Sunflower Granny Square Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern
Learn how to crochet a stunning Sunflower Granny Square Blanket including how to make the sunflower granny squares, join them together and add a lovely textured border. Whether it’s your first granny square blanket or your hundredth, you’ll be proud to show off your beautiful new sunflower blanket.
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Crochet Sunflower Blanket
Learn how to crochet a stunning sunflower blanket with this Sunflower Granny Square Blanket Crochet Pattern!
This beautiful blanket is made from cheerful sunflower granny squares that are joined together to create a cozy blanket you’ll treasure for years to come. The bright sunflower design adds warmth and charm to any space, making it perfect for your living room, bedroom or as a thoughtful handmade gift.
The pattern includes detailed written instructions with diagrams for every step as well as a step-by-step video tutorial showing you exactly how to crochet the sunflower granny squares, join the squares together and finish your blanket with a lovely textured border.
This is one of my favorite granny square blankets that I’ve designed and made. I was pleasantly surprised by how quickly the squares work up and it’s really satisfying to join them all together. Plus, sunflowers just make me happy!
Whether it’s your first granny square blanket or your hundredth, you’ll be so proud to show off your new blanket. It makes a gorgeous addition for your home and is a delight to snuggle under.
Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.
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Pattern Details
Skill Level
The skill level for this pattern is easy to intermediate.
Size
Making 36 squares creates a blanket that is approximately 33” x 33” without the border (34” x 34” with the border).
Each square is 5.5” x 5.5”. To adjust the size of the blanket, make more or less squares.
Materials
Yarn: You can use any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approximately:
- Color A (brown for the flower center): 180 yds (5 yds/square).
- Color B (yellow for the petals): 360 yds (10 yds/square).
- Color C (dark green for the background): 720 yds (20 yds/square).
- Color D (light green for joining and the border): 130 yds in total (60 yds for joining and 70 yds for the border).
I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads. This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g.
- For Color A: I used 1 skein of “Walnut.”
- For Color B: I used 2 skeins of “Sunny Day.
- For Color C: I used 3 skeins of “Deep Forest.”
- For Color D: I used 1 skein of “Fern.”
Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm) for the entire pattern.
Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, a stitch marker and a measuring tape.
Terminology
This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart.
Abbreviations
- ch/chs = chain/chains
- ch-1, ch-2 sp/sps = chain-one, chain-two space(s)
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet two together
- dc3tog = double crochet three together
- hdc = half double crochet
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp/sps = space/spaces
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- tr = triple/treble crochet
- tr2tog = triple crochet two together
- YO = yarn over
Stitch Explanations
In case any of these stitches are new to you:
Triple/Treble Crochet (tr):
Yarn over (YO) twice and insert your hook into the magic circle. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (3 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook.
Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog):
YO. Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same st. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed dc2tog counts as 1 st.
Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog):
YO. Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same st. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same st. YO and pull through a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 4 loops on your hook. This completed dc3tog counts as 1 st.
Triple/Treble Crochet Two Together (tr2tog)
YO twice. Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). YO twice and insert your hook into the same st. YO and pull through a loop (5 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (4 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed tr2tog counts as 1 st.
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Video Tutorial
Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.
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Pattern Overview
1) Make the squares
2) Assemble the squares
3) Join the squares
4) Add the border
Make the Squares
Square Notes
- Never turn at the start or end of any round.
- Chains never count as stitches.
- Your work may curl during the first few rounds but will lay flat after Round 4.
- When the pattern has instructions in round brackets, it means to crochet those instructions in the same stitch.
- When the instructions say to fasten off a color, it means to cut the yarn that’s attached to your skein and pull the end/tail through the loop that was on your hook.
- The slip stitch that joins each round never gets worked into or counted as a stitch.
- You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch made in every round.
Square Gauge
As long as all your squares are the same size, exact sizing is not important. For reference, my work after Round 2 measured 3.5” across.
Square Instructions
Make 36 squares.
Start: With Color A (I used brown yarn), make a Magic Circle. Continue using Color A for Round 1.
