Snowflake Granny Square Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Snowflake Bag

If you’re looking for a beautiful winter crochet project that’s both fun to make and incredibly practical, you’re going to love this Snowflake Granny Square Bag crochet pattern. It’s full of cozy winter charm and features a delicate snowflake motif. It’s a wonderful project to work on during the colder months and a stunning accessory you can use or gift all season long.

This crochet bag looks intricate, but it’s made using simple stitches and an easy construction method that beginners and experienced crocheters will enjoy. Each snowflake granny square is worked individually and then joined together to create a stylish tote bag that’s roomy, sturdy, lightweight, and generously sized. The larger design gives you plenty of space for holiday shopping, carrying your current project, or packing essentials for a cozy winter outing.

To make the process simple and enjoyable, this pattern includes a full step-by-step video tutorial showing exactly how to crochet the squares, join them together, and add the border. The written pattern provides detailed, easy-to-follow instructions, along with clear diagrams outlining every stage of the bag so there’s never any guesswork. Whether it’s your first granny square bag or your hundredth, you’ll have everything you need to create a beautiful, functional tote.

This winter tote bag also works up quickly — you can even complete one in a weekend. It’s a relaxing, enjoyable project that comes together beautifully, and it’s the kind of crochet pattern you’ll want to make again and again.

I hope you enjoy crocheting this cozy Snowflake Granny Square Bag as much as I loved designing it!

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

The skill level is easy to intermediate. 

Size

The finished bag is approx. 18” wide and 18” high.  Each square is 7” x 7” (9” diagonally). 

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn in two colors. You will need approx.:  

• For Color A (snowflakes, joining & border): 440 yds in total. 
  • Squares: 260 yds (20 yds per square).
  • Joining: 30 yds.
  • Border/Strap: 150 yds.  

• For Color B (square backgrounds): 325 yds in total (25 yds per square).

I used Soft Classic yarn by Loops & Threads. This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g. For Color A, I used 2 skeins of “White.” For Color B, I used 1 skein of “Cornflower.”

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm).

Other Materials: Stitch markers, a yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• approx. = approximately
• ch/chs = chain/chains
• ch-1, ch-2, ch-3 sp(s) = chain-one, chain-two, chain-three space(s)
• dc = double crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• sc = single crochet 
• sl st = slip stitch
• sk = skip
• sp/sps = space/spaces 
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• tr = triple/treble crochet

Pattern Overview

1. Make the squares
2. Assemble the squares
3. Join the squares
4. Add the border & strap

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Make More Snowflakes

If you’re loving this snowy theme, you can create a whole matching collection with my other crochet snowflake patterns:

Each snowflake pattern is easy to follow, includes its own step-by-step video tutorial, and is designed to complement the others beautifully as part of a cohesive winter collection. And right now, I have exciting news…

For a limited time, get all four snowflake patterns as printable PDFs for only $9.97! Get the Snowflake Bundle Today!

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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Make the Squares

Square Notes

• The squares are made in the round. Never turn at the start or end of any round. 
• You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch made in every round. 
• When the pattern has instructions in square brackets followed by a “x 7”, this means to complete the instructions in the square brackets a total of 7 times.
• When the pattern has instructions in round brackets, it means to crochet those instructions in the same space. For example, “In the next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc)” means to: make 1 dc, ch 1 and 1 dc, all in the same chain-one space.
• The slip stitch that joins each round never gets worked into or counted as a stitch.

Square Gauge

As long as all your squares are the same size, exact sizing is not important. For reference, after Round 3, your work should measure 3.75” across. 

Square Instructions

Make 13 squares. All squares are made the same way.

The diagrams for the squares show Color A in blue and Color B in green so they are easier to see.

Start: With Color A (the snowflake color), make a Magic Circle. Continue using Color A until instructed to change colors. 

Round 1: Ch 3. 

[In the magic circle, hdc. Ch 1.] x 7 (meaning to complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 7 times). 

Pull the magic circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the ch-3 sp (the sp between the starting ch-3 and the first hdc) to join.

