Tulip Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Flower Blanket

This Tulip Blanket Crochet Pattern is a delightful crochet flower blanket that works beautifully as a baby blanket, a cozy throw, or a heartfelt handmade gift. 

It features vibrant rows of tulips worked into a clean, white background, framed by a lovely complementary border. The colors really pop, and the unique stitch combinations give the blanket the WOW factor. Whether you’re making it for a nursery, a spring refresh, or just because, the finished result is both modern and timeless.

While the finished design looks intricate, the pattern includes clear, easy-to-follow instructions that break down each step, making it approachable even if you’re newer to crochet but ready to try something a little different.

To make the process even smoother, the Tulip Blanket pattern includes a full step-by-step video tutorial. You’ll be guided through each row, stitch, and color change, so you can crochet with confidence. Whether you prefer written instructions or like to follow along with a video, everything you need is included to help you succeed.

This is the kind of project that’s just as fun to make as it is to give (or keep!). With its cheerful design and customizable size, the Tulip Blanket is a crochet pattern you’ll want to return to again and again. Get ready to create a cozy, eye-catching blanket that you’ll be proud to show off.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy to intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approximately 37” x 37” (34” x 34” without the border). Instructions for adjusting the size are included in the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: You can use any size 3 (light) or size 4 (medium) yarn in white, green, and pink (use the same yarn weight for all three colors). Size 3 makes a light, breezy blanket; size 4 makes it warmer and slightly thicker.

The pattern—including the finished size, amount of yarn required, hook sizes, gauge, and instructions—is the same for both yarn weights.

You’ll need approximately 775 yds of white, 190 yds of green, and 285 yds of pink (110 yds for the tulips, 175 yds for the border).

I used (as seen in the photos):

• White & Green: Impeccable by Loops & Threads in “White” and “Fern.” This yarn is size 4 and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. I used 3 skeins of “White” and 1 skein of “Fern.”
• Pink: Soft Classic Solid by Loops & Threads in “Mauve.” This yarn is size 4 and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g. I used 1 skein. 

Crochet Hook Sizes: A K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook for everything except Rows 7 & 8 and an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook for Rows 7 & 8.

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch-1 sp = chain one space
• ch-2 sp = chain two space
• ch/chs = chain/chains
• dc = double crochet
• dc2tog = double crochet two together
• hdc = half double crochet
• RS = right side/front
• sc = single crochet
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• WS = wrong side/back

Gauge

Exact sizing is not important for this pattern. For reference, making a swatch with only dc sts: 4” x 4” =  11 dc sts & 6 rows. To make a swatch: Ch 16. Row 1: In the third ch from the hook, dc. Dc in each ch across. Row 2: Ch 2 and turn. Dc in the first st and in each st across. Repeat Row 2 for 9 rows.

How to Adjust the Size

The number of starting chains determines the width and the number of rows determines the height. 

To adjust the width, make more or less starting chains in multiples of 3 + 5 (meaning to take any number that you can divide by 3 and then add 5 to that number – i.e. 30 + 5 = 35 starting chains required). 

To adjust the height, repeat Rows 2 – 9 more or less times until you are 2” away from your desired height, then complete the Blanket Body Finishing instructions for the last four rows. 

Pattern Notes

• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Your blanket body’s width may be much smaller at the start. If after Row 11, you are not happy with the width, you can start again with a different number of starting chains (refer to the How to Adjust the Size section).
• Your work may curl at the start but it will straighten out as you work on the blanket body. The corners of the blanket body may stay curled – that will be fixed once the border is added.  

Stitch Explanations

This pattern includes dc2tog sts. In this pattern, a dc2tog is always made in the same st or sp (it is not a decrease). If this st is new to you, here’s how to make it:

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog):

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated st or sp. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same st or sp. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed dc2tog counts as 1 st.

This pattern also includes tr sts. If this st is new to you, here’s how to make it: 

Triple/Treble Crochet (tr):

Yarn over (YO) twice, insert hook into the designated sp. YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on hook.

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down to view the written instructions.

For Border Rounds 2 – 5, the step-by-step tutorial is here: https://youtu.be/3l4lgIVKU2E (starting at 25:35). You’ll see a different blanket in that video but the instructions for Border Rounds 2 – 5 are exactly the same as the Tulip Blanket. 

