Soft Baby Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Softest Baby Blanket!

Looking for a soft crochet baby blanket pattern that’s modern, cozy, and incredibly satisfying to make?

This Soft Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern is designed with plush chenille-style (size 4) yarn, giving it a beautiful velvety texture that babies (and parents!) will love.

Choose your favorite color for a baby boy or a baby girl or a gender-neutral baby blanket.

It works perfectly as a nursery blanket, stroller blanket, or baby shower gift, and the finished result looks delightfully store-bought — yet handmade with love.

This pattern includes a step-by-step video tutorial, making it easy to follow even if you’ve never worked with chenille yarn before.

The stitches are simple and repetitive, so you can relax into the rhythm while creating something truly special.

Whether you’re making it for your own little one or as a gift, this beautiful and snuggly blanket is sure to become a cherished keepsake.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the free written instructions.

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Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

The skill level is easy to intermediate.

Size

The pattern creates a small baby blanket that is approximately 28” x 28” (perfect for a car seat, newborn or security blanket).

Instructions for adjusting the size are included in the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: You can use any size 4 (medium), 100% polyester chenille-style yarn (such as Petite Purl or Skinny Chenille by Loops & Threads and Bernat Baby Velvet). You will need approximately 700 yds in total (500 yds for the blanket body and 200 yds for the border). 

I used Petite Purl yarn by Loops & Threads in the color “Mauve.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% polyester. A skein is 537 yds / 491 m and 8.75 oz / 250 g. I used 2 skeins. 

You’re welcome to try using size 3 (light) or a regular size 4 yarn, but the size, look, feel, and yarn amount may vary. Adjust your starting chains and hook size if needed.

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. Optional: stitch markers.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• BPdc = back post double crochet
• ch/chs = chain/chains
• ch-1 sp = chain 1 space
• ch-2 sp = chain 2 space
• dc = double crochet
• FPdc = front post double crochet
• sc = single crochet 
• sl st = slip stitch
• sk = skip
• sp/sps = space/spaces 
• st/sts = stitch/stitches

Gauge

Exact sizing is not important. For reference, 4” x 4” = 13 sc sts and 12 rows following the blanket body pattern.

Pattern Notes

• The blanket is completely reversible and looks the same on the front and on the back. 
• Chains never count as stitches.
• You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the first stitch made in every row.
• The main stitch used in the blanket body is often called a “single crochet V-stitch.” 

How to Adjust the Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approximately 28” x 28” with the border (24” x 24” without the border). 

The number of starting chains determines the width and the number of rows determines the height. To adjust the width, make more or less starting chains in multiples of 3 + 1 (meaning to take any number that you can divide by 3 and add 1 to that number i.e. 90 + 1 = 91 starting chains required). To adjust the height, make more or less rows. 

As a guideline: 76 sts = 24“ wide, which means there are approximately 3.2 stitches in an inch. You can take the width you want your blanket to be (in inches) and multiply it by 3.2. For example, if you want your blanket to be approximately 100” wide, 100 x 3.2 = 320. Round up to the nearest multiple of 3. In this example, you would round up to 321. Then add 1 to that number (321 + 1 = 322). So, you would need 322 starting chains to make the blanket approximately 100” wide. (This is a rough estimate and has not been tested but should give you a width that is close to what you want it to be). 

Stitch Explanations

For Rounds 3 – 5 of the border, you will be making front and back post stitches. If these stitches are new to you, here’s how to make them:

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc):

Yarn over, insert your hook from the front to the back at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Then finish your double crochet stitch as you normally would: yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the last two loops on your hook.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): 

Yarn over, insert your hook from the back to the front at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Then finish your double crochet stitch as you normally would: yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the last two loops on your hook.

Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instrucitons.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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Pattern Instructions

Blanket Body

Start: Ch 115. 

Row 1: In the second ch from the hook, sc.

Sk the next ch. 

*In the next ch, sc. 

Ch 2. In the next ch, sc.

