Black and White Striped Squares Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Black and White Crochet Blanket Pattern

Dive into the world of crochet with this striking, modern, and utterly unique blanket pattern. Whether you’re crafting a snuggly baby blanket for a cherished little one or a stylish throw to adorn your living space, this pattern promises to captivate with its timeless yet contemporary elegance.

The bold contrasts of black and white stripes create a mesmerizing design. However, don’t feel confined by convention – feel free to explore a myriad of color combinations to suit your taste and décor.

The beauty of this pattern lies not only in its aesthetic appeal but also in its adaptability. No need to worry about conforming to a specific size – this pattern is easily adjustable to accommodate your desired dimensions. Whether you envision a petite blanket to cradle a newborn or a grand masterpiece to adorn a king-sized bed, the choice is yours.

This pattern isn’t just visually stunning; it’s also incredibly easy to follow, thanks to its detailed, step-by-step instructions and diagrams. So, gather two colors of yarn, pick up your crochet hook, and embark on a journey to making a stunning crochet blanket that is sure to leave a lasting impression.

You can use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the free pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details and written instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 33” x 33” (with the border). You can adjust the size by making more or less squares.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approx. 790 yds for your main color and 515 yds for your contrasting color.

Breakdown of amount of yarn required: 

• Main color: 17 yds for each square, 55 yds for joining and 115 yds for the border.
• Contrasting color: 14 yds for each square.

I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads. This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. In total, I used 3 skeins of “Black” (my main color) and 2 skeins of “White” (my contrasting color).

Note: some images/diagrams in this pattern show different colors for clarity. 

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• MC = main color
• CC = contrasting color
• ch-1 sp = chain one space
• ch-2 sp = chain two space
• RS = right side/front
• WS = wrong side/back

Gauge

For the squares: 4” x 4” = 10 sc (only counting sc sts, not the chs or sps) and 15 rows following the square instructions. Measurements and more info are included in the Square Instructions section.

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Pattern Instructions

1) Make the squares
2) Assemble the squares
3) Join the squares
4) Add the border

Make the Squares

Square Notes

• Make 36 squares. All squares are made the same way. 
• Change colors when instructed on your final single crochet stitch of the row when you have two loops on your hook. Place the new color on your hook and pull it through the two loops of the old color. 
• After changing colors, always carry the unused color up the two starting chain stitches. Here’s how: before making a chain stitch, place the unused color over the strand of the current color, then make the chain stitch. Repeat for the second chain stitch. Some of the unused color will be shown but will be hidden when the square border is added.

Square Instructions

Start: With CC (I used white), ch 22. 

For Row 1 (only) work into the back ridge loops. 

Row 1 (RS): Still with CC, in the second ch from hook, sl st VERY loosely. Sl st VERY loosely in each ch across. (21 sts).

(Work normally into both top loops from now on).

Row 2 (WS): Still with CC, ch 2 and turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), sc. 

(Note: the sp between the starting chs and the sc creates a ch-2 sp that you will work into on the next row). 

*Ch 1. Sk the next st. In the next st, sc.*

(Note: every time you ch 1 and sk a st, this creates a ch-1 sp that you will work into on the next row). 

Repeat from * to * across. 

Your final st is a sc in the last sl st of the row. 

On the last st, change to MC (I used black).

(11 sc sts, 1 ch-2 sp and 10 ch-1 sps created).

Use MC for the first time completing Row 3 (all rows that repeat Row 3 say which color to use). Reminder: after changing colors, always carry the unused color up the 2 starting ch sts.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 2 and turn.

In the first ch-1 sp from the previous row, sc (this creates a new ch-2 sp). 

*Ch 1. In the next ch-1 sp from the previous row, sc (new ch-1 sp created).* 

Repeat from * to * until the ch-2 sp at the end. 

Ch 1. In the ch-2 sp (the sp between the 2 starting chs and the last sc from the previous row), sc. 

(11 sc sts, 1 ch-2 sp and 10 ch-1 spaces created).

Row 4 (WS): Still with MC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to CC. 

Row 5 (RS): With CC, repeat Row 3. 

Row 6 (WS): Still with CC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to MC. 

Row 7 (RS): With MC, repeat Row 3.

Row 8 (WS): Still with MC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to CC.

Row 9 (RS): With CC, repeat Row 3.

Row 10 (WS): Still with CC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to MC.

Row 11 (RS): With MC, repeat Row 3.

Row 12 (WS): Still with MC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to CC.

Row 13 (RS): With CC, repeat Row 3.

Row 14 (WS): Still with CC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to MC.

Row 15 (RS): With MC, repeat Row 3.

Row 16 (WS): Still with MC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to CC.

Row 17 (RS): With CC, repeat Row 3.

