Wine Glass Jacket – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Wine Glass Jacket

If you are searching for funny crochet gift ideas for friends, look no further than this fun, adorable, quick and easy Wine Glass Jacket Crochet Pattern!

It’s a perfect crochet gift for a wine drinker or someone who has everything. I can almost guarantee your gift recipient does not have a jacket for their wine glass! And in the minuscule chance they do…does theirs have a purse?!)

The occasions you can make this cute pattern for are endless. It’s a wonderful stocking stuffer, Christmas gift or birthday gift.

A quick warning though, you’ll probably end up making some for yourself too! That’s what happened to me. I made some for friends and then I wanted a set for myself. A half a dozen jackets later, all my wine glasses are cute and cozy on the shelf wearing different colored jackets! 🙂

If you like crocheting for craft shows, these would be a huge hit at markets and fairs. It’s one of the most unique and unusual crochet patterns I’ve come across and can be used all year long.

These crochet wine jackets work up really quickly and use only a little bit of yarn (perfect for scrap-busting). The pattern is very easy and includes detailed written instructions as well as a step-by-step video tutorial.

You can use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the free pattern.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a jacket for a standard wine glass (approx. 10” – 11” around). The finished jacket is approx. 4” wide and 3.5” high (not including the sleeves or collar).

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic yarn. You will need approx.:

• 55 yds for the jacket and sleeves
• 11 yds for the purse
• 2 yds for the center of the flower
• 4 yds for the flower petals

I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads. For the jacket and sleeves, I used the colors: “Misty Blue,” “Green Lagoon,” and “Plum.” For the purse, I used “Soft Taupe.” For the flower, I used “Butterscotch” (for the center) and “White” (for the petals)  This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g.

Crochet Hook Size: For the jacket, sleeves and purse: H/8 (5.00 mm). For the flower: E/4 (3.75 mm). 

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet 
• RS = right side (front)
• WS = wrong side (back)
• BLO = back loops only

Gauge

After Round 3, work (when folded) should measure 4” across. 

Pattern Notes

• Chains never count as stitches. 

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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Pattern Instructions

Jacket Body

Use the color you would like for the jacket body and sleeves and an H/8 (5.00 mm) crochet hook. 

Body Start: Ch 18.

Sl st into the first ch to join, being careful not to twist the ch sts. 

Body Round 1 (RS): Ch 2. Do not turn (continue working in the same direction. Your first st will be in the first ch made at the start, the same ch you made a sl st into to join). 

In the first ch, 2 dc.

Dc in the next 8 chs. 

In the next ch, 2 dc.

Dc in the next 8 chs.

(20 dc sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

If necessary, adjust your work so the front of your sts are on the front/outside of your work. The Body Round 1 was a RS round, meaning that the front/outside of your work should be facing you. (On WS rounds, the back/inside of your work will be facing you). 

Body Round 2 (WS): Ch 2 and turn.

Sk the st attached to the ch-2 (this is the sl st that joined the previous round, which never gets worked into and never counted as st). 

*In the next st, 2 dc.

Dc in the next 3 sts.*

Repeat from * to * around. (25 dc sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first dc to join. 

Body Round 3 (RS): Ch 2 and turn. 

Sk the st attached to the ch-2. 

Dc in the next st and in each st around. (25 dc sts).

Sl st into the top of the first dc to join. 

After Round 3, work (when folded) should measure 4” across. If not, start again with a different hook size. 

Body Rounds 4 (WS) and 5 (RS): Repeat Body Round 3.

Body Round 6 (WS): Ch 2 and turn. 

Sk the st attached to the ch-2. 

Dc in the next st and in each st around. (25 dc sts).

Do not join. 

Body Round 7 (RS): Ch 2 and turn. 

Dc in the first st (the st attached to the ch-2). 

Dc in each st around. (25 dc sts).

Do not join. 

For Body Round 8, you will be working into the back loops only (BLO), which are the loops furthest away from you. 

Body Round 8 (WS): Ch 2 and turn.

In the BLO of the first st (the st attached to the ch-2), 

2 dc.

*In the BLO of the next st, dc. 

In the BLO of the next st, 2 dc.*

Repeat from * to * around.  (38 dc sts).

