Snowflake Ornament – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Snowflake Ornament

Decorate your Christmas tree with this free Snowflake Ornament Crochet Pattern! This easy crochet Christmas ornament is simple, festive and fun to make. Whether you’re decorating your own tree or making thoughtful handmade gifts, this beautiful snowflake design is a joy to crochet and display.

Crocheting your own Christmas ornaments is such a fun and meaningful way to celebrate the season, and this snowflake ornament pattern is the perfect project. It works up quickly, looks stunning in any color, and is great for using up yarn from your stash. You can make a full set of matching ornaments, mix and match festive colors, or create a timeless white snowflake collection for a classic holiday look.

I loved designing this crochet snowflake ornament and seeing how it transforms a simple bulb into something truly special.

The pattern includes easy-to-follow detailed instructions and a step-by-step video tutorial, so you can follow along easily even if you’re new to crocheting ornaments. Grab your yarn, a 3.1″ round ornament bulb, and get ready to crochet a beautiful snowflake that will shine on your tree year after year.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.

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Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

This pattern is designed to fit a round ornament bulb that measures 3.1″ in diameter (10″ around).

At this time, I only have a pattern for this size, not for any smaller or larger bulbs.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic yarn (you want to use acrylic yarn so it stretches slightly) in two colors. For each ornament, you will need approximately: 

• A) For Color A (the snowflakes): 15 yds. 
• B) For Color B (the backgrounds & joining): 20 yds.

For the blue ornaments, I used Soft Classic yarn by Loops & Threads. For Color A: “White.“ For Color B: “Cornflower.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g.

For the red and green ornaments, I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads. For Color A:  “White.” For Color B: “Cherry” (red) and “Dark Emerald” (green).  This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. 

Crochet Hook Size: G/7 (4.50 mm). 

Other Materials: A round ornament bulb that is 3.1” in diameter (10” around) (I used silver bulbs), a hanging hook or ribbon, a yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. Optional: a stitch marker.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• ch-1, ch-2, ch-3 sp(s) = chain one, chain two, chain three space(s)
• dc = double crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet 
• sl st = slip stitch
• sp/sps = space/spaces 
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• tr = triple/treble crochet

Gauge

After Round 3, your work should measure 3.5” across. Measurements are provided throughout the pattern. If at any point your work is measuring differently, start again with a different hook size. 

Pattern Notes

• Never turn at the start or end of any round.
• When the pattern has instructions in square brackets followed by a “x 7”, this means to complete the instructions in the square brackets a total of 7 times.
• When the pattern has instructions in round brackets, it means to crochet those instructions in the same space. For example, “In the next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc)” means to: make 1 dc, ch 1 and 1 dc, all in the same chain-one space.
• The slip stitch that joins each round never gets worked into or counted as a stitch.
• You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch made in every round. 

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Make More Snowflakes!

If you’re loving this snowy theme, you can create a whole matching collection with my other crochet snowflake patterns:

Each snowflake pattern is easy to follow, includes its own step-by-step video tutorial, and is designed to complement the others beautifully as part of a cohesive winter collection. And right now, I have exciting news…

For a limited time, get all four snowflake patterns as printable PDFs for only $9.97! Get the Snowflake Bundle Today!

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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How to Crochet the Snowflake Ornament (Pattern Instructions)

Circle

Some diagrams show Color A in blue and Color B in green so they are easier to see.

Start: With Color A (the snowflake color), make a Magic Circle. Continue using Color A until instructed to change colors. 

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3. 

[In the magic circle, hdc. Ch 1.] x 7 (meaning to complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 7 times). 

Pull the magic circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the ch-3 sp (the sp between the starting ch-3 and the first hdc) to join.

(Stitch count: 7 hdc sts, 1 ch-3 sp and 7 ch-1 sps (the 7 ch-1 sps are the sps under each ch-1))

Round 2 (RS): Ch 3. (Reminder: never turn). 

In the ch-3 sp, dc. 

*In the next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st into the ch-3 sp (the sp between the starting ch-3 and the first dc) to join.

(Stitch count: 15 dc sts, 1 ch-3 sp and 7 ch-1 sps (the ch-1 sps are the sps under each ch-1.))

Round 3 (RS): Ch 2.

In the ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 

*In the next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc).*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st in the top of the first dc to join.

(Stitch count: 31 dc sts and 8 ch-2 sps (the ch-2 sps are the sps under each ch-2). The starting ch-2 does not create a ch-2 sp.)

After Round 3, work should measure 3.5” across. Reminder: if at any point, your work does not match the measurements provided, start again with a different hook size. 

Fasten off Color A (cut the yarn that is attached to the skein and pull it through the loop that was on your hook).

For Round 4, when the instructions say to work in the sp between sts, it means to insert your hook in between the posts of the next 2 sts (do not work in the tops of sts). Treat the starting ch-2 from the previous round as a dc st. 

Round 4 (RS): Insert your hook into the first ch-2 sp. Place Color B (the background color) on your hook and pull it through the sp. Continue using Color B for the rest of the circle.

Ch 1. 

*In the ch-2 sp, make 2 hdc. 

In between the next 2 sts, dc. 

In the sp between clusters (the groups of 2 dc sts), tr. 

In between the next 2 sts, dc.*

Repeat from * to * around. 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

(Stitch count: 40 sts (not counting the starting ch-1))

After Round 4, work should measure 4” across. 

Round 5 (RS): Ch 1.

In the first st, sc. 

Sc in each st around. 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

(Stitch count: 40 sts (not counting the starting ch-1))

After Round 5, work should measure 4.5” across. 

Note: your work is supposed to curl/curve slightly. 

This completes your first circle. Fasten off (cut the yarn attached to the skein and pull it through the loop on your hook) and weave in all loose ends.

Make a second circle, following the exact same instructions, but do not fasten off when finished. Weave in all other loose ends, except for the yarn still attached to your skein.

Joining

If you’d like a visual guide, the step-by-step video tutorial shows you how to join the two circles.

Joining Notes: 

• Continue using Color B. 
• You’ll be slip stitching the two circles together, working in the outer loops only of both circles (these are the loops farthest from the center/inside). 
• For each slip stitch:
  • Start by inserting your hook into the outer loop of the circle closest to you (the loop closest to you). You’ll have 1 loop on your hook. 
  • Then, insert your hook into the outer loop of the circle farthest from you (the loop furthest from you). You’ll have 2 loops on your hook. 
  • Yarn over and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. This completes one slip stitch.
• Do not work into the slip stitch that joined the final round of the circles.

Position the two circles: 

Place the two circles together with the wrong sides facing each other (the RS of both circles should be facing out). The joining sl sts from the final round of the circles should be lined up. The RS of the second circle should be facing you.

Joining Instructions: 

Ch 1.

Working in the outer loops of the first stitch of both circles, sl st.

*Working in the outer loops of the next stitch of both circles, sl st.*

Repeat from * to * until you are approximately 2/3 of the way around.

Insert the ornament bulb between the two circles. Push the ornament’s cap (the top nub) to where you started joining. 

Resume: *Working in the outer loops of the next stitch of both circles, sl st.*

Repeat from * to * until you reach the ornament’s cap. 

Fasten off and weave in the loose end. 

And now you have a new snowflake ornament! 

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