Row 18 (WS): Still with CC, repeat Row 3. On the last st, change to MC. Fasten off CC only (not MC). 

Measurements: 

• After Row 6 = 5” w x 1.75” h
• After Row 10 = 5” w x 2.75” h
• After Row 14 = 5” w x 3.75” h
• After Row 18 = 5” w x 4.75” h
• After the Border = 5.25” x 5.25” (7” diagonally) – due to st placement, the height increases more than the width.

Note about measurements: you need your finished square’s width to be the same as its height. It’s okay if your work is not the same size as the measurements above but it does need to be a square. All of your squares need to be the same size.

How to Adjust the Size of the Square: 

To adjust the width, make more or less starting chains in multiples of 2 (an even number). To adjust the height, make more or less rows. Ensure you end after completing a WS row.

If you are adjusting the size of the square, you will also need to adjust the square’s border. When making the square’s border, ensure you have the same number of single crochet stitches on the top, left side and bottom. On the right side of the border, ensure you have one less single crochet stitch than the other three sides. The invisible join that completes the square counts as a stitch, so having one less stitch on the last/right side will ensure you have an equal number of stitches on each side.

Square Border Instructions

Turn. Do not make any chains. The RS will now be facing you. 

Top: In the first ch-1 sp, make (sc, ch 2, sc) (first corner made). *In the next ch-1 sp, sc. In the next ch-1 sp, make 2 sc.* Repeat from * to * across until there are 2 sps left (there will be 1 ch-1 sp and 1 ch-2 sp left). In the next sp (the last ch-1 sp), sc. In the last sp (the ch-2 sp), make (sc, ch 2, sc) (second corner made). (13 sc sts made in between the two corners). 

Side – Down: Sk the first row. Sc in the end of the next 4 rows. Note: at the end of each row, you can work into one loop or two loops or into the sp around the st. On my first and last sc sts (only), I made my sts behind the CC st so all of the CC’s st would be visible on the RS.  *Sk the end of the next row. Sc in the end of the next 3 rows.* Repeat from * to * until the last row. Sk the last row. (13 sc sts made).

Bottom: In the first ch along the bottom, make (sc, ch 2, sc) (third corner made). In the next ch, sc. *Sk the next ch. Sc in the next 2 chs.* Repeat from * to * across the bottom until there is 1 ch left. In the last ch, make (sc, ch 2, sc) (fourth corner made). (13 sc sts made in between the two corners).

Side – Up: Sk the end of the first row. Sc in the end of the next 4 rows (note: on my first sc st (only), I made my st behind the CC st so all of the CC’s st would be visible on the RS). *Sk the end of the next row. Sc in the end of the next 3 rows.* Repeat from * to * until there are 5 rows left. Sk the end of the next row. Sc in the end of the next 2 rows. Sk the last 2 rows. (12 sc sts made). 

Use the Invisible Join Technique to join. This technique resembles a stitch so you will have the same number of stitches on each side of the square. 

Invisible Join Technique: 

1. After finishing the last stitch in the round, cut the yarn that’s attached to the skein, leaving an 8” long tail. 
2. Pull the tail through your last stitch (don’t worry, your work won’t come undone). 
3. Put the tail in the eye of your yarn needle.
4. Insert your yarn needle into both loops of the top of the first stitch made in the round and pull your tail through.
5. Next, you’ll be working into the last stitch made in the round. Insert your yarn needle from top to bottom through the back loop of the last stitch. Insert your needle into the horizontal line on the back of that stitch (the small line that is parallel to the back loop). Pull the tail through both the back loop and the horizontal line on the back of the stitch. Be careful not to pull too tightly. 
6. The tail has now created two lines that connect the first and last stitches and it resembles a stitch. 
7. Still with your yarn needle, weave the tail into stitches on the back of your work, being careful not to pull too tightly. Once the tail is secure and hidden, cut any remaining yarn.

Weave in all other loose ends. 

Assemble the Squares

Lay your squares out with the right side/front of each square facing up. Position the squares so they alternate between a square with vertical lines and a square with horizontal lines.

For squares with vertical lines, ensure the top of the square (the last row) is pointing left and the bottom of the square (the chain row) is pointing right.

For squares with horizontal lines, ensure the top of the square (the last row) is pointing up and the bottom of the square (the chain row) is pointing down. 

Place a stitch marker in the bottom left square’s ch-2 sp (the ch-2 sp on the bottom left corner) – this helps you remember the starting square (square A). 

Join the Squares

Helpful Video Tutorial: While there isn’t a video tutorial for this blanket, you can refer to my video tutorial for my Flower Granny Square Blanket from 33:04 – 1:02:23. That video tutorial has similar instructions for joining that you may find helpful. 

