Snowflake Granny Square Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Winter & Christmas Blanket

Bring a touch of winter magic to your home with this Snowflake Granny Square Blanket crochet pattern. Featuring gorgeous snowflake granny squares joined together to create a stunning blanket, this surprisingly simple pattern is both elegant and cozy.

It’s easy to make yet looks beautifully intricate — the kind of project that’s relaxing to crochet and makes a wonderful handmade gift for the holidays or all winter long.

This is one of my absolute favorite crochet blanket patterns. I loved crocheting it so much that I made it three times!

• As a classic, cozy Winter Snowflake Blanket
• As a festive, merry Christmas Snowflake Blanket
• As a soft, snuggly Snowflake Blanket made with plush chenille yarn

Each style uses the same snowflake granny square design and I’ve included all the details to make each one, so you can easily replicate your favorite.

Whether you’re making it as a decorative throw, a holiday heirloom, or a cozy winter blanket to snuggle under, this pattern is sure to become your go-to winter or Christmas blanket.

No matter if it’s your first or hundredth granny square blanket, you’ll be able to easily follow along. The pattern includes detailed, easy-to-follow written instructions with diagrams illustrating how to make the blanket from start to finish. Plus, there’s a comprehensive step-by-step video tutorial!

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.

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Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

The skill level for this pattern is easy to intermediate.

Size

Making 25 squares creates a blanket that is approximately 35” x 35” without the border (36” x 36” with the border). 

Each completed square is 7” x 7” (9” diagonally). To adjust the size of the blanket, make more or less squares.

Materials

Yarn: You can use any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approximately:  

• For Color A (snowflakes, joining & border): 625 yds in total. 
  • Squares: 500 yds (20 yds per square).
  • Joining: 50 yds.
  • Border: 75 yds.  

• For Color B (square backgrounds): 625 yds in total (25 yds per square).

See the “Blanket Styles” section below for additional yarn details including the yarn I used and how to make  this blanket in Christmas colors or with soft chenille-style yarn.

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm) for the entire pattern.

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, a stitch marker and a measuring tape.

Blanket Styles

You can make this blanket in many styles, from classic to festive to soft and plush, using any size 4 (medium) yarn. Below are the yarn details and the approximate amounts of yarn required for each version so you can choose the look you love best.

Winter Snowflake Blanket

Made with Soft Classic yarn by Loops & Threads.

• Color A: “White” – 2 skeins.
• Color B: “Cornflower” – 2 skeins. 

This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g.

Christmas Snowflake Blanket

Made with Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads.

• Color A: “White” – 3 skeins.
• Color B: You’ll make 13 squares with green yarn and 12 squares with red yarn. I used:
  • “Dark Emerald” (green) – 2 skeins 
  • “Cherry” (red) – 2 skeins

This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. 

Soft Snowflake Blanket

Made with Skinny Chenille yarn by Loops & Threads.

• Color A: “Swan” – 2 skeins.
• Color B: “Seal” – 2 skeins.

This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% polyester. A skein is 524 yds / 480 m and 8.75 oz / 250 g.

Similar brands of this type of yarn include Petite Purl by Loops & Threads and Bernat Baby Velvet. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• ch-1, ch-2, ch-3 sp(s) = chain one, chain two, chain three space(s)
• dc = double crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• sc = single crochet 
• sl st = slip stitch
• sk = skip
• sp/sps = space/spaces 
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• tr = triple/treble crochet

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Make More Snowflakes!

If you’re loving this snowy theme, you can create a whole matching collection with my other crochet snowflake patterns:

Each snowflake pattern is easy to follow, includes its own step-by-step video tutorial, and is designed to complement the others beautifully as part of a cohesive winter collection. And right now, I have exciting news…

For a limited time, get all four snowflake patterns as printable PDFs for only $9.97! Get the Snowflake Bundle Today!

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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Pattern Overview

1. Make the Squares
2. Assemble the Squares
3. Join the Squares
4. Add the Border

Make the Squares

Square Notes

• The squares are made in the round. Never turn at the start or end of any round. 
• You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch made in every round. 
• When the pattern has instructions in square brackets followed by a “x 7”, this means to complete the instructions in the square brackets a total of 7 times.
• When the pattern has instructions in round brackets, it means to crochet those instructions in the same space. For example, “In the next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc)” means to: make 1 dc, ch 1 and 1 dc, all in the same chain-one space.
• The slip stitch that joins each round never gets worked into or counted as a stitch.

