Textured V-Stitch Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

V-Stitch Crochet Blanket

Crochet blankets that are made with a V-stitch are really fun to make and look beautiful when complete.

A V-stitch in crochet can vary significantly between patterns. Each pattern should specify how to complete the V-stitch for that project.

The V-stitch used in this crochet blanket is unlike most other blankets made with a V-stitch. I’ve called the special stitch used in this pattern a “Textured V-Stitch,” as the combination of stitches makes it 3-dimensional.

The Textured V-Stitch in this pattern is made by completing three steps. First, you will make a double crochet stitch. Second, you will make a half double crochet stitch followed by a chain stitch and then another half double crochet stitch in the same space. Lastly, you will make a second double crochet stitch.

Only basic crochet stitches are used to make this stitch. The tricky part is where to make those stitches. The written instructions specify where to make each stitch but you may find it much easier to see everything in action by watching the video tutorial. As soon as you know where you make the stitches, the one-stitch repeat becomes easy.

Repeating this Textured V-Stitch creates a thick, squishy fabric that is warm, cozy and snuggly. It’s interesting because, at the same time as being quite thick, the fabric is also very lightweight and breathable and has excellent drape.

It’s a delightful fabric for a baby blanket or a throw blanket. On that note, I’ve made this pattern as a baby blanket but you can easily adjust the size to make it as a larger blanket.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a baby blanket that is approx. 33” x 33” with the border (approx. 30” x 30” without). Instructions for adjusting the size are included in the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Approx. 1,500 yds of any size 3 (light) yarn. I used Baby Cuddles by Loops & Threads in the color “Silver Grey.” This yarn is size 3 (light), 70% acrylic and 30% polyamide. A skein is 315 yds / 288 m and 4 oz / 113 g.  I used five skeins.

(The yarn seen in the diagrams and video is Patons Astra in Hot Lilac).

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sk = skip
• YO = yarn over 
• sp = space
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet 
• ch-1 sp = chain one space
• FPdc = front post double crochet 
• BPdc = back post double crochet
• Textured V-St = Textured V-Stitch

Gauge

4” x 4” = 16 sts (only count hdc and dc sts, not chains) and 12 rows following the pattern. To make a swatch, ch 20 and follow the pattern. 

Pattern Notes

• Chains never count as stitches. 
• This blanket is made from the chain row up. The number of starting chains determines the width and the number of rows determines the height. To adjust the width, make fewer or more starting chains in multiples of 3 + 5. To adjust the height, make fewer or more rows. 

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Written Instructions

Blanket Body

Start: Chain 92. 

For Row 1 (only) work into the back ridge loops. 

Row 1: In the second ch from hook, sc. Sc in each ch across. (91 sts). 

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn. 

Sk the first st (the st attached to the chains). 

In the next st, (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the same st. 

*Sk the next 2 sts. 

In the next st, (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the same st.*

Repeat from * to * across until there are 2 sts left. 

Sk the next st. 

In the last st, hdc. 

Stitch count (reminder: chains never count as sts): 

(2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) x 30 = 120 hdc + 1 hdc = 121 sts.

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Textured V-Stitch

For the rest of the pattern, you will be making a special stitch that I’ve called a Textured V-St. 

You will repeat this stitch across each row until the last st (you’ll make a hdc st in the last st of each row).

The Textured V-St is made by completing three steps:

1. Making a first dc 
2. Making (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in the same space
3. Making a second dc

The written instructions explain where to make these stitches but you may find it more helpful to watch the video tutorial to see the exact stitch placement. 

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Row 3: (Watch how at 5:24 in the video tutorial).

Ch 2 and turn. You will not be working into tops of stitches across Row 3 until the very last st.

Working under and into the first (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) from the row below, make a Textured V-St.

Here’s how to make a Textured V-St in Row 3: 

STEP 1 (THE FIRST DC): 

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook from front to back under the (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) and into the sc st from two rows below. Bring your hook out (from back to front) in the ch-1 sp from the previous row. Finish the dc st as you normally would: YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. 

STEP 2 (HDC, CH 1, HDC): 

In the ch-1 sp from the row below, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in the same sp. 

STEP 3 (THE SECOND DC): 

YO. Insert your hook from front to back in the ch-1 sp from the row below. Bring your hook out (from back to front) in the sc st two rows below (where you inserted your hook in Step 1). Finish the dc st as you normally would: YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook.

*Working under and into the next (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc), make a Textured V-St.* Repeat from * to * across. 

In the top of the last st in the row, hdc. 

Stitch count: Textured V-St x 30 = 120 sts (60 dc sts and 60 hdc sts) + 1 hdc = 121 sts. 

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Row 4: (Watch how at 15:46 in the video tutorial).

Ch 2 and turn. You will not be working into the tops of sts until the very last st in the row. 

