How to Crochet a Purse (Moss Stitch Purse – Free Pattern)

Easy Crochet Purse

I absolutely love making crochet purses and bags. They are practical projects that enhance your wardrobe and actually get used. Crochet bags also make wonderful gifts and sell well at craft shows.

You can make crochet purses for adults and kids. My girls are obsessed with purses and wear the bags I’ve made for them all the time.

If you want to learn how to crochet a purse or searching for an easy crochet purse pattern, you’ve come to the right place! In this pattern, which creates a Moss Stitch Purse, you will learn how to make a crochet purse from start to finish.

Moss Stitch Crochet Purse Pattern

This Moss Stitch Crochet Purse Pattern is very easy and quick to make so you can make many crochet purses in a short period of time. You can make this purse in different colors to match any outfit in your wardrobe.

This Moss Stitch Purse Pattern is quite similar to my Crochet Tote Bag Pattern except that it’s much smaller and has a flap. Both patterns use the Moss Stitch, which is a very easy stitch that combines single crochet and chain stitches.

The Moss Stitch works up really quickly and looks beautiful when complete. I especially like this stitch for the purse strap as I find it stretches less than other stitches. I’ve used 100% acrylic yarn but if you want the strap to stretch even less, you could use cotton yarn.

The pattern is made with two strands of yarn held together the entire time. If you haven’t done this before, don’t be intimidated! Simply hold two strands at once, treat them as one strand and crochet normally. It’s okay if they twist around each other. Using two strands at once creates a sturdy, dense fabric, which is perfect for a purse.

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Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Crochet Purse Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a purse that is approx. 8″ wide and 5.5″ high (with the flap closed). You can make the strap any length (suggested lengths are included in the strap section of the pattern). 

Materials

This pattern is worked with two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern so you can either separate your yarn manually or use multiple skeins. You can use any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approx. 370 yds / 180 g in total (185 yds / 90 g and 185 yds / 90 g when separated). 

I used Patons Canadiana in the colors Rosette, Mediterranean Blue, and Medium Green Tea. This yarn is 100% acrylic. A skein is 205 yds / 187 m and 3.5 oz / 100 g. 

Crochet Hook Size: K/10.5 (6.50 mm) 

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. Optional: a purse button snap/clasp, sewing needle, thread and a 38 mm button. 

For this Moss Stitch Purse, I chose to add a snap to keep it secure and ensure nothing falls out. I do find this particular purse snap a little challenging to separate easily. I also added a decorative button to the front.

I used these purse snaps/clasps and these buttons, which I got from Amazon.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches 
• sk = skip 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• ch-1 sp = chain one space
• ch-2 sp = chain two space

Gauge

After Round 3, work should measure 8” long and 2” high. 

Pattern Notes

• Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern, treating them as one strand and crocheting normally. 
• Always put a stitch marker in the top of the first single crochet stitch of every round to help ensure you start and end in the right place and you have the correct number of stitches. 
• Chains never count as stitches. 

Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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How to Crochet a Purse Step by Step

Purse Bottom

Leave a 30” starting tail (you can use this to fix any gaps along the bottom). 

Start: With two strands of yarn held together, chain 19. Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern.

Round 1: In the second chain from hook, 2 sc (reminder: always place a stitch marker in the top of the first st of the round). Sc in the next 16 chains. In the last ch, 5 sc. Working into the other side of the chain, sc in the next 16 chains. In the last ch, 2 sc. (41 sc sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Round 2: Ch 1. Do not turn. In the first st, 2 sc. Sc in the next 18 sts. 2 sc in the next 3 sts. Sc in the next 17 sts. 2 sc in the next 2 sts. (47 sc sts. Reminder: chains never count as sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Round 3: Ch 1. Do not turn. In the first st, 2 sc. In the next st, 2 sc. Sc in the next 19 sts. 2 sc in the next 5 sts. Sc in the next 19 sts. 2 sc in the next 2 sts. (56 sc sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

After Round 3, work should measure 8” long and 2” high. Measurements don’t need to be exact.