(Stitch count: 7 hdc sts, 1 ch-3 sp and 7 ch-1 sps (the 7 ch-1 sps are the sps under each ch-1))

Round 2: Ch 3. (Reminder: never turn). 

In the ch-3 sp, dc. 

*In the next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st into the ch-3 sp (the sp between the starting ch-3 and the first dc) to join.

(Stitch count: 15 dc sts, 1 ch-3 sp and 7 ch-1 sps (the ch-1 sps are the sps under each ch-1))

Round 3: Ch 2. In the ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 

*In the next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st in the top of the first dc to join.

(Stitch count: 31 dc sts and 8 ch-2 sps (the ch-2 sps are the sps under each ch-2). The starting ch-2 does not create a ch-2 sp.)

Round 4: Sl st into the first ch-2 sp. 

Ch 2. In the same/first ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). 

*In the next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st in the top of the first dc to join.

(Stitch count: 47 dc sts and 8 ch-2 sps. The starting ch-2 does not create a ch-2 sp.)

Fasten off Color A (cut the yarn that is attached to the skein and pull it through the loop that was on your hook). 

For Round 5, when the instructions say to work in the sp between sts, it means to insert your hook in between the posts of the next 2 sts (do not work in the tops of sts). Treat the starting ch-2 from the previous round as a dc st. 

Round 5: Insert your hook into the first ch-2 sp. Place Color B (the background color) on your hook and pull it through the sp. Continue using Color B for the rest of the square. 

Ch 1. 

*In the ch-2 sp, sc. 

In between the next 2 sts, hdc. 

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In the sp between clusters (the groups of 3 dc sts), tr. 

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In between the next 2 sts, dc. 

In the ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In the sp between clusters (the groups of 3 dc sts), tr.

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In between the next 2 sts, hdc.*

Repeat from * to * around. 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

(Stitch count: 60 sts (not counting any chs) and 4 ch-2 sps)

It’s okay if your work looks slightly misshapen after this round. It will be more square after Round 6. 

Round 6: Ch 2. 

Dc in the first 8 sts.

In the ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

[Sk the next st. 

Dc in the next 14 sts.

In the ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).] x 3 (meaning to complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 3 times). 

Sk the next st.

Dc in the last 6 sts.

Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

(Stitch count: 80 sts (not counting any chs) and 4 ch-2 sps)

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Repeat the “Square Instructions” until you’ve made 13 squares in total. 

Blocking

Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. To block your finished squares, pin them on blocking boards with rust-proof pins or use a granny square blocking board, spray them with water and leave them to dry.

Should you block your squares before joining? 

It’s a personal preference. Some people like to block their squares before joining and others prefer to block their finished bag (and some don’t block at all). I blocked all my squares before joining and I blocked my finished bag.

Assemble the Squares

Since all squares are identical, your bag will look the same on the front and back. This pattern frequently references the “front of bag” and “back of bag” to make the instructions easier to follow. 

Assembly – Front of Bag

Five Front Squares: Place five squares down for the front of the bag as shown in the image below. The wrong side (the back) of each square should be facing up. Ensure there are no joining sl sts (the sl st that joined the final round of the square) across the top. Other than that, it doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards.

Sides and Bottom: Place the two side squares and the bottom square down with the wrong sides (the backs) facing up. (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).

Tie/Hold Together: Using stitch markers or any yarn/string, secure the squares together (this is just temporary until you join them). For each corner of the middle square, secure all the squares attached (place markers or weave your yarn with a yarn needle through each square’s ch-2 sp). 

Fold: Fold the side squares and the bottom square in half.

Assembly – Back of Bag

Five Back Squares: Place the five squares for the back of the bag on top of the squares for the front as shown in the image below. The right side (the front) of each square should be facing up. Ensure there are no joining sl sts (the sl st that joined the final round of the square) across the top. Other than that, it doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards.

Tie/Hold Together: Using stitch markers or any yarn/string, secure the squares together (same as you did for the front). 

Optional: secure any other squares/corners.

Assembly – Mark the Front

Mark the Front: Flip the bag over so the front of the bag is facing you. Place a stitch marker in the top left square to identify which side is the front. 