Do not join. 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Sleeves

Use the same color as you used for the Jacket Body and an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook. 

Leave a 12” starting tail. 

Sleeve Start: Ch 8. 

Sl st into the first ch to join being careful not to twist the ch sts.

Sleeve Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn (continue working in the same direction. Your first st will be in the first ch made at the start, the same ch you made a sl st into to join). 

In the first ch, hdc. 

Hdc in each ch around. (8 hdc sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join. 

If necessary, adjust your work so the front of your sts are on the front/outside of your work. 

Sleeve Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), hdc. 

Hdc in each st around. (8 hdc sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Sleeve Rounds 3-9: Repeat Sleeve Round 2. 

After Sleeve Round 9, the sleeve should measure approx. 4” long. Leave a 12” ending tail and fasten off. 

Make 2 sleeves in total. Note: I did not use stuffing for the inside of the sleeves.

ATTACH THE SLEEVES

Using the 12” tails and a yarn needle, attach the sleeves with one end on “the shoulder” and one end on “a pocket.” 

For the shoulder, I attached one end in between Body Rounds 5 and 6, approx. 3” away from the middle (where you started/ended each round).  

For the pocket, I attached the other end in between Body Rounds 2 and 3, approx. 3” away from the middle. 

Attach all around the sleeve opening. 

Weave in loose ends.

Purse

Use the color you would like for the purse and an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook.

Leave a 12” starting tail. 

Purse Start: Make a Magic Circle.

Purse Round 1: Ch 1. Make 15 dc into the Magic Circle. (15 dc sts). Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

For Round 2, you will be working into the BLO. 

Purse Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn.

In the BLO of the first st (the st attached to the ch), hdc. 

Hdc in the BLO of each st around.

(15 hdc sts). 

Sl st into both loops of the top of the first hdc to join.

Work in both loops from now on. 

Purse Round 3 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), hdc.

Hdc in each st around.

(15 hdc sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Purse Round 4 (RS): Repeat Purse Round 3.

After Purse Round 4, do not fasten off. 

Purse Strap Start: Ch 15 (or any number of chs for the purse strap – there’s no multiple required). 

Purse Strap Row 1: In the second ch from the hook, sc. 

Sc in each ch. (14 sc sts). 

Sl st into the same st on the purse (the first st from Purse Round 4 and that you made a sl st into when joining Purse Round 4).

Fasten off and weave in the ending tail (not the 12” starting tail). 

You will use the 12” starting tail and a yarn needle to attach the strap to the other side of the purse. 

First, weave the 12” starting tail under sts, in the inside of the purse so it is in the correct position, directly opposite from the other side of the strap. 

Next, and this is IMPORTANT! You need to place the purse strap on the sleeve with the strap undone and THEN sew the other side of the strap. 

Using the 12” starting tail, attach the strap to the purse (I placed the purse on the left sleeve (left = when the jacket is facing you)). 

Weave in all loose ends. 

Flower

Use a E/4 (3.75 mm) hook. 

Flower Start: With the color you would like for the center of the flower, make a Magic Circle. Continue using the same color for Round 1. 

Flower Round 1 (RS): Ch 1.

Make 6 hdc into the Magic Circle. (6 hdc sts).

Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc. 

Fasten off (meaning to cut the yarn that’s attached to the skein and pull the tail through the loop that was on your hook). 

Flower Round 2 (RS): Attach the color you would like for the flower petals: insert your hook into the first st (the same st that just joined with a sl st). Place the new color on your hook and pull it through the st. 

Ch 1. Do not turn. 

In the same (first) st, hdc. 

Sl st in the same st (first petal made). 

*In the next st, (sl st, hdc, sl st) in the same st (next petal made).*

Repeat from * to * around. 

(6 petals made). 

Working into the sl st that joined the previous round, (sl st, hdc, sl st) in the same st (seventh petal made).

Sl st into the first st from the previous round (the same st you worked into when you made your first petal). 

Fasten off, leaving a 12” tail.

Weave in all other loose ends, except the 12” ending tail.

With your yarn needle and using the 12” ending tail, attach the flower (I placed it near the collar on the right side of the jacket (right = when the jacket is facing you)).

Weave in loose ends. 

And now you have a new wine glass jacket!

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