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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How to Crochet the Tulip Blanket

Blanket Body Instructions

Start: With a K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook and white yarn, ch 101. Continue using a K/10.5 hook and white yarn until instructed to change.

For Row 1 (only), work into the back ridge loops. 

Row 1 (RS): In the third ch from the hook, dc. 

Dc in each ch across. 

(99 dc sts). 

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. 

In the first st, sc.

Sc in each st across.

(99 sc sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts). 

Row 3 (RS): Ch 2 and turn.

In the first st, dc. 

Dc in each st across.

(99 dc sts).

Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2. 

Row 5 (RS): Repeat Row 3. 

Row 6 (WS): Repeat Row 2.

Row 7 (RS): Change to an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook (you will use an H/8 hook for all of Row 7 & 8). 

With white yarn, ch 2 and turn. Attach green yarn: place green on your hook and pull it through the loop of white currently on your hook. Do not fasten off the white yarn (leave it hanging where it is). Use green yarn for all of Row 7. 

Sk the first st. 

In the next st, (dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog). 

*Ch 1. Sk the next 2 sts.

In the next st, (dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog).*

Repeat from * to * until there is 1 st left.

After working in the second last st, ch 2. 

Sl st in the last st. 

(66 dc2tog sts / 33 flowers). 

Note: when you add the border, the border will conceal the green ch-2 at the edge of the blanket. 

Fasten off green yarn: cut the green yarn that’s attached to your skein and pull the end through the loop that was on your hook. 

Row 8 (WS): Turn. Continue using an H/8 hook for all of Row 8.

Insert your hook into the first green ch-2 sp (between the 2 green dc2tog sts). Place pink yarn on your hook and pull it through the sp. Use pink for all of Row 8. 

Ch 2. In the same/first green ch-2 sp, hdc. 

*Ch 2. In the next green ch-2 sp, make 2 hdc.*

Repeat from * to * across. 

(65 hdc sts / 33 flowers). 

Fasten off pink yarn: cut the pink yarn that’s attached to your skein and pull the end through the loop that was on your hook.

Row 9 (RS): Turn. Change to a K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook.

Need help with this row? There are diagrams showing every step below this row’s written instructions. You can also refer to the step-by-step video tutorial.

Insert your hook into the sp between the starting white ch-2 from two rows below and the first green dc2tog from two rows below. 

Pick up white yarn: place the hanging white yarn on your hook and pull it through the sp. Continue using white yarn and a K/10.5 hook until instructed to change. 

Ch 3. In the same sp, dc. 

Next, you will work into the pink ch-2 sps from the previous row and into the green ch-1 sps from two rows below. When working into these sps, make your sts around chs to cover them. 

In the first pink ch-2 sp, dc2tog. 

In the first green ch-1 sp from two rows below, tr (around the green ch-1 and the pink ch-2). 

In the same pink ch-2 sp (where you made your first dc2tog), dc2tog.

*In the next pink ch-2 sp, dc2tog.

In the next green ch-1 sp from two rows below, tr (around the green ch-1 and the pink ch-2).

In the same pink ch-2 sp, dc2tog.*

Repeat from * to * across. 

In the last green ch-2 sp from two rows below (the sp between the last dc2tog from two rows below and the last ch-2 from two rows below), make 2 dc. 

(3 dc sts, 64 dc2tog sts and 32 tr sts = 99 sts). 

Row 10 and on: Repeat Rows 2 – 9 until your blanket body is 2” away from your desired height (you can repeat Rows 2 – 9 as many times as you would like). 

I completed Rows 2 – 9 a total of 9 times (I had a total of 73 rows before starting the Blanket Body Finishing) and my blanket body was 32” high before starting the Blanket Body Finishing. 

Blanket Body Finishing

After completing your last repeat of Rows 2 – 9, continue using white yarn and a K/10.5 hook and follow these instructions for the last four rows: 

Fourth Last Row (WS): Repeat Row 2.

Third Last Row (RS): Repeat Row 3.

Second Last Row (WS): Repeat Row 2.

Last Row (RS): Repeat Row 3. 

Blanket Border Instructions

Use a K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook for the entire border. 

