Flower Granny Square Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

About this Flower Crochet Granny Square Bag

If you’re looking to add a classic yet modern and absolutely gorgeous bag (with a touch of vintage charm) to your accessories collection, you’ll love this delightful Flower Granny Square Bag! This versatile piece can be used as a tote bag or an everyday purse, making it perfect for any occasion. 

Creating your own crochet granny square bag is a fun and rewarding project.

This pattern has been meticulously designed to ensure absolute clarity, with easy-to-follow instructions, detailed diagrams and a comprehensive video tutorial demonstrating every step.

In this granny square bag pattern, you will learn step-by-step:

• How to make the flower granny squares.
• How to assemble the squares to make a granny square bag.
• How to join the squares using the flat slip stitch technique (which is an easy and quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares together.
• How to add a customizable strap and a lovely border to the bag.

While there are some special stitches involved and it has a skill level of “Easy to Intermediate,” I believe that any confident beginner will be able to breeze through it without any confusion, especially with all the diagrams and accompanying extensive video. 

The best part? You can make this beautiful bag in just one weekend! (Depending, of course, on how quickly you crochet and how much time you spend on it, but I’ve made several of these bags and each took me only a couple of days). 

When you’re finished, you will have a brand-new fashionable, practical bag that WOWs! You will be so proud when you get asked “Where did you get that!?” 

(And my goal when designing this pattern is that you’ll be wowed by the clarity of the instructions). 

Another great feature of this pattern is the bag strap. If you’ve made a crochet bag before, you’ll know that it’s difficult to stop the strap from stretching and curling. Well not anymore! The strap in this bag pattern was carefully designed so it doesn’t stretch too much and actually lays flat (you can say goodbye to unwanted curls).

And the bag looks fabulous on both sides!

This granny square bag is ideal for a day at the beach or a stroll through the market, providing ample space for all your essentials. Its beautiful floral motif adds a whimsical touch, making it a standout crochet bag wherever you go.

You can use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern. 

---

Affiliate Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links meaning I may receive a commission for purchases made through links in this post at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

---

Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

---

---

Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy to Intermediate

Size

The finished bag is approx. 16” wide and 16” high. Each square is approx. 5.75” x 5.75” (7” diagonally).

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn in 4 colors.

• Color A (Yellow): Approx. 39 yds. I used