Round 1: Ch 2.
Make 16 tr into the Magic Circle.
Pull the Magic Circle tight to close.
Sl st into the top of the first tr st to join.
(16 tr sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts.)
Fasten off Color A (reminder: this means to cut the yarn and pull it through the loop on your hook).
Round 2: Reminder: never turn. Attach Color B (I used yellow yarn): insert your hook into the first st, place the yellow yarn on your hook and pull it through the st. Use Color B for all of Round 2.
Ch 2.
In the same (first) st, dc2tog.
Ch 2. In the next st, tr2tog.
*Ch 2. In the next st, dc3tog.
Ch 2. In the next st, tr2tog.*
Repeat from * to * around.
Ch 1.
Sl st into the top of the first (dc2tog) st to join.
(1 dc2tog + 8 tr2tog + 7 dc3tog = 16 sts)
Note: In Round 2, except for the starting ch-2, every time you chained 2 between sts, you created a “ch-2 sp” that you will work into on the next round. This ch-2 sp is under the two chs and between sts. The first ch-2 of the round does not create a ch-2 sp. The ch-1 at the end of the round creates a ch-1 sp that you will work into. At the end of Round 2, there are 15 ch-2 sps and 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 3: Attach Color C (I used dark green): insert your hook into the first ch-2 sp, place Color C on your hook and pull it through the sp. Continue using Color C for the rest of the square.
Ch 2.
In the same (first) ch-2 sp, make 3 dc.
*In the next ch-2 sp, make 3 dc.*
Repeat from * to * around.
In the ch-1 (last) sp, make 3 dc.
Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.
(48 dc sts)
Round 4: Ch 1.
Begin the round by working into the first st.
*In the next st, sc.
In the next 2 sts, hdc.
In the next 2 sts, dc.
In the next st, (2 dc, tr) – reminder: this means to make 2 dc and 1 tr, all in the same st.
Ch 2.
In the next st (tr, 2 dc) – reminder: this means to make 1 tr and 2 dc, all in the same st.
In the next 2 sts, dc.
In the next 2 sts, hdc.
In the next st, sc.*
Repeat from * to * around.
Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.
(8 sc + 16 hdc + 32 dc + 8 tr = 64 sts)
Fasten off Color C and weave in all loose ends.
Make 36 squares in total.
Blocking:
Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. To block your finished squares, pin them on blocking boards with rust-proof pins, spray them with water and leave them to dry. Blocking is a personal preference. I blocked all my squares before joining and I blocked my finished blanket.
Assemble the Squares
Lay your squares out with the right side/front of each square facing up as shown in the image below. (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).
Place a stitch marker in the bottom left square’s ch-2 sp – this helps you remember the starting square.
Join the Squares
Joining Notes
Some images/diagrams below show different granny squares but the instructions are the same.
- Use Color D for joining (I used light green).
- The squares are joined using the flat slip stitch joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
- You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once.
- Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side/front of each square facing up.
- Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
- When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.
- Don’t make your stitches too tight (this is very important!). If necessary, go up a hook size.
- Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left).
- You will always be working into the outer loops only (also known as the back loops). The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square.
- If you come across a sl st that joined the final round of a square, skip over it and do not work into it.
How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch
Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook.
Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook.
Step 3: Note: ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook.
Your flat slip stitch has now been made.
Joining the next two squares:
After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.
Joining Overview
First, the squares are joined vertically by joining the squares in Column 1, then Column 2, Column 3 and Column 4 (and any more columns if applicable).
Second, the squares are joined horizontally by joining the squares in Row 1, then Row 2, Row 3, and Row 4 (and any more rows if applicable).
You will start each column and row with new yarn by making a slip knot and placing it on your hook. At the end of each column and row, you will fasten off.
Joining Columns
Instructions for each column:
- Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of the two chain stitches (leave the first of the two chain stitches unworked).
- Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
- Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of the two chain stitches (leave the second of the two chain stitches unworked).
Column 1:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares B and A.
