Easy Crochet Tissue Box Cover – Free Pattern

Crochet Tissue Box Cover

During the holidays, I love to decorate my tissue boxes with festive crochet tissue box covers.

I’ve made crochet tissue box cover patterns for Valentine’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas.

(You can find the free patterns here: Valentine’s Day Crochet Tissue Box Cover, Easter Crochet Tissue Box Cover, Crochet Turkey Tissue Dispenser & Christmas Crochet Tissue Box Cover).

But after the holidays, my tissue boxes look so bare! I wanted to design a crochet tissue box cover that matched my home decor and could cover my tissue boxes year-round.

I’m excited to share this Easy Crochet Tissue Box Cover Pattern with you. It’s a simple pattern that uses only slip stitches, half double crochet stitches and single crochet stitches.

The pattern alternates between slip stitches and half double crochet stitches, which creates a stunning texture that looks like a complicated advanced stitch but it’s not! The texture is made just by alternating those two basic stitches.

It’s also very quick to make (approx. 2 hours). You can use any size 4 (medium) yarn so you can pick any color that would go well in your home.

This pattern also makes a wonderful gift. Who doesn’t want their tissue boxes to look better?!

If you have a loved one who has a cold and is cradling a box of tissues, cheer them up with a custom tissue box cover that was made with love.

Keep scrolling down for the free pattern, which includes written instructions and diagrams. And to ensure you can easily follow along, there’s also a step-by-step video tutorial.

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Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Crochet Tissue Box Cover Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern is designed to cover a tissue box that is 9” wide, 3.5” high and 4.75” deep. The finished pattern is slightly bigger.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approx. 150 yds in total. I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads in the color “Green Lagoon” (and “Gold” in some photos). This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. I used one skein.

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape and a tissue box (the size is listed above).  

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet 
• RS = right side 
• WS = wrong side 
• BLO = back loops only 

Gauge

4” x 4” = 14 sts and 15 rows. To make a swatch, ch 21. Follow the pattern for Row 1 and Row 2. Repeat Row 2 until the height of your swatch measures 5”. 

Preparing Your Yarn

Before starting the pattern, set aside 6 yds (approx. 6 arm lengths) of yarn from your main skein. This 6-yard strand will be used to make Section B of the top. 

Pattern Notes

• Always work into the first stitch (the stitch attached to the chain) unless instructed otherwise. 
• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Always slip stitch VERY loosely as you will be working into the slip stitch on the following row/round. The only exception to this is when you are joining a round with a slip stitch – the pattern indicates when to make a regular (not loose) slip stitch. 

Crochet Tissue Box Cover – Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial here or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Crochet Tissue Box Cover Pattern Instructions

Tissue Box Cover Top

Reminder: set aside a 6 yd strand of yarn.

Start: With your main skein, chain 31.

For Row 1 (only) work into the back ridge loops. 

Row 1 (RS): In the second ch from hook, sl st (reminder: always sl st VERY loosely). In the next ch, hdc. *In the next ch, sl st. In the next ch, hdc.* Repeat from * to * across. (30 sts).

For the rest of the pattern, you will always make a sl st into the top of a hdc st from the previous row/round and you will always make a hdc st into the top of a sl st from the previous row/round.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. *In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.* Repeat from * to * across. (30 sts. Reminder: chains never count as sts.). 

After Row 2, work should measure 8.75” wide and .75” high. If your work measures differently, start again with a different hook size. 

Rows 3 – 6: Repeat Row 2.

After Row 6, work should measure 8.75” wide and 1.75” high. 

Top – Section A

Row 7a (RS): Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 2 (meaning to complete the instructions in brackets a total of 2 times). Leave the rest of the sts in the row unworked. (6 sts). 

Row 8a (WS): Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 2. (6 sts). 

Rows 9a – 12a: Repeat Row 8a. 

