Tulip Coaster – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tulip Coasters

If you’re looking for a fun and easy spring crochet project, you’ll love this Tulip Coaster Crochet Pattern! These crochet tulip coasters use simple stitches and once you get going, you can easily crochet a tulip coaster in about 30 minutes, making it a fun and fast project. The pattern includes detailed written instructions and a step-by-step video tutorial so you can confidently crochet your coasters from start to finish.

These crochet tulip coasters are wonderful for:

• Crochet patterns for spring
• Crochet Easter projects
• Year-round home decor ideas
• Quick crochet gifts
• Fun crochet coaster patterns

Tulips are one of my favorite flowers, so I had so much fun designing these coasters. I love how bright and cheerful tulips feel after a long winter, and I wanted to create a crochet pattern that captures that same springtime feeling.

These coasters are also a great way to use up small amounts of scrap yarn, and because they work up so quickly, it’s easy to make a whole set in no time. They’re perfect for crocheting multiples to give as gifts or even to sell at craft shows.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

The skill level is easy to intermediate. 

Size

The pattern creates a coaster that is approximately 6” across. 

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn. For each coaster, you will need approximately:

• White (Color A – background) = 18 yds.
• Green (Color B – flower petals) = 7 yds. 
• Pink (Color C – tulips & border) = 15 yds. 

I used Soft Classic yarn by Loops & Threads in the colors: A) “White,” B) “Sage” (green) and C) “Mauve” (pink). This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g.

Crochet Hook Size: G/7 (4.50 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. Optional: a stitch marker.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• dc = double crochet
• dc2tog = double crochet two together
• hdc = half double crochet
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet 
• sl st = slip stitch
• sk = skip
• sp/sps = space/spaces 
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• WS = wrong side

Gauge

Exact sizing is not important. For reference, after Round 2, your work should measure 1.75” across. 

Pattern Notes

• Chains never count as stitches.
• The slip stitch that joins the round never gets worked into or counted as a stitch.
• Fasten off always means to cut the yarn that’s attached your skein and pull the end through the loop that was on your hook. 
• Your work may curl during the first several rounds but it should lay flat after Round 7.
• You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the first stitch made in every round. 

Stitch Explanation

On Round 3, you will make dc2tog sts. In this pattern, a dc2tog is always made in the same st (it is not a decrease). 

If this st is new to you, here’s how to make it:

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog):

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same st. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed dc2tog counts as 1 st.

Color Legend

The written instructions refer to the color names (white, green and pink) for clarity. To use different colors, substitute them for Color A, B and C.

• White = Color A – background
• Green = Color B – flower petals
• Pink = Color C – tulips & border

Note: In the video tutorial, the yarn colors are referred to as Color A, B & C. In the video, I’ve used grey yarn instead of white for Color A for better visibility. 

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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Pattern Instructions

Start: With white (Color A), make a Magic Circle.

Continue using white until instructed to change. 

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Make 8 hdc into the Magic Circle.

Sl st into the top of the first hdc of the round to join.

(8 hdc sts. Reminder: chs and the joining sl st never count as sts)

Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn.

In the first st, 2 hdc.

Make 2 hdc in each st around. 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc of the round to join.

(16 hdc sts) 

Fasten off white.

Reminder: your work may curl for the first several rounds but should lay flat after Round 7.

Round 3 (RS): Do not turn your work (the RS is facing you). Attach green (Color B): insert your hook into the first st. Place green on your hook and pull it through the st. Use green for all of Round 3. 

Ch 2. In the same (first) st, dc.

Ch 2. In the same (first) st, dc2tog. 

Ch 1. Sk the next st. 

*In the next st, (dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog). 

Ch 1. Sk the next st.* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc of the round to join.

There’s a ch-1 and a skipped st between the last dc2tog and the joining sl st.

(1 dc + 15 dc2tog sts = 16 sts)

Note: There are 8 green ch-2 sps that you will work into on Round 4 and 8 green ch-1 sps that you will work into on Round 5.

Fasten off green.

Round 4 (WS): Turn your work so the WS is facing you.

Attach pink (Color C): insert your hook into the first green ch-2 sp. Place pink on your hook and pull it through the sp. Use pink for all of Round 4.

Ch 1. In the same (first) green ch-2 sp, 3 hdc.

Ch 3. 

*In the next green ch-2 sp, 3 hdc.

Ch 3.*

Repeat from * to * around. 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc of the round to join.

There’s a ch-3 between the last hdc and the joining sl st.

(24 hdc sts)

Note: there are 8 pink ch-3 sps that you will work into on Round 5.

Fasten off pink. 

Next, you will work into the pink ch-3 sps from the previous round and into the green ch-1 sps from two rounds below. When working into these sps, make your sts around chs to cover them.

Round 5 (RS): Turn your work so the RS is facing you. Attach white (Color A): insert your hook into the first pink ch-3 sp. Place white on your hook and pull it through the sp. Use white until instructed to change. 

Ch 1. In the same (first) pink ch-3 sp, 2 dc. 

In the first green ch-1 sp from two rounds below, 2 dc. 

In the same (first) pink ch-3 sp, 2 dc. 

*In the next pink ch-3 sp, 2 dc. 

In the next green ch-1 sp from two rounds below, 2 dc.

In the same pink ch-3 sp, 2 dc.*

Repeat from * to * around. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc of the round to join. 

(48 dc sts) 

Round 6 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn.

Sc in the first 5 sts. 

In the next st, 2 sc.

*Sk the next st. 

In the next st, 2 sc.

Sc in the next 3 sts.

In the next st, 2 sc.*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st into the top of the first sc of the round to join.

(56 sc sts) 

Fasten off white. 

Round 7 (RS): Do not turn.

Attach pink (Color C): insert your hook into the first st. Place pink on your hook and pull it through the st. Use pink for the rest of the pattern.

Ch 1. In the same (first) st, 2 sc.

Sc in the next 6 sts.

*In the next st, 2 sc.

Sc in the next 6 sts.*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st into the top of the first sc of the round to join.

(64 sc sts)

Round 8 (WS): Ch 1 and turn so the WS is facing you.

Sk the first st (this is the joining sl st that never gets worked into).

*In the next st, sl st.

In the next st, hdc.*

Repeat from * to * around.

Sl st into the first sl st of the round to join. 

(32 sl sts + 32 hdc sts = 64 sts) 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

And now you have a new tulip coaster! 

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