Heart Granny Square Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Heart Blanket Pattern

This beautiful crochet heart blanket pattern combines the timeless appeal of granny squares with the sweetness of hearts and creates a charming and snuggly creation that’s perfect for keeping your little bundle of joy warm and cozy.

The pattern includes easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions, making it a breeze to create your own Heart Granny Square Baby Blanket.

Why I think you’ll love this blanket:

• The heart squares are really fun to make. It’s a great portable project because you make the squares individually. It’s very easy to adjust the size as you just make more or less squares.
• You can customize the colors and get creative with your color combinations. I chose to make each heart the same color but you could make the hearts all different colors, which I think would look wonderful.
• I wrote this pattern to ensure clarity without any guesswork required. My testers raved about the detailed instructions.

Whether you’re creating it for your own little one or as a heartfelt gift for a new arrival, this blanket is sure to become a beloved keepsake for years to come.

Use can use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this free crochet pattern or keep scrolling down for all the details and written instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 28” x 28” (with the border). Each square is approx. 5” x 5” and 6.5” diagonally. Exact sizing is not important.

You can easily adjust the size by making more or less squares. Instructions for adjusting the size of the blanket are included at the end of the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 3 (light) yarn in 2 colors: 

• Approx. 310 yds of the contrasting color, which is used for the heart on multicolor squares, joining the squares and the blanket border.
• Approx. 620 yds of the main color, which is used for the solid color squares and the background of the multicolor squares.

I used Snuggly Wuggly by Loops & Threads. This yarn is size 3 (light) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 446 yds / 408 m and 5 oz / 141 g. For my contrasting color, I used “Fairy Tale” (pink) (1 skein in total). For my main color, I used “White” (2 skeins in total).

Please refer to the end of the pattern for information about using size 4 (medium) yarn.

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, a stitch marker and a measuring tape.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• MC = main color
• CC = contrasting color
• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = triple/treble crochet
• hdc2tog = half double crochet two together
• dc2tog = double crochet two together 
• tr2tog = triple crochet two together 
• ch-2 sp = chain 2 space 
• BLO = back loops only

Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Pattern Instructions

1) Make the squares
2) Assemble the squares
3) Join the squares
4) Add the border

Make the Squares

Square Notes

• Chains never count at stitches.
• The squares are made in the round. Never turn at the start or end of any round. 
• The first stitch of every round is the stitch attached to the chain.
• Your work may curl during the first few rounds but will lay flat after the final round and after blocking.

Square Stitch Explanations

In Round 4, you will be making two stitches together. The instructions indicate whether to make them over two stitches or in the same stitch. 

• “Over the next two stitches” (also known as a decrease) means to work the next two stitches together.
• “In the same stitch” (also known as a cluster) means to work in the same stitch for the entire stitch. 

In case any of these stitches are new to you, here is how to make them:

Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog)

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO. Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 5 loops on your hook. This completed hdc2tog counts as one stitch.

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed dc2tog counts as one stitch.

Triple/Treble Crochet Two Together (tr2tog)

Yarn over (YO) twice. Insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO twice and insert your hook into the designated st. YO and pull through a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed tr2tog counts as one stitch. 

Square Instructions

Make 13 multicolor squares and 12 solid color squares (25 squares in total).

START:

• For multicolor squares: Start with CC (I used pink). Continue using CC until instructed to change. 
• For solid color squares: Use MC (I used white) throughout.

To start, make a Magic Circle.

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ROUND 1: 

Ch 1. Make the following stitches into the Magic Circle (in the order listed below):

Hdc.

3 tr.

Sl st.

3 tr.

2 hdc.

Tr.

Hdc. 

(12 sts. Reminder: chains never count as sts). 

Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

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ROUND 2: 

Ch 1. Reminder: never turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), hdc. 

In the next st, 2 hdc. 

In the next st, 3 tr. 

In the next st, (dc, sc) in the same st. 

In the next st (the sl st from the previous round), sl st.

In the next st, (sc, dc) in the same st.

In the next st, 3 tr. 

In the next st, 2 hdc. 

In the next st, hdc. 

In the next st, 2 hdc. 

In the next st, (dc, tr, dc) in the same st.

In the last st, 3 hdc. 

(25 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

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ROUND 3:

Ch 1. 

In the first st, sc.

Sc in the next 3 sts. 

In the next st, 2 sc.

In the next st, 3 sc.

In the next st, 2 sc.

In the next st, sc.

In the next st (the sl st from the previous round), sl st.

In the next st, sc. 

In the next st, 2 sc.

In the next st, 3 sc.

In the next st, 2 sc.

Sc in the next 8 sts.

In the next st, 3 sc.

Sc in the next 3 sts.

(35 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

At the end of Round 3, my heart measured approx. 3.25” wide (measured at the widest part) and 2.75” high (measured from the tip of the bottom straight up to the middle of the top). Exact sizing is not important. 