Join the Squares

Joining Notes

• The squares are joined using the flat slip stitch joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
• Use a H/8 (5.00 mm) hook and Color A (I used white) for joining. 
• As you approach the corners where your squares are secured, remove the stitch markers or yarn/string and replace them after working on them (until joining holds the squares in place without them).
• Don’t make your stitches too tight (this is very important!). If necessary, go up a hook size. 
• You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once. 
• Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side (the front) of each square facing up.
• Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
• When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.

Some images/diagrams show a different granny square but the instructions are the same.

• Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left). 
• You will always be working into the outer loops only.  The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square. 

• Do not work into the slip stitch that joined the final round of the square (skip that slip stitch). 

How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch

Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook. 

Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook. 

Step 3: Note:Ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook. 

Your flat slip stitch has now been made.

Joining the next two squares:

After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.

Joining – Columns & Bottom

Instructions for each column and bottom: 

• Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of two chain stitches (leave the first of two chain stitches unworked).
• Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
• Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked). 
• “On the back” means the back of the bag and “on the front” means the front of the bag.

Column 1:

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook. 

• Join Squares F and H (on the back).
• Join Squares L and I (on the back).
• Don’t fasten off. Continue working on the same column but now along the front. 
• Join Squares L and E (on the front). 
• Join Squares B and C (on the front).

Fasten off.

Column 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares G and K (on the back).
• Join Squares H and J (on the back).
• Join Squares I and M (on the back).
• Don’t fasten off. Continue working on the same column but now along the front.
• Join Squares E and M (on the front).
• Join Squares C and D (on the front).
• Join Squares A and K (on the front).

Fasten off. 

Bottom 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares D and J (on the bottom).

Fasten off.

Bottom 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares E and I (on the bottom).

Fasten off.

Joining – Rows

Instructions for each row: 

• The instructions indicate if, at the start, you should work in both of the first two chain stitches or just the second. When working in both, the first has already been worked in but work into it again.
• “Work over columns” means to ignore the column’s join lines. Your row’s stitches will be overtop of the columns. 
• After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches. 
• Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked).

Row 1:

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares H and G (on the back) – At start: work in the second of 2 ch sts. 
• Join Squares J and K (on the back) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 
• Don’t fasten off. Continue working on the same row but now along the front.
• Join Squares D and K (on the front) – At start: work in the second of 2 ch sts. 
• Join Squares C and A (on the front) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 

Fasten off.

Row 2:

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares L and F (on the back) – At start: work only in the second of 2 ch sts. 
• Join Squares I and H (on the back) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 
• Join Squares M and J (on the back) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 
• Do not fasten off. Continue working on the same row but now along the front. 
• Join Squares M and D (on the front) – At start: work in the second of 2 ch sts.
• Join Squares E and C (on the front) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts.
• Join Squares L and B (on the front) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts.

Fasten off.

Do not weave in ends (the ends/tails can be used to fix any gaps). 

Add the Border & Strap

Bag Border & Strap Notes

• This section of the pattern is made in a continuous round. At the start of a round, never turn and never make any chains. You will use a stitch marker to identify the first st of the round. 
• Use a H/8 (5.00 mm) hook and Color A (I used white).
• You can move the stitch marker that is identifying the front but keep it somewhere on the front of the bag for the remainder of the pattern.
• You can use the ends/tails from joining to fix any gaps. 
• A “peak” is the top of a square. A “valley” is the “V” between two squares.

Strap Sizing

In Round 2, you will make a number of chains that will create the strap. The pattern says to chain 80, which creates a strap that is approx. 26” long and is approx. 12” away from the peak of the bag (14” away from the valley). 

You can adjust the size of the strap by making any number of chains (there’s no specific multiple required). 

Border & Strap – Special Stitches

Special sc3tog = Insert hook in the first ch-2 sp. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook into the middle ch-2 sp. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook in the last ch-2 sp. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all three ch-2 sps (two loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook.

Invisible sc3tog = Insert hook in the FLO (the front loop only, which is the loop closest to you) of the next st. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook into the FLO of the next st. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook in the FLO of the next st. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all three sts (two loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook.

