Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder - Free Crochet Pattern

Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder Crochet Pattern

Crochet Freeze Pop Holders

One of the best parts about crochet is that you can create really useful items. In the summertime, my kids go nuts for freezies but their little hands get cold so quickly holding them.

Last year, I designed this Flower Freeze Pop Holder and now my girls can’t eat a freeze pop without it!

Flower Freeze Pop Holder Crochet Pattern

Since not all kids are crazy about flowers, I wanted to create a new freeze pop holder pattern.

I’m so excited to share this fun, fast and simple pattern for a Crocodile Crochet Freeze Pop Holder!

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Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder Free Crochet Pattern

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Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a holder that is approx. 4.5” long and 1.75” wide not including the tail or mouth.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn – I recommend using a yarn that is easily washable. (I used Impeccable, Solid by Loops & Threads. This yarn is size 4 (medium) weight and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g.). You will need approx. 30 yds of green (I used the color “Fern) and a few yds of white.

Crochet Hook: F/5 (3.75 mm).

Other Materials: 2 stitch markers, yarn needle, scissors, 2 Googly eyes and a glue gun.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart.

Abbrevations

ch = chain
st = stitch
sts = stitches
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet two together
YO = yarn over
PM = place stitch marker

Gauge

1” x 1” = 4 sc and 4 rounds (following the instructions for the body).

Pattern Notes

Always work into the 1st stitch, the stitch attached to the chain unless instructed to skip it.
Chains never count as stitches.
When the pattern says: Across the 1st 2 sts, sc2tog, what this means is to insert your hook into the 1st st and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert your hook into the next (the 2nd) st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
When the pattern says: Across the last 2 sts, sc2tog, what this means is to insert your hook into the 2nd last st and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert your hook into the last st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
When working into any chain stitches throughout the pattern, work into the top loop.

Special Stitches

Bobble = Make 5 double crochet stitches together in the same stitch.

YO, insert your hook into the next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (4 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (5 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (7 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (6 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through all 6 loops on hook.

Please note: This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be copied, shared, altered or sold on your own. You are welcome to sell the finished product but please include a link (if online) and reference jototheworld.com.

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Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder Crochet Pattern Instructions

Tail

Start: With green yarn, chain 2.

Row 1: In the 2nd ch from hook, sc. (1 st).

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. In the 1st st, 2 sc. (2 sts).

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 2 sts. (2 sts).

Row 4: Repeat Row 3.

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. 2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next st. (3 sts).

Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 3 sts. (3 sts).

Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. 2 sc in the next st. Sc in the next 2 sts. (4 sts).

Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 4 sts. (4 sts) Do not turn. Ch 9. Being careful not to twist the chain stitches, sl st into the 1st sc made in the row. Do not fasten off.

Body

Round 1: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the next 4 sts. Sc in the next 9 chains. (13 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the next 8 sts. *PM in top of last sc made. Make Foot: Ch 2. In the 2nd ch from hook, sl st. Ch 3. In the 3rd ch from hook, sl st. Sl st into the same st as the last sc (where the stitch marker is – leave stitch marker there).* Sc in the next 3 sts. Repeat instructions from * to *. Sc in the next 2 sts. Sl st into 1st sc to join.

Round 3: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in each st around. When you get to a foot, push it down (towards you) so it’s out of the way and only work into the sc st with the stitch marker (you can then remove the stitch marker). (13 sts). Sl st into 1st sc to join.

Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in each st around. (13 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join.

Round 5: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sk the 1st st (the st attached to the ch). Sc in the next 12 sts. The next st is a sl st from the previous round. Sc into the sl st. (13 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join.

Rounds 6 – 13: Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 consecutively.

Note: the purpose of alternating where the rounds started is to help the seam be straight, which effects the feet placement in the next round. Depending on how your stitches have lined up, you may need to adjust where you do the feet. Just ensure there are 3 sc sts between the two feet and there are 13 sc sts in total for the round.

Round 14: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the next 7 sts. *PM in top of last sc made. Make Foot: Ch 2. In the 2nd ch from hook, sl st. Ch 3. In the 3rd ch from hook, sl st. Sl st into the same st as the last sc (where the stitch marker is – leave stitch marker there).* Sc in the next 3 sts. Repeat instructions from * to *. Sc in the next 3 sts. Sl st into 1st sc to join.

Round 15: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in each st around. When you get to a foot, push it down (towards you) so it’s out of the way and only work into the sc st with the stitch marker (you can then remove the stitch marker). (13 sts). Sl st into 1st sc to join.

In the next round, you will create two “eye sockets” by making Bobble stitches. The eye sockets should be on the opposite side of the legs. The next round starts by shifting where you begin to sc to ensure the eye sockets can be in the right place. You are welcome to adjust your placement of the eye sockets if needed. Just ensure there are 2 sc sts between the two Bobbles (and 13 sts in total for the round).

Round 16: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the 1st st. Sl st into the next st. Ch 1. Working into the next st (not the current stitch attached to the ch), sc. Sc in the next 7 sts. In the next st, Bobble. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the next st, Bobble. Sc in the next st (which is a sl st). (13 sts) Sl st into the 1st sc to join. Do not fasten off.

Top of Mouth

Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 7 sts. Leave the rest of the sts unworked. (7 sts).

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 7 sts. (7 sts).

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Across the 1st 2 sts, sc2tog. Sc in the next 3 sts. Across the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (5 sts).

Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 5 sts. (5 sts).

Row 5: Repeat Row 4.

Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. Across the 1st 2 sts, sc2tog. Sc in the next st. Across the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (3 sts).

Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 3 sts. (3 sts).

Row 8: Repeat Row 7.

Fasten off.

Bottom of Mouth

With the belly facing you, attach green yarn with a slip stitch to the right hand corner of the mouth in the 1st empty stitch below the top of the mouth.

Row 1: Ch 1. Sc in the same st as the sl st. Sc in the next 5 sts. (6 sts).

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in next 6 sts. (6 sts).

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Across the 1st 2 sts, sc2tog. Sc in the next 2 sts. Across the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts).

Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 4 sts. (4 sts).

Row 5: Repeat Row 4.

Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. Across the 1st 2 sts, sc2tog. Across the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (2 sts).

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

Teeth

Flip the crocodile over so the belly is facing up and the mouth is facing you. Attach white yarn with a sl st to the right bottom corner stitch, working in the top loop only (so the stitch doesn’t come through the bottom / outside).

Top Teeth

Work into the top loops only (the loops on the inside of the mouth).

Ch 1. Sl st into the next st. *Ch 2. In the 2nd ch from hook, sl st. Sl st in the next st.* Repeat from * to * until you get to the opposite mouth corner. Do not fasten off.

Bottom Teeth

Continuing in the same direction but now on the bottom of the mouth. Keep working into the top loops only (the loops on the inside of the mouth).

Ch 1. Sl st in the next st. *Ch 2. Sl st into the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st into the 1st sl st of the top teeth to join.

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.