Solid Granny Square Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Solid Granny Square Blanket

This solid granny square blanket pattern combines vibrant solid color squares that come together to form a stunning afghan. You can create a cozy solid granny square baby blanket or add more squares to craft a larger, snuggly solid granny square blanket.

The pattern includes detailed instructions outlining how to make this blanket from start to finish including how to make the squares, how to assemble and join the squares and how to add a lovely border to the blanket.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details and the pattern instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

SQUARE SIZE:

• After Round 2 = 2.75” x 2.75”  
• After Round 3 = 3.75” x 3.75” 
• After Round 4 = 5” x 5” 
• After Round 5 = 6” x 6”  (8” diagonally)

Exact sizing is not important in this pattern.

BLANKET SIZE:

Making 36 squares creates a blanket that is approx. 37” x 37” with the border (34” x 34” without the border).

You can adjust the size of the blanket by making more or less squares. 

Each square requires approx. 32 yds of size 3 (light) yarn. If you adjust the size, the amount of yarn required for joining and the border will change. For reference, joining 36 squares/adding a border around 36 squares requires approx. 300 yds of yarn. 

Materials

Yarn: Any size 3 (light) yarn. I made 36 squares. Each square requires approx. 32 yds of yarn. Joining and the border (for 36 squares) requires approx. 300 yds.

Information about using size 4 (medium) yarn is below.

I used Snuggly Wuggly by Loops & Threads in six colors. This yarn is size 3 (light) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 446 yds / 408 m and 5 oz / 141 g. I used less than 1 skein of each color.

Colors and amounts of yarn I used: 

• Fairy Tale (pink) – 8 squares: 256 yds 
• Yellow – 7 squares: 224 yds 
• Light Green – 7 squares: 224 yds 
• Pale Blue – 7 squares: 224 yds 
• Soft Lilac (purple) – 7 squares: 224 yds 
• White – 60 yds for joining & 240 yds for the border = 300 yds in total

Crochet Hook Sizes: J/10 (6.00 mm). For Border Round 6 (only), an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook. 

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers and a measuring tape.

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Using Size 4 (Medium) Yarn

While I designed, made and tested this blanket with size 3 (light) yarn, you are welcome to use size 4 (medium) yarn.  Here are the details for making the blanket with size 4 (medium) yarn: 

Crochet Hook Size: For size 4 yarn, use a K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook for everything except Border Round 6. For Border Round 6, use an I/9 (5.50 mm) hook. 

Yarn: Each square requires approx. 36 yds of size 4 (medium) yarn. For joining 36 squares/adding the border to 36 squares, you will need approx. 400 yds (this is a rough estimate).

Size: Making 36 squares with size 4 yarn will create a blanket that is approx. 46” x 46” with the border (42” x 42” without the border). Using size 4 yarn, each square measures approx.: 7″ x 7″ (9″ diagonally).

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Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• ch-2 sp = chain 2 space 
• RS = right side (front)
• WS = wrong side (back)

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Video Tutorials

Watch step-by-step video tutorial for the squares here: https://youtu.be/Yp_2f4Z3Erk

For joining the squares and adding the border, you can refer to my video tutorial for my Flower Granny Square Blanket starting at 34:03, which has similar instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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Pattern Overview

1) Make the squares
2) Assemble the squares
3) Join the squares
4) Add the border

Make the Squares

Square Notes

• Chains never count at stitches.
• Your work may curl during the first few rounds but will lay flat after Round 5. 
• Tip: you may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the first stitch made in each round.

Square Amounts/Colors

Make 36 squares in total. All squares are made the same way.  To make the blanket with the same colors and color pattern that I did, make: 

• Pink – 8 squares
• Yellow – 7 squares
• Green – 7 squares
• Blue – 7 squares
• Purple – 7 squares

Square Instructions

Use a J/10 (6.00 mm) hook. 

Start: Make a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch 1. 

*Make 3 dc into the Magic Circle. Ch 2.*

Complete the instructions from * to * a total of 4 times. 

Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc to join. 

(12 dc sts. 4 ch-2 sps.* Note: chs and the joining sl st never count as sts).

*Note: every time you made a ch-2, you created a “ch-2 sp” that you will work into on the next round.

Round 2: Turn your work (the WS/back is now facing you). 

Sl st into the first ch-2 sp (which was the last ch-2 sp made in the previous round). 