Joining Notes

• The squares are joined using the flat slip stitch joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
• Use an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook and MC (I used black).
• Don’t make your stitches too tight (this is very important!). If necessary, go up a hook size.
• You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once. 
• Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side/front of each square facing up.
• Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
• When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.

• Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left). 
• You will always be working into the outer loops only.  The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square. 

• Treat the invisible join as a stitch and work into the outer loop as you would any other stitch. 

How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch

Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook. 

Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook. 

Step 3: Note:ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook. 

Your flat slip stitch has now been made.

Joining the next two squares:

After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.

Joining Overview

First, the squares are joined vertically by joining the squares in Column 1, then Column 2, 3, 4 and 5 (and any more columns if applicable). 

Second, the squares are joined horizontally by joining the squares in Row 1, then Row 2, 3, 4 and 5 (and any more rows if applicable). 

(You will start each column and row with new yarn by making a slip knot and placing it on your hook. At the end of each column and row, you will fasten off).

Joining – Columns

Instructions for each column:

• Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of two chain stitches (leave the first of two chain stitches unworked).
• Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
• Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked). 

Column 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares B and A.

Join Squares H and G.

Join Squares N and M.

Join Squares T and S.

Join Squares Z and Y. 

Join Squares FF and EE. Fasten off. 

Column 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares C and B.

Join Squares I and J.

Join Squares O and N.

Join Squares U and T.

Join Squares AA and Z. 

Join Squares GG and FF. Fasten off. 

Column 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares D and C.

Join Squares J and I.

Join Squares P and O.

Join Squares V and U.

Join Squares BB and AA. 

Join Squares HH and GG. Fasten off. 

Column 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares E and D.

Join Squares K and J.

Join Squares Q and P.

Join Squares W and V.

Join Squares CC and BB.

Join Squares II and HH. Fasten off. 

Column 5: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares F and E.

Join Squares L and K.

Join Squares R and Q.

Join Squares X and W.

Join Squares DD and CC.

Join Squares JJ and II. Fasten off. 

Joining – Rows

Instructions for each row: 

• When joining the first two squares of a row, work in the second of the first two chain stitches. For all other squares in the row, you will work over the columns (meaning your row’s stitches will be overtop the columns) and work into both of the first two chain stitches (the first chain will have already been worked in but work into it again). 
• After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches. 
• Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked).

Row 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares A and G (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts). 

Join Squares B and H (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts). 

Join Squares C and I.

Join Squares D and J.

Join Squares E and K.

Join Squares F and L. Fasten off.

Row 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares G and M (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares H and N (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares I and O.

Join Squares J and P. 

Join Squares K and Q.

Join Squares L and R. Fasten off.

Row 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares M and S (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares N and T (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares O and U.

Join Squares P and V. 

Join Squares Q and W.

Join Squares R and X.  Fasten off.

Row 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares S and Y (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares T and Z (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares U and AA.

Join Squares V and BB. 

Join Squares W and CC. 

Join Squares X and DD. Fasten off.

Row 5: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares Y and EE (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares Z and FF (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).

Join Squares AA and GG.

Join Squares BB and HH. 

Join Squares CC and II. 

Join Squares DD and JJ. Fasten off.

Add the Border

Blanket Border Notes

• Do not weave in your loose ends from joining. The tails can be used to fix any gaps between the join lines and border.
• Use an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook and MC (I used black).

Blanket Border Instructions

Border Round 1: Attach yarn in the starting square’s corner ch-2 sp with a sl st (the sp with a stitch marker – you can now remove the marker). Ensure the right side/front of the blanket is facing you. In the same ch-2 sp, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sc in the top of each sc st around. 

• When working into the invisible join, work into the front loop only (the loop closest to you).
• When approaching where two squares were joined, make 1 sc in the first square’s ch-2 sp. Sk the join line. Make 1 sc in the second square’s ch-2 sp. 
• In the blanket’s three remaining corner ch-2 sps, make 3 sc in each ch-2 sp. 

After working all the way around, sl st into the top of the first sc made in the round to join.

Border Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch – this st does not get worked into at the start or end of the round). Sc in each st around, except at the corners. At each corner, make 3 sc in the corner st (the corner st is the middle sc st of the 3 sc made in each corner in the previous round). After working all the way around, sl st into the top of the first sc made in the round to join.

Border Round 3: Repeat Round 2. 

Border Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. (The right side/front of the blanket should be facing you). In the first st (the st attached to the ch), sl st. *Ch 2. Sl st in the next 2 sts.* Repeat from * to * around. (Nothing special happens at the corners). Sl st into the first sl st made in the round to join. (At the end of the round, if you don’t have the right number of sts, back up and only make 1 sl st after the ch-2). 

Fasten off and weave in loose ends. Use the tails to fix any gaps. 

Now you have a new striped squares blanket!

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