If you are making a multicolor square, fasten off CC (meaning to cut the yarn that’s attached to the skein, leaving an 8” tail). Attach MC (I used white): place MC on your hook and pull it through the loop of CC that is currently on your hook. Continue using MC for the rest of the square.

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ROUND 4:

For all of Round 4 (only), you will be working into the back loops only (BLO), which are the loops furthest away from you. 

Reminder: The “Square Stitch Explanations” section above includes more information about this round.

Ch 2 

In the BLO, over the first and second sts, dc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, hdc2tog in the same st.

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, dc2tog in the same st. 

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, dc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, dc2tog. 

Sk the next 2 sts. (Don’t make any chains). 

In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, dc2tog. 

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, dc2tog. 

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, dc2tog in the same st. 

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, hdc2tog in the same st.

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, dc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, tr2tog in the same st. 

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, tr2tog in the same st. 

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, dc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, hdc2tog in the same st. 

Ch 2. In the BLO, over the next 2 sts, dc2tog.

Ch 2. In the BLO of the next st, tr2tog in the same st. 

Ch 2. In the BLO of the last st, tr2tog in the same st. Ch 2. 

(21 sts. 20 ch-2 spaces made).

Sl st into both loops of the top of the first dc2tog to join.

Work in both loops from now on. 

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ROUND 5:

Sl st into the first ch-2 sp. Ch 2. In the same (the first) ch-2 sp, 2 dc. 

In the next 2 ch-2 spaces, 3 dc.

In the next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp. (First corner made).

In the next 4 ch-2 spaces, 3 dc. 

In the next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp. (Second corner made).

In the next 4 ch-2 spaces, 3 dc.

In the next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp. (Third corner made).

In the next 4 ch-2 spaces, 3 dc. 

In the next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp. (Fourth corner made).

In the last ch-2 sp, 3 dc. 

(71 dc sts).  

Proceed to the finishing directions to join.

Square Finishing

Use the invisible join technique to finish your square. Since this technique resembles a stitch, you will have the same number of stitches on each side of the square, which is helpful when joining granny squares together. 

INVISIBLE JOIN TECHNIQUE: 

1. After finishing the last stitch in the round, cut the yarn that’s attached to the skein, leaving an 8” long tail. 
2. Pull the tail through your last stitch (don’t worry, your work won’t come undone). 
3. Put the tail in the eye of your yarn needle.
4. Insert your yarn needle into both loops of the top of the first stitch made in the round and pull your tail through. 
5. Next, you’ll be working into the last stitch made in the round. Insert your yarn needle from top to bottom through the back loop of the last stitch. Insert your needle into the horizontal line on the back of that stitch (the small line that is parallel to the back loop). Pull the tail through both the back loop and the horizontal line on the back of the stitch. Be careful not to pull too tightly. 
6. The tail has now created two lines that connect the first and last stitches and it resembles a stitch. 
7. Still with your yarn needle, weave the tail into stitches on the back of your work, being careful not to pull too tight. Once the tail is secure and hidden, cut any remaining yarn. 

Need help? You can watch my video tutorial for my Flower Granny Square Blanket starting at 29:53, which shows how to do this invisible join.

After finishing, weave in all other loose ends.

Blocking

Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. I blocked my squares by pinning them on a blocking board with rust-proof pins, spraying them with water and leaving them to dry.

Should you block your squares before joining? 

For this pattern, I recommend blocking your squares before joining as well as blocking the finished blanket. 

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Assemble the Squares

Lay your squares out with the right side/front of each square facing up as shown in the image below. 

Place a stitch marker in the bottom left square’s ch-2 sp (the ch-2 sp on the bottom left corner) – this helps you remember the starting square (square A). 

Join the Squares

Joining Notes

• The squares are joined using the flat slip stitch joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
• If you need any help, you can refer to my video tutorial for my Flower Granny Square Blanket from 34:04 – 1:02:22, which shows how to join granny squares using the flat slip stitch joining technique.
• Use an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook and CC (I used pink).
• You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once. 
• Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side/front of each square facing up.
• Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
• When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.

Note: Some images in this section of the pattern show different squares but the instructions are the same.

• Don’t make your stitches too tight (this is very important!). If necessary, go up a hook size. 
• Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left). 
• Treat the invisible join as a stitch and work into the outer loop as you would any other stitch. 
• You will always be working into the outer loops only.  The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square. 

How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch

Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook. 

Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook. 

Step 3: Note: Ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook. 

Your flat slip stitch has now been made.

Joining the next two squares:

After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.

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Joining Overview

First, the squares are joined vertically by joining the squares in Column 1, then Column 2, Column 3 and Column 4 (and any more columns if applicable). 

Second, the squares are joined horizontally by joining the squares in Row 1, then Row 2, Row 3, and Row 4 (and any more rows if applicable). 

(You will start each column and row with new yarn by making a slip knot and placing it on your hook. At the end of each column and row, you will fasten off).

Joining Columns

Instructions for each column:

• Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of two chain stitches (leave the first of two chain stitches unworked).
• Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
• Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked). 