The only difference between Row 3 and 4 is instead of working under and into each (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc), you will now be working under and into each Textured V-St from the row below. 

Working under and into the first Textured V-St from the row below, make a Textured V-St. 

Here’s how to make a Textured V-St in Row 4: 

STEP 1 (THE FIRST DC): 

YO. Insert your hook from front to back into the ch-1 sp from two rows below (under the (hdc, ch 1, hdc) from the previous row). Bring your hook out (from back to front) in the ch-1 sp from the row below. Finish the dc st as you normally would: YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. 

STEP 2 (HDC, CH 1, HDC): 

In the ch-1 sp from the row below, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in the same sp. 

STEP 3 (THE SECOND DC): 

YO. Insert your hook from front to back in the ch-1 sp from the row below. Bring your hook out (from back to front) in the ch-1 sp from two rows below (where you inserted your hook in Step 1). Finish the dc st as you normally would: YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. 

*Working under and into the next Textured V-St from the row below, make a Textured V-St.* Repeat from * to * across. 

In the top of the last st in the row, hdc. 

Stitch count: Textured V-St x 30 = 120 sts (60 dc sts and 60 hdc sts) + 1 hdc = 121 sts.

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Row 5 and on: Repeat Row 4 until the height of your work matches the width (if you want a square blanket). For me, this was 30” x 30” and 88 rows in total. Or, you can continue repeating Row 4 until you reach your desired height. You can end after any row. After reaching your desired height, do not fasten off. Begin the border.

Blanket Border

Border Round 1: Ch 1. Do not turn. 

SIDE (DOWN): Working down the side, sc evenly down, working into the sts at the end of each row – not into the spaces. 

Need help with where to work into? I used the “Vs” as a guide and made 1 sc at the top of a“V,” 1 sc in the middle and 1 sc at the bottom. The exact stitch count or placement doesn’t matter. The goal is to create an even number of sc sts down (and up the sides). You can insert your hook under 1 or 2 loops of the sts. 

In the last st down the side, make 3 sc in the same st (first corner made). 

BOTTOM: Sc in each ch across the bottom.

SIDE (UP): In the first st up the side, make 3 sc in the same st (second corner made). Working up the side, sc evenly up (same as the other side).

TOP: In the first st (the top of first dc), make 3 sc in the same st (third corner made). 

Sk the next st (the hdc from below). 

In the ch-1 sp, sc. 

Sk the next st (the hdc from below). 

In the next st (the top of the dc from below), sc. 

*In the next st (the top of the dc from below), sc. 

Sk the next st (the hdc from below). 

In the ch-1 sp, sc. 

Sk the next st (the hdc from below). 

In the next st (the top of the dc from below), sc.*

Repeat from * to * across the top until there is 1 st left. 

In the last st, make 3 sc in the same st (fourth corner made).

Sl st into the first sc made in the round to join.

Border Round 2: Ch 2. Do not turn. In the first st (the st attached to the chains), dc. Dc in each st around except at the corners. At each corner (the middle st of the 3 sc sts made in each corner in the previous round), make 9 dc in the same st.  (It’s okay for the corners to “balloon” out – that will be fixed as the border grows). 

After working all the way around, before joining the round, count your sts (the ch-2 that started the round does not count as a stitch). You need to have an odd number of sts in total at the end of Round 2. 

If you have an odd number of sts, proceed to join. 

If you have an even number of sts, make another dc in the last st, then proceed to join. 

Join: sl st into the top of the first dc made in the round.

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Front and Back Post Stitches

For Rounds 3 – 5 of the border, you will be making front and back post stitches. If these stitches are new to you, here’s how to make them:

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc):

Yarn over, insert your hook from the front to the back at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Finish the dc st as you normally would: YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): 

Yarn over, insert your hook from the back to the front at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Finish the dc st as you normally would: YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook.

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Border Round 3: Ch 2. Do not turn. FPdc around the first st from the round below (not the ch-2 from below. The ch-2 from below is never worked around). *BPdc around the next st from the round below. FPdc around the next st from the round below.* Repeat from * to * around. Nothing special happens at the corners. Your last st is a FPdc around the last dc from the round below. Sl st into the top of the first FPdc to join. 

Border Round 4: Ch 2. Do not turn. FPdc around the first st below (the FPdc from the round below). The ch-2 from below is not worked around. *BPdc around the next st below (the next BPdc from the round below). FPdc around the next st below (the next FPdc from the round below).* Repeat from * to * around. Nothing special happens at the corners. Your last st is a FPdc around the last FPdc from the round below. Sl st into the top of the first FPdc to join.

Border Round 5: Repeat Round 4. 

After finishing Border Round 5, fasten off and weave in loose ends. 

And now you have a new textured blanket!

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