Ch 2. (Note: this starting ch-2 does not create a ch-2 sp and does not count as a st). 

Turn your work (the RS/front is now facing you). 

In the same/first ch-2 sp, make 2 dc. 

Sk the first st (the same st that you joined with a sl st in the previous round).

Dc in the next 2 sts. 

*In the ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Sk the next st. Dc in the next 2 sts.*

Complete the instructions from * to * a total of 3 times. 

In the first ch-2 sp, make 2 dc. 

Ch 2. Sl st into the top of the first dc to join. 

(24 dc sts. 4 ch-2 sps.)

Rounds 3 & 4 have the same instructions as Round 2 except for the number of sts between the corner ch-2 sps. 

Round 3: Turn (WS). 

Sl st into the first ch-2 sp.

Ch 2. 

Turn (RS). 

In the same/first ch-2 sp, make 2 dc. 

Sk the first st. 

Dc in the next 5 sts. 

*In the ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Sk the next st. Dc in the next 5 sts.*

Complete the instructions from * to * a total of 3 times. 

In the first ch-2 sp, make 2 dc. 

Ch 2. Sl st into the top of the first dc to join. 

(36 dc sts. 4 ch-2 sps.)

Round 4: Turn (WS). 

Sl st into the first ch-2 sp.

Ch 2. 

Turn (RS). 

In the same/first ch-2 sp, make 2 dc. 

Sk the first st.

Dc in the next 8 sts. 

*In the ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Sk the next st. Dc in the next 8 sts.*

Complete the instructions from * to * a total of 3 times. 

In the first ch-2 sp, make 2 dc. 

Ch 2. Sl st into the top of the first dc to join. 

(48 dc sts. 4 ch-2 sps.)

For Round 5, extra sts are made in the corners to help stop the corners from curling. 

Round 5: Turn (WS). 

Sl st into the first ch-2 sp.

Ch 2. 

Turn (RS). 

In the same/first ch-2 sp, make 3 dc. 

Sk the first st. 

Dc in the next 11 sts. 

*In the ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Sk the next st. Dc in the next 11 sts.*

Complete the instructions from * to * a total of 3 times. 

In the first ch-2 sp, make 3 dc. 

Ch 2. Sl st into the top of the first dc to join. 

(68 dc sts. 4 ch-2 sps.)

Fasten off and weave in loose ends. 

Blocking (Optional)

Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. To block your finished squares, pin them on blocking boards with rust-proof pins or use a granny square blocking board, spray them with water and leave them to dry.

Should you block your squares before joining? 

It’s a personal preference. Some people like to block their squares before joining and others prefer to block their finished blanket (and some don’t block at all). I blocked all my squares before joining and I blocked my finished blanket.

Assemble the Squares

Lay your squares out with the RS/front of each square facing up as shown in the image below.  (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).

Place a stitch marker in the bottom left square’s ch-2 sp (the ch-2 sp on the bottom left corner) – this helps you remember the starting square (square A). 

Join the Squares

Joining Notes

The images/diagrams in this pattern may show a different granny square but the instructions are the same. 

• The squares are joined using the flat slip stitch joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
• Use a J/10 (6.00 mm) hook. 
• I used White yarn for joining. You will need approx. 60 yds of yarn for joining. 
• You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once. 
• Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side/front of each square facing up.
• Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
• When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.

• Don’t make your stitches too tight (this is very important!). If necessary, go up a hook size. 
• Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left). 
• You will always be working into the outer loops only.  The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square. 

• Do not work into the slip stitch that joined the final round of the square (skip that slip stitch). 

How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch

Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook. 

Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook. 

Step 3: Note: ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook. 

Your flat slip stitch has now been made.

Joining the next two squares:

After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.

Joining Overview

First, the squares are joined vertically by joining the squares in Column 1, then Column 2, 3, 4 & 5 (and any more columns if applicable). 

Second, the squares joined horizontally by joining the squares in Row 1, then Row 2, 3, 4 & 5 (and any more rows if applicable). 

(You will start each column and row with new yarn by making a slip knot and placing it on your hook. At the end of each column and row, you will fasten off).

The join lines on the blanket look slightly different on the front and back: 

Joining Columns

Instructions for each column:

• Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of two chain stitches (leave the first of two chain stitches unworked).
• Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
• Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked). 