Join Squares H and G.
Join Squares N and M.
Join Squares T and S.
Join Squares Z and Y.
Join Squares FF and EE.
Fasten off.
Column 2:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares C and B.
Join Squares I and H.
Join Squares O and N.
Join Squares U and T.
Join Squares AA and Z.
Join Squares GG and FF.
Fasten off.
Column 3:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares D and C.
Join Squares J and I.
Join Squares P and O.
Join Squares V and U.
Join Squares BB and AA.
Join Squares HH and GG.
Fasten off.
Column 4:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares E and D.
Join Squares K and J.
Join Squares Q and P.
Join Squares W and V.
Join Squares CC and BB.
Join Squares II and HH.
Fasten off.
Column 5:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares F and E.
Join Squares L and K.
Join Squares R and Q.
Join Squares X and W.
Join Squares DD and CC.
Join Squares JJ and II.
Fasten off.
Joining Rows
Instructions for each row:
- When joining the first two squares of a row, work in the second of the first two chain stitches. For all other squares in the row, you will work over the columns (meaning your row’s stitches will be overtop the columns) and work into both of the first two chain stitches (the first chain will have already been worked in but work into it again).
- After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
- Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of the two chain stitches (leave the second of the two chain stitches unworked).
Row 1:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares A and G (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares B and H (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares C and I.
Join Squares D and J.
Join Squares E and K.
Join Squares F and L.
Fasten off.
Row 2:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares G and M (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares H and N (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares I and O.
Join Squares J and P.
Join Squares K and Q.
Join Squares L and R.
Fasten off.
Row 3:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares M and S (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares N and T (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares O and U.
Join Squares P and V.
Join Squares Q and W.
Join Squares R and X.
Fasten off.
Row 4:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares S and Y (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares T and Z (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares U and AA.
Join Squares V and BB.
Join Squares W and CC.
Join Squares X and DD.
Fasten off.
Row 5:
Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
Join Squares Y and EE (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares Z and FF (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
Join Squares AA and GG.
Join Squares BB and HH.
Join Squares CC and II.
Join Squares DD and JJ.
Fasten off.
Add the Border
Border Instructions
Do not weave in your loose ends from joining. The tails can be used to fix any gaps between the join lines and border. Use Color D (I used light green) for the border.
Border Round 1: With the right side/front of the blanket facing you, insert your hook into the starting square’s corner ch-2 sp (the sp with the stitch marker – you can now remove the marker). Place Color D on your hook and pull it through the sp. Ch 1. In the same ch-2 sp, make 3 sc (first corner made).
Sc in the top of each st around, except:
- If you come across a sl st that joined the final round of the square, skip over it and do not work into it.
- When approaching where two squares were joined, don’t work into the ch-2 sps:
- For the first square: make 1 sc in the front loop only of the first ch (the unworked first ch from the ch-2 sp). Sk the second ch.
- Sk the join line.
- For the second square: make 1 sc in the back loop only of the first ch (the ch that’s already been worked in). Make 1 sc in the front loop only of the second ch (the unworked second ch).
- In the blanket’s three remaining corner ch-2 sps, make 3 sc in each ch-2 sp (don’t work into the 2 ch sts at the corners).
When back at the first st made in the round, sl st into the top of the first sc to join.
Border Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the first st (this is the joining sl st that never gets worked into).
[*In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.*
Repeat from * to * until the corner st (the middle of the 3 sc sts made in the corner in the previous round).
Your last st before the corner st should be an hdc. If your last st is a sl st, add an hdc in the same st.
In the corner st, (sl st, hdc, sl st) in the same st.
In the next st (after the corner st), hdc.]
Complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 4 times.
Sl st into the first sl st made in the round to join.
Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Use the tails from joining to fix any gaps.
And now you have a new sunflower blanket!
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I’m Jo, the designer behind Jo to the World Creations, and I’m dedicated to helping you make the perfect crochet gift! I love designing and sharing free crochet patterns that you can make for every gift occasion.
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