Attach pink yarn: place pink on your hook and pull it through the loop of white currently on your hook. Fasten off white (cut the white yarn that’s attached to your skein). Use pink for the entire border.

Border Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn (the RS/front of your blanket should be facing you). 

Note: exact st count is not important.

SIDE (DOWN) – Make sc sts down the side, working into 1 loop or 2 of the sts at the end of the row except for the row of green where you’ll work around the green ch-2 sts: 

• In the first dc row, make 1 sc.
• For all ch-1 rows, make 1 sc.
• For all remaining dc rows, make 2 sc (1 sc into the top of the dc and 1 sc into the bottom).
• Skip all pink flower rows (no end sts to work into).
• For all green petal rows, make 2 sc around the green ch-2 to cover it. 

BOTTOM – In the first ch across the bottom, make 3 sc (first corner made). Sc in each ch across until there is 1 ch left. In the last ch, make 3 sc (second corner made).

SIDE (UP) – Make sc sts up the side, working into 1 loop or 2 of the sts at the end of each row, except for the row of green where you’ll work around the white ch-2 sts:

• In the first ch-2 row, make 1 sc.
• For all sc rows, make 1 sc.
• For all remaining ch-2 and ch-3 rows, make 2 sc (1 sc into the bottom of the ch-2 or ch-3 and 1 sc into the top).
• For all green petal rows, make 2 sc around the white ch-2 to cover it.
• Skip all pink flower rows (no end sts to work into).

TOP – In the first st across the top, make 3 sc (third corner made). Sc in each st across the top until there is 1 st left. In the last st, make 3 sc (fourth corner made).

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

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Note: For Border Rounds 2 – 4, the instructions refer to the “corner st.” The corner st is the middle sc st of the 3 sc sts made in the corner in the previous round. 

Border Round 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn.

Sk the st attached to the ch (this is the sl st that joined the previous round. This joining sl st never gets worked into). 

Sc in the next st. 

In the next st, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

*Sc in each st until the next corner st.

In the corner st, make 3 sc.*

Complete the instructions from * to * a total of 3 times. 

Sc in each st until back at the first st made in the round.

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Border Round 3 (RS): Ch 1 and turn. 

Sk the st attached to the ch.

*Sc in each st until the next corner st.

In the corner st, make 3 sc.*

Complete the instructions from * to * a total of 4 times. 

Sc in the next 2 sts. 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Tip: For Border Rounds 4 & 5, you may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the first st of the round and in each corner st.

Border Round 4 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn.

For Border Round 4 (only), sl st VERY loosely as you will work into the sl sts on the next round.

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), hdc. 

In the next st, sl st.

[*In the next st, hdc.

In the next st, sl st.*

Repeat from * to * until the corner st. 

The last st before the corner st should be a sl st. If your last st before the corner st is an hdc, make a sl st in the same st (so your last st before the corner will be (hdc, sl st) in the same st). 

In the corner st, make (hdc, sl st, hdc) in the same st.

In the next st, sl st.]

Complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 4 times.

*In the next st, hdc.

In the next st, sl st.*

Repeat from * to * until back at the first hdc made in the round. 

The last st before the first hdc made in the round should be a sl st. If your last st is an hdc, make a sl st in the same st (so your last st will be (hdc, sl st) in the same st).

Sl st (normally, not loosely) into the top of the first hdc made in the round to join. 

Your work may curl during this round but will straighten out after the next round. 

Border Round 5 (WS): Ch 1 and turn.

Sk the st attached to the ch. 

[*In the next st (the top of the sl st from the previous round), hdc. 

In the next st (the top of the hdc from the previous round), sl st.* (Sl st normally (not loosely) from now on).

Repeat from * to * until the corner st.

In the corner st, make (hdc, sl st, hdc) in the same st.

In the next st, sl st.]

Complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 4 times. 

*In the next st, hdc.

In the next st, sl st.*

Repeat from * to * until back at the first hdc made in the round.

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join. 

Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Blocking (Optional)

Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. To block your finished blanket, pin it on a blocking board with rust-proof pins, spray it with water and leave it to dry. Alternatively, you can briefly soak your blanket in water then pin it on a blocking board with rust-proof pins and leave it to dry.

And now you have a new tulip blanket!

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Make a set of matching coasters! View this Tulip Coaster Crochet Pattern.

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