Sk the next ch.*

Repeat from * to * across until there is 1 ch left. 

In the last ch, sc.

(76 sc sts and 37 ch-2 sps)

You can fix any gaps after making the border.

Every time you ch 2, you create a “ch-2 sp” that you will work into on the next row. This ch-2 sp is under the two chs and between sc sts. 

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn.

In the first st, sc.

Until the last st of the row, only work into the ch-2 sps, not into tops of sts:

*In the next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc).*

Repeat from * to * across until there is 1 st left.

In the last st, sc.

(76 sc sts and 37 ch-2 sps)

Row 3 and on: Repeat Row 2 until the height of your blanket matches your width (for a square blanket) or until you reach your desired height. You can end after any row. My blanket body measured 24” high, which was 69 rows.

After reaching your desired height, proceed to the Final Row. 

Final Row: Ch 1 and turn.

In the first st, sc.

Until the last st of the row, only work into the ch-2 sps, not into tops of sts:

*In the next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc).*

Repeat from * to * across until there is 1 st left.

In the last st, sc.

(76 sc sts. The number of sps is not important.)

Blanket Border

Border Round 1: Ch 1. Do not turn.

SIDE (DOWN): Working down the side, make 1 sc at the end of each row. 

The exact st count and st placement are not important – the goal is to have evenly spaced sc sts all the way down (and later up) the side. You can work into 1 loop or 2 of each st at the row end, just not into sps around the sts.

BOTTOM: In the first ch across the bottom, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sk the next ch.

*Sc in the next 2 chs. Sk the next ch.*

Repeat from * to * across the bottom until there is 1 ch left. 

In the last ch, make 3 sc (second corner made). 

SIDE (UP): Working up the side, make 1 sc at the end of each row (same as working down the side). 

TOP – In the first st across the top, make 3 sc (third corner made). 

As you work across the top, only work into tops of sc sts, not into chs or sps. 

Sc in each st across the top until there is 1 st left. 

In the last st, make 3 sc (fourth corner made).

Note: the top may look misshaped – that will be fixed as the border grows.

Sl st into the top of the first sc made in the round to join.

Border Round 2: Ch 2. Do not turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch-2), dc. 

Dc in each st around except at the corners. 

At each corner, in the corner st (the middle st of the 3 sc sts made in each corner in the previous round), make 9 dc in the same st. (It’s okay for the corners to “balloon” out – that will be fixed as the border grows).

After working all the way around, before joining the round, count your sts (the ch-2 that started the round does not count as a stitch). You need to have an odd number of sts in total at the end of Border Round 2. 

If you have an odd number of sts, proceed to join. 

If you have an even number of sts, make another dc in the last st, then proceed to join. 

Join: sl st into the top of the first dc made in the round.

Border Round 3: Ch 2. Do not turn. 

FPdc around the first st from the round below (not the ch-2 from below. The ch-2 from below is never worked around). 

*BPdc around the next st from the round below. 

FPdc around the next st from the round below.* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

Nothing special happens at the corners. 

Your last st is a FPdc around the last dc from the round below. 

Sl st into the top of the first FPdc to join.

Border Round 4: Ch 2. Do not turn. 

FPdc around the first st below (the FPdc from the round below. The ch-2 from below is not worked around). 

*BPdc around the next st below (the next BPdc from the round below). 

FPdc around the next st below (the next FPdc from the round below).* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

Nothing special happens at the corners.

Your last st is a FPdc around the last FPdc from the round below. 

Sl st into the top of the first FPdc to join.

Border Round 5: Repeat Round 4. 

After finishing Border Round 5, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

Finishing

Fixing Gaps (Optional)

You may notice small gaps at the start of the blanket body (from Row 1). To fix, thread a long strand of yarn onto a yarn needle and weave the strand around the sts where the gaps appear and pull lightly to close/tighten the gaps, then weave in any loose ends.

And now you have a new blanket!

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More Baby Blanket Patterns

I have many more baby blanket patterns! Here are a few:

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