Top – Section B

Row 7b (RS): Turn. (RS will now be facing up and the last st made on Row 12a will be on the right). Attach with a sl st (regularly, not loosely) the 6 yd strand that you set aside on the 25th st of the row (6 sts from the end. There will be a gap of 18 sts between Section A and Section B). Ch 1. Sl st in same st. In the next st, hdc. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 2. (6 sts). 

Row 8b (WS): Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 2. (6 sts). 

Rows 9b – 12b: Repeat Row 8b. 

After Row 12b, fasten off the 6 yd strand. (You can trim the 6 yd strand if necessary. Leave a long enough tail to weave in the end). 

Tissue Box Cover Top (Continued)

Row 13 (RS): Insert hook into the loop attached to the last st made on Section A, Row 12a. Ch 1 and turn (RS will now be facing up). In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 2. Ch 18. Sl st into the first st from Section B (the top of the last hdc completed in Row 12b). In the next st, hdc. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 2. (12 sts and 18 chains).

Row 14 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 2. *In the back ridge loop of the next ch, sl st. In the back ridge loop of the next ch, hdc.* Repeat from * to * across the 18 chains. [In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.] x 3. (30 sts). 

Row 15 (RS): Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. *In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.* Repeat from * to * across. (30 sts).

Rows 16 – 18: Repeat Row 15. 

After Row 18, work should measure 8.75” wide and 5.25” high.

For the next row, you will work all the way around the tissue box top. 

Row 19 (RS): Ch 1 and turn. 

TOP: In the first st, make 2 sc in the same st. Sc in the next 28 sts. In the last st (across the top), make 2 sc in the same st. 

SIDE (DOWN): Make 16 sc sts that are evenly spaced out down the side, working into the sts (not the spaces) at the end of each row (either into 1 loop or 2). 

BOTTOM: In the first ch, make 2 sc in the same ch. Sc in the next 28 chains. In the last ch (across the bottom), make 2 sc in the same ch. 

SIDE (UP): Make 16 sc sts that are evenly spaced out up the side, working into the sts (not the spaces) at the end of each row (either into 1 loop or 2).

(Total stitch count: 96 sts). 

Sl st (regularly, not loosely) into the top of the first sc made in the round to join. 

The finished top should measure 9.25” wide and 5.5” high. It should be slightly bigger than the top of the tissue box. 

Tissue Box Cover Sides

The pattern now changes to rounds and resets to make it easier to count rounds from the top. 

For the next round, you will work into the back loops only (BLO), which are the loops furthest away from you. 

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. In the BLO of the first st (the st attached to the ch), sl st. In the BLO of the next st, hdc. *In the BLO of the next st, sl st. In the BLO of the next st, hdc.* Repeat from * to * around. (96 sts). Sl st (regularly, not loosely) into both loops of the first sl st made in the round to join. (Work in both loops from now on). 

From now on, you will turn after each round. On RS rounds, the front/outside of your work will be facing you. On WS rounds, the back/inside of your work will be facing you. 

Round 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. Do not work into the st attached to the ch (that is the sl st that joined the previous round). The first st is the top of the last hdc completed in the previous round. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. *In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.* Repeat from * to * around. (96 sts). Sl st (regularly, not loosely) into the first sl st made in the round to join. 

Round 3 and on: Repeat Round 2 until the height of the sides measures 3.5” from the top. (I repeated Round 2 a total of 11 times). You can end after any round (it doesn’t matter if it’s a RS or WS round). 

After the height of your work measures 3.5” high, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

Bottom Straps (Optional)

If you find the tissue box cover doesn’t stay securely on the box, you can make straps for the corners. 

To make a strap: Chain 10. Fasten off. With your yarn needle, attach one end of the strap to the last round of the tissue box sides approx. 7 sts away from the corner. Attach the other end to the opposite side of the corner (so there are 14 sts between the ends). Weave in loose ends. 

You can adjust the number of chains and the number of stitches between the ends if needed. 

Repeat for each corner. 

And now you have a new tissue box cover!

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