Waistcoat sc st = Insert hook in the middle of the “V” of each sc st (in between the two legs of each post). Then complete the sc st as you normally would: yarn over and pull the yarn through the st (two loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook).

Making waistcoat sc sts for the strap will help stop the strap from stretching and curling. 

Bag Border & Strap Instructions

You will attach your yarn on the front of the bag, in the top right square (near where it’s joined with the side square), in the first top st to the left of the 2 ch sts (see image below).

For this round, do not work into any chs (only into ch-2 sps and into the tops of sc sts).  

Round 1: Attach yarn with a sl st. Sc in the same st. Place a stitch marker in the top of that first sc st.

Sc in each st until the first peak (a peak in this round is the ch-2 sp at the top of a square). 

At the first peak, in the ch-2 sp, make 3 sc in the same sp.

Sc in each st until the first valley (a valley in this round is the 3 ch-2 sps). 

At the valley, make a special sc3tog (see “Border & Strap – Special Stitches” above) over the 3 ch-2 sps. 

*Sc in each st until the next peak. 

At the peak, in the ch-2 sp, make 3 sc in the same sp.

Sc in each st until the next valley.

At the valley, make a special sc3tog over the 3 ch-2 sps.*

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round.

Sc in the top of the first sc st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 2: (Reminder: Don’t turn or make any chs).

Sc in the next st. Place a stitch marker in that first st. 

*Sc in each st until the peak (the 3 sc made in the ch-2 sp from the previous round).

At the peak, sc in the next 2 sts (the first and second of 3 sc sts made in the ch-2 sp from the previous round).

Ch 80 (or your desired number of chs for the strap).

Ensure the completed chs are not twisted and attach the strap (the chs) to the top of the next square (see image below) by making a sc in the third of 3 sc sts made in the ch-2 sp from the previous round.

Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog (see “Border & Strap – Special Stitches” above) over the 3 valley sts.*

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round. (Repeating the steps from * to * creates the second strap). 

Sc in the top of the first st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 3: Sc in next st. Place a stitch marker in that first st. 

*Sc in each st until the strap (the 80 chs). 

Working into the back ridge loops of each ch, sc VERY loosely in each ch across the strap. 

When back at the bag border, sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.*

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round.

Sc in the top of the first st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker). 

Round 4: Sc in the next st. Place a stitch marker in that first st. 

*Sc in each st until the strap. 

At the strap, make a waistcoat sc st (see “Border & Strap – Special Stitches” above) in each st across the strap.

When back at the bag border, return to making regular sc sts.

Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.* 

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round.

Sc in the top of the first st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 5: Repeat Round 4. 

At the end of Round 5, sl st to join and fasten off. Alternatively, you can use the invisible join technique to join, which includes fastening off (the video tutorial for this pattern shows how to do the invisible join technique).

Bag Border & Strap – Front Inside

With the front of the bag facing you, attach yarn under the strap on the right side on the third of 3 sc sts (see image below). 

Round 1: Attach yarn with a sl st. Sc in the same st. Place a stitch marker in that first sc st.

Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley). 

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap.

Working into both loops of each ch st, sc VERY loosely in each ch across the strap.

When back at the bag border, sc in the next st (the st with the stitch marker. Place the stitch marker in that new st).

Round 2: Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap.

At the strap, make a waistcoat sc st in each st across the strap. 

When back at the bag body, make a regular sc in the next st (the st with the stitch marker. Place the stitch marker in that new st). 

Round 3: Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap.

At the strap, make a waistcoat sc st in each st across the strap. 

When back at the bag body, make a regular sc in the next st (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 4: Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley). 

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap. 

Leave the rest of the sts in the round unworked. 

Sl st to join and fasten off. Alternatively, you can use the invisible join technique to join, which includes fastening off.

Bag Border & Strap – Back Inside

With the back of the bag facing you, attach yarn under the strap on the right side on the third of 3 sc sts (see image below). 

Repeat Rounds 1 – 4 for the Front Inside Border & Strap for the back of the bag. 

Weave in all loose ends. Fix any gaps by sewing over them with the tails.

And now you have a snowflake granny square bag! 

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