Square Gauge

As long as all your squares are the same size, exact sizing is not important. For reference, after Round 3, your work should measure 3.75” across. 

Square Instructions

Make 25 squares.

For Color A (the snowflake color), I used white. 

For Color B (the background color), I used:

• Winter Snowflake Blanket – blue.
• Christmas Snowflake Blanket – 13 squares with green & 12 squares with red.
• Soft Snowflake Blanket – grey.

The diagrams for the squares show Color A in blue and Color B in green so they are easier to see.

Start: With Color A (the snowflake color), make a Magic Circle. Continue using Color A until instructed to change colors. 

Round 1: Ch 3. 

[In the magic circle, hdc. Ch 1.] x 7 (meaning to complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 7 times). 

Pull the magic circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the ch-3 sp (the sp between the starting ch-3 and the first hdc) to join.

(Stitch count: 7 hdc sts, 1 ch-3 sp and 7 ch-1 sps (the 7 ch-1 sps are the sps under each ch-1))

Round 2: Ch 3. (Reminder: never turn). 

In the ch-3 sp, dc. 

*In the next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st into the ch-3 sp (the sp between the starting ch-3 and the first dc) to join.

(Stitch count: 15 dc sts, 1 ch-3 sp and 7 ch-1 sps (the ch-1 sps are the sps under each ch-1.))

Round 3: Ch 2. In the ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 

*In the next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st in the top of the first dc to join.

(Stitch count: 31 dc sts and 8 ch-2 sps (the ch-2 sps are the sps under each ch-2). The starting ch-2 does not create a ch-2 sp.)

Round 4: Sl st into the first ch-2 sp. 

Ch 2. In the same/first ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). 

*In the next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st in the top of the first dc to join.

(Stitch count: 47 dc sts and 8 ch-2 sps. The starting ch-2 does not create a ch-2 sp.)

Fasten off Color A (cut the yarn that is attached to the skein and pull it through the loop that was on your hook). 

For Round 5, when the instructions say to work in the sp between sts, it means to insert your hook in between the posts of the next 2 sts (do not work in the tops of sts). Treat the starting ch-2 from the previous round as a dc st. 

Round 5: Insert your hook into the first ch-2 sp. Place Color B (the background color) on your hook and pull it through the sp. Continue using Color B for the rest of the square. 

Ch 1. 

*In the ch-2 sp, sc. 

In between the next 2 sts, hdc. 

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In the sp between clusters (the groups of 3 dc sts), tr. 

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In between the next 2 sts, dc. 

In the ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In the sp between clusters (the groups of 3 dc sts), tr.

In between the next 2 sts, dc.

In between the next 2 sts, hdc.*

Repeat from * to * around. 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

(Stitch count: 60 sts (not counting any chs) and 4 ch-2 sps)

It’s okay if your work looks slightly misshapen after this round. It will be more square after Round 6. 

Round 6: Ch 2. 

Dc in the first 8 sts.

In the ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

[Sk the next st. 

Dc in the next 14 sts.

In the ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).] x 3 (meaning to complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 3 times). 

Sk the next st.

Dc in the last 6 sts.

Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

(Stitch count: 80 sts (not counting any chs) and 4 ch-2 sps)

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Blocking

Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. To block your finished squares, pin them on blocking boards with rust-proof pins or use a granny square blocking board, spray them with water and leave them to dry.

Should you block your squares before joining? 

It’s a personal preference. Some people like to block their squares before joining and others prefer to block their finished blanket (and some don’t block at all). I blocked all my squares before joining and I blocked my finished blanket.

Assemble the Squares

Lay your squares out with the right side/front of each square facing up as shown in the images below. (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).

Place a stitch marker in the bottom left square’s ch-2 sp (the ch-2 sp on the bottom left corner) – this helps you remember the starting square (square A). 

Join the Squares

Joining Notes

• Use Color A for joining (I used white). 
• The squares are joined using the flat slip stitch joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
• You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once. 
• Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side/front of each square facing up.
• Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
• When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.

Some images/diagrams show a different granny square but the instructions are the same.

• Don’t make your stitches too tight (this is very important!). If necessary, go up a hook size. 
• Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left). 
• You will always be working into the outer loops only.  The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square. 