Do not fasten off. The round numbers will now reset to make it easier to count rounds from the bottom up.

Note: As you work on the purse body, you will notice that the right side (the top) of the bottom you just completed will be facing down and will be on the outside bottom. 

Purse Body

Round 1: Ch 1. Do not turn. (Reminder: always place a stitch marker in the top of the first st). In the first st, sc in the back loops only (the loops furthest away from you). Sc in the back loops only of each st around. (56 sc sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Round 2: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the first st. *Ch 1. Sk the next st. Sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around until there is 1 st left. Ch 1. Sk the last st. (28 sc sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Note: every time you ch 1 and sk a st, you are creating a “chain one space” (ch-1 sp) that you will work into on the next round.

Round 3: Sl st into the first ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the same ch-1 sp as the sl st. *Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp.* Repeat from * to * around. (28 sc sts). After your last sc, do not ch 1. Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Note: every time you ch 1 and sc into a ch-1 sp, you are creating a new ch-1 sp that you will work into on the next round. 

Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the first st (the top of the first sc from the previous round). *Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp.* Repeat from * to * around. (28 sc sts). After your last sc, there is a slight gap but it is not a ch-1 sp and doesn’t get worked into. After your last sc, ch 1. Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Round 5 – 16: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 consecutively. 

After Round 16, your work should measure 5” high.

If you want to adjust the height, you can repeat Rounds 3 and 4 fewer or more times. Ensure you end after repeating a Round 4. 

Do not fasten off. 

Purse Flap

Row 1: Ch 2. Do not turn. Sc in the first ch-1 sp (the space between your chains and the sc creates a ch-2 sp, which you will work into on the next row). *Ch 1. Sc in the next ch-1 sp (this creates a ch-1 sp that you will work into on the next row).* Repeat from * to * a total of 11 times. (12 sc sts). Leave the rest of the sts unworked.

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn. Sc in the first ch-1 sp (this creates a new ch-2 sp). *Ch 1. In the next ch-1 sp from the previous row, sc (new ch-1 sp created).* Repeat from * to * across row until the ch-2 sp at the end. Ch 1. In the ch-2 sp (the space between the two starting chains and the last sc from the previous row), sc. (12 sc sts). 

Row 3 – 15: Repeat Row 2.

After Row 15, the flap should measure 5” from the purse body. 

If you want to adjust the height of the flap, repeat Row 2 fewer or more times. You can end after any row. 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. If you have unwanted gaps along the bottom, you can use the 30” starting tail to tighten any gaps. 

Purse Strap

You can make the strap any length. Here are some suggested strap lengths: 

• Kids Shoulder Bag = 33″
• Adult Shoulder Bag = 44″
• Adult Cross-Body Bag = 55″

Start: Leave a 12” starting tail. With two strands of yarn, chain 5. 

Row 1: In the third chain from hook, sc (ch-2 sp created). Ch 1. Sk the next ch. In the last ch, sc (ch-1 sp created). (2 sc sts). 

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn. Sc in the first ch-1 sp (new ch-2 sp created). Ch 1. Sc in the ch-2 sp (new ch-1 sp created). (2 sc sts). 

Row 3 and on: Repeat Row 2 until you reach your desired strap length. 

After reaching your desired strap length, fasten off, leaving a 12” ending tail.

Attaching the Straps

The straps go on the inside of the purse, on the sides, 2” below the top of the purse body. Using the tails (one strand at a time) and yarn needle, attach the strap ends to the inside of the purse, only working into the backs of stitches to ensure the yarn does not show through the front. Attach all around. Weave in loose ends. 

Purse Finishing (Optional)

Using a sewing needle and thread, attach a purse snap/clasp to the bag with one piece on the inside of the flap and the other on the outside of the bag body. 

For an added touch, sew a decorative large (38 mm) button to the front centre of the flap. 

And now you have a new purse!

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