Column 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares B and A.
• Join Squares G and F.
• Join Squares L and K.
• Join Squares Q and P.
• Join Squares V and U. 

Fasten off. 

Column 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares C and B.
• Join Squares H and G.
• Join Squares M and L.
• Join Squares R and Q.
• Join Squares W and V. 

Fasten off. 

Column 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares D and C.
• Join Squares I and H.
• Join Squares N and M.
• Join Squares S and R.
• Join Squares X and W. 

Fasten off. 

Column 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares E and D.
• Join Squares J and I.
• Join Squares O and N.
• Join Squares T and S.
• Join Squares Y and X.

Fasten off. 

Joining Rows

Instructions for each row: 

• When joining the first two squares of a row, work in the second of the first two chain stitches. For all other squares in the row, you will work over the columns (meaning your row’s stitches will be overtop the columns) and work into both of the first two chain stitches (the first chain will have already been worked in but work into it again). 
• After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches. 
• Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked).

Row 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares A and F (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts). 
• Join Squares B and G (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts). 
• Join Squares C and H.
• Join Squares D and I.
• Join Squares E and J.

Fasten off.

Row 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares F and K (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares G and L (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares H and M.
• Join Squares I and N. 
• Join Squares J and O.

Fasten off.

Row 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares K and P (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares L and Q (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares M and R.
• Join Squares N and S. 
• Join Squares O and T. 

Fasten off.

Row 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares P and U (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares Q and V (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares R and W.
• Join Squares S and X. 
• Join Squares T and Y. 

Fasten off.

Add the Border

Border Notes

• Do not weave in your loose ends from joining. The tails can be used to fix any gaps between the join lines and border.
• Use an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook and CC (I used pink).
• The border is designed to ruffle slightly. 

Border Instructions

Border Round 1: Attach yarn in the starting square’s corner ch-2 sp with a sl st (the sp with a stitch marker – you can now remove the marker). Ensure the right side/front of the blanket is facing you. In the same ch-2 sp, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sc in the top of each dc st around. 

• When working into the invisible join, work into the front loop only (the loop closest to you).
• When approaching where two squares were joined, don’t work into the ch-2 sps:
  • For the first square: make 1 sc in the front loop only of the first ch (the unworked first ch from the ch-2 sp). Sk the second ch.
  • Sk the join line.
  • For the second square: make 1 sc in the back loop only of the first ch (the ch that’s already been worked in). Make 1 sc in the front loop only of the second ch (the unworked second ch).
• In the blanket’s three remaining corner ch-2 sps, make 3 sc in each ch-2 sp (don’t work into the 2 ch sts at the corners).

When back at the first st made in the round, sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Border Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch – this st does not get worked into at the start or end of the round). Sc in each st around, except at the corners. At each corner, make 3 sc in the corner st (the corner st is the middle sc st of the 3 sc made in each corner in the previous round). After working all the way around, sl st into the top of the first sc made to join.

Border Round 3: Repeat Round 2. 

Border Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. (The right side/front of the blanket should be facing you). In the first st (the st attached to the ch), sl st. *Sk the next st. Make 5 dc in the next st (shell created). Sk the next st. In the next st, sl st.* Repeat from * to * around. (Nothing special happens at the corners).

As you approach the first shell made in the round, you’ll want to have a sl st between it and your last shell. If you don’t have the right number of sts, back up and don’t skip a stitch after a shell to make it work. 

After your last sl st, fasten off and weave in loose ends. Use the tails to fix any gaps. 

Now you have a new heart granny square blanket! 

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How to Adjust the Size

You can adjust the size of the blanket by making more or less squares. 

To help you determine how much yarn will be required if you make a different number of squares, I’ve included additional yarn details below.

YARN DETAILS USING SIZE 3 (LIGHT) YARN

For each multicolor square, you will need approx.: 

CC (I used pink): 10 yds 

MC (I used white): 20 yds 

For each solid color square, you will need approx.:

MC: 30 yds.

As a reference point, I used approx. 180 yds for joining 25 squares and the border (going around 25 squares). 

Using Size 4 (Medium) Yarn

This blanket was designed, made and tested with size 3 (light) yarn. You are welcome to try using size 4 (medium) yarn but the overall look, feel and size as well as the amount of yarn required may be different. 

I have designed, made and tested the square pattern with size 4 (medium) yarn but not the entire blanket. I’ve included the details for making the square with size 4 (medium) yarn below.

Crochet Hook Size: I/9 (5.50 mm). 

Sizing: A completed square made with size 4 (medium) yarn is approx. 6” x 6” and 8” diagonally.

YARN DETAILS USING SIZE 4 (MEDIUM) YARN

For each multicolor square, you will need approx.: 

CC: 12 yds 

MC: 22 yds 

For each solid color square, you will need approx.:

MC: 34 yds.

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I hope you enjoyed making this heart granny square blanket!

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