• Do not work into the slip stitch that joined the final round of the square (skip that slip stitch). 

How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch

Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook. 

Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook. 

Step 3: Note: Ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook. 

Your flat slip stitch has now been made.

Joining the next two squares:

After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.

Joining Overview

First, the squares are joined vertically by joining the squares in Column 1, then Column 2, Column 3 and Column 4 (and any more columns if applicable). 

Second, the squares are joined horizontally by joining the squares in Row 1, then Row 2, Row 3, and Row 4 (and any more rows if applicable). 

You will start each column and row with new yarn by making a slip knot and placing it on your hook. At the end of each column and row, you will fasten off.

The instructions for joining squares are the same whether you’ve made your square backgrounds all one color or alternated background colors.

The join lines on the blanket look slightly different on the front and back: 

Joining – Columns

Instructions for Each Column:

• Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of the two chain stitches (leave the first of the two chain stitches unworked).
• Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
• Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of the two chain stitches (leave the second of the two chain stitches unworked). 

Column 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares B and A.

Join Squares G and F.

Join Squares L and K.

Join Squares Q and P.

Join Squares V and U. 

Fasten off. 

Column 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares C and B.

Join Squares H and G.

Join Squares M and L.

Join Squares R and Q.

Join Squares W and V. 

Fasten off. 

Column 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares D and C.

Join Squares I and H.

Join Squares N and M.

Join Squares S and R.

Join Squares X and W. 

Fasten off. 

Column 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares E and D.

Join Squares J and I.

Join Squares O and N.

Join Squares T and S.

Join Squares Y and X.

Fasten off. 

Joining – Rows

Instructions for Each Row:

• When joining the first two squares of a row, work in the second of the first two chain stitches. For all other squares in the row, you will work over the columns (meaning your row’s stitches will be overtop the columns) and work into both of the first two chain stitches (the first chain will have already been worked in but work into it again). 
• After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches. 
• Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of the two chain stitches (leave the second of the two chain stitches unworked).

Row 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares A and F (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts). 
• Join Squares B and G (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts). 
• Join Squares C and H.
• Join Squares D and I.
• Join Squares E and J.

Fasten off.

Row 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares F and K (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares G and L (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares H and M.
• Join Squares I and N. 
• Join Squares J and O.

Fasten off.

Row 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares K and P (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares L and Q (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares M and R.
• Join Squares N and S. 
• Join Squares O and T. 

Fasten off.

Row 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares P and U (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares Q and V (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares R and W.
• Join Squares S and X. 
• Join Squares T and Y. 

Fasten off. Don’t weave in your loose ends from joining yet. The tails can be used to fix any gaps between the join lines and border.

Add the Border

Border Instructions

Use Color A (I used white) for the entire border. 

Border Round 1: With the right side/front of the blanket facing you, insert your hook into the starting square’s corner ch-2 sp (the sp with the stitch marker – you can now remove the marker). Place Color A on your hook and pull it through the sp. Ch 1. In the same ch-2 sp, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sc in the top of each dc st around. 

• Do not work into the slip stitch that joined the final round of the square (skip that slip stitch).
• When approaching where two squares were joined, don’t work into the ch-2 sps:
  • For the first square: make 1 sc in the front loop only of the first ch (the unworked first ch from the ch-2 sp). Sk the second ch.
  • Sk the join line.
  • For the second square: make 1 sc in the back loop only of the first ch (the ch that’s already been worked in). Make 1 sc in the front loop only of the second ch (the unworked second ch).
• In the blanket’s three remaining corner ch-2 sps, make 3 sc in each ch-2 sp (don’t work into the 2 ch sts at the corners).

When back at the first st made in the round, sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Border Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the first st (this is the joining sl st that never gets worked into).

[*In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.*

Repeat from * to * until the corner st (the middle of the 3 sc sts made in the corner in the previous round). 

Your last st before the corner st should be an hdc. If your last st is a sl st, add an hdc in the same st.

In the corner st, (sl st, hdc, sl st) in the same st.

In the next st (after the corner st), hdc.]

Complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 4 times.

Sl st into the first sl st made in the round to join.

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

Use the tails from joining to fix any gaps. 

And now you have a new snowflake blanket! 

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