured approx. 9” long x 3” wide.

Bag Bottom – Round 5: Ch 1. Do not turn. 

[2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next 2 sts.] x 2. 

Sc in the next 16 sts. 

[2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next 2 sts.] x 5. 

Sc in the next 16 sts. 

[2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next 2 sts.] x 3. 

(72 sc sts). 

Sl st into top of the first sc to join.

Bag Bottom – Round 6: Ch 1. Do not turn.

Sc in the next 5 sts. 

In the next st, 2 sc. 

Sc in the next 21 sts. 

[2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next 5 sts.] x 3. 

Sc in the next 21 sts. 

In the next st, 2 sc. 

Sc in the next 4 sts. 

Sk the last st. 

(76 sc sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

After Bag Bottom – Round 6, my work measured approx. 10.5” long  x 4” wide (4” in the middle and 4.5” on ends).

Bag Bottom – Round 7: Ch 1. Do not turn.

Sc in the back loops only (the loops furthest away from you) of each st around. 

(76 s sts). 

Sl st into both loops of the top of the first sc to join. 

Do not fasten off. The round numbers will now reset to make it easier to count rounds from the bottom up.

Note: As you work on the bag body, you will notice that the right side (the top) of the bottom you just completed will be facing down and will be on the outside bottom of the bag.

Bag Body Instructions

Bag Body – Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

In the first st, sc. Ch 1. Sk the next st.

*In the next st, sc. Ch 1. Sk the next st.*

Repeat from * to * around. 

(38 sc sts and 38 ch-1 sps).

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Note: every time you ch 1 and sk a st, you are creating a “chain one space” (ch-1 sp) that you will work into on the next round.

For the rest of the bag body, you will ch 1 and turn at the start of each round. On even numbered rounds, the WS (inside) of your work will be facing you. On odd numbered rounds, the RS (outside) of your work will be facing you. Turning at the start of each round makes the seam straight.

Bag Body – Round 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn.

In the first ch-1 sp, sc. Ch 1.

*In the next ch-1 sp, sc. Ch 1.*

Repeat from * to * around. 

(38 sc sts and 38 ch-1 sps). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc of the round to join.

Note: every time you ch 1 and sc into a ch-1 sp, you are creating a new ch-1 sp that you will work into on the next round. (When you ch 1 and turn at the start of the round, that does not create a ch-1 sp). 

Bag Body – Round 3 and on: Repeat Bag Body – Round 2 until your bag body measures approx. 7” high, which is approx. 22 rounds in total or until you reach your desired height. You can end after any round.

Once you’ve reached your desired height, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. If you have unwanted gaps/holes along the bottom, you can use the 30” starting tail to fix/tighten any gaps.

Bag Straps Instructions

Bag Strap – Start: (Use two strands of yarn held together). Leave a 24” starting tail (for both strands) and ch 7. 

Bag Strap – Row 1: 

In the third ch from the hook, sc (ch-2 sp created).

Ch 1. Sk the next ch. In the next ch, sc (ch-1 sp created).

Ch 1. Sk the next ch. In the last ch, sc (ch-1 sp created).

(3 sc sts). 

Bag Strap – Row 2: Ch 2 and turn. 

In the first ch-1 sp, sc (new ch-2 sp created). 

Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp (new ch-1 sp created). 

Ch 1. Sc in the last (ch-2) sp (new ch-1 sp created).

(3 sc sts). 

Bag Strap – Row 3 and on: 

Repeat Bag Strap – Row 2 until your strap measures 34” long (approx. 100 rows) or until you reach your desired strap length. You can end after any row. 

After reaching your desired strap length, fasten off, leaving a 24” ending tail (for both strands).

Make two straps. 

Strap Placement

The straps go on the inside of the bag, 4” from the top of the bag body and 2” from each side. There should be a height of approx. 10” away from the bag. 

Attaching the Straps

Turn bag inside out. Pin straps in place.

Using the 24” tails (one strand at a time) and a yarn needle, attach the strap to the inside of the tote bag body, only working into the backs of stitches to ensure yarn does not show through the front. Attach all around.

After the straps are attached, weave in all loose ends.

Cross-Body Bag Strap

I made my bag as a mini tote. To make the bag a cross-body bag, you can make one strap that is approx. 55” long (or your desired strap length). Attach each end of the strap to the inside of the bag on each side approx. 4” away from the top.

And now you have a new small bag!

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