Column 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares B and A.

Join Squares H and G.

Join Squares N and M.

Join Squares T and S.

Join Squares Z and Y. 

Join Squares FF and EE. Fasten off. 

Column 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares C and B.

Join Squares I and J.

Join Squares O and N.

Join Squares U and T.

Join Squares AA and Z. 

Join Squares GG and FF. Fasten off. 

Column 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares D and C.

Join Squares J and I.

Join Squares P and O.

Join Squares V and U.

Join Squares BB and AA. 

Join Squares HH and GG. Fasten off. 

Column 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares E and D.

Join Squares K and J.

Join Squares Q and P.

Join Squares W and V.

Join Squares CC and BB.

Join Squares II and HH. Fasten off. 

Column 5: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares F and E.

Join Squares L and K.

Join Squares R and Q.

Join Squares X and W.

Join Squares DD and CC.

Join Squares JJ and II. Fasten off. 

Joining Rows

Instructions for each row: 

• When joining the first two squares of a row, work in the second of the first two chain stitches. For all other squares in the row, you will work over the columns (meaning your row’s stitches will be overtop the columns) and work into both of the first two chain stitches (the first chain will have already been worked in but work into it again). 
• After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches. 
• Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked).

Row 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares A and G (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts). 

Join Squares B and H (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts). 

Join Squares C and I.

Join Squares D and J.

Join Squares E and K.

Join Squares F and L. Fasten off.

Row 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares G and M (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares H and N (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares I and O.

Join Squares J and P. 

Join Squares K and Q.

Join Squares L and R. Fasten off.

Row 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares M and S (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares N and T (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares O and U.

Join Squares P and V. 

Join Squares Q and W.

Join Squares R and X.  Fasten off.

Row 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares S and Y (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares T and Z (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares U and AA.

Join Squares V and BB. 

Join Squares W and CC. 

Join Squares X and DD. Fasten off.

Row 5: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares Y and EE (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares Z and FF (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares AA and GG.

Join Squares BB and HH. 

Join Squares CC and II. 

Join Squares DD and JJ. Fasten off.

Add the Border

Border Notes

• Do not weave in your loose ends from joining. The tails can be used to fix any gaps between the join lines and border.
• Use a J/10 (6.00 mm) hook. 
• I used White yarn for the border. You will need approx. 240 yds of yarn for the border. 

Border Round 1: Attach yarn in the starting square’s corner ch-2 sp with a sl st (the sp with a stitch marker – you can now remove the marker). Ensure the right side/front of the blanket is facing you. In the same ch-2 sp, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sc in the top of each dc st around. 

• Do not work into the slip stitch that joined the final round of the square (skip that slip stitch). 
• When approaching where two squares were joined, don’t work into the ch-2 sps:
  • For the first square: make 1 sc in the front loop only of the first ch (the unworked first ch from the ch-2 sp). Sk the second ch.
  • Sk the join line.
  • For the second square: make 1 sc in the back loop only of the first ch (the ch that’s already been worked in). Make 1 sc in the front loop only of the second ch (the unworked second ch).
• In the blanket’s three remaining corner ch-2 sps, make 3 sc in each ch-2 sp (don’t work into the 2 ch sts at the corners).

Border Round 1 (Continued): When back at the first st made in the round, sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Border Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch). Sc in each st around, except at the corners. At each corner, make 3 sc in the corner st (the corner st is the middle sc st of the 3 sc made in each corner in the previous round). When back at the first st made in the round, sl st into the top of the first sc made to join. 

Border Rounds 3 & 4: Repeat Round 2. 

Border Round 5: Ch 2 and turn. (The right side/front of the blanket should be facing you). Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch).  Dc in each st around, except at the corners. At each corner, make 3 dc in the corner st. Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

For Border Round 6, I found the round looked better if you go down two hook sizes. I used an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook for this entire round. 

Border Round 6: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch). *Sl st into the next st. Make 4 sc in the next st (shell created). Sk the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. (Nothing special happens at the corners).

As you approach the first shell made, you’ll want to have a sl st between it and your last shell. If you don’t have the right number of sts, back up and don’t skip a stitch after a shell to make it work. 

After your last sl st, fasten off and weave in loose ends. Use the tails to fix any gaps. 

And now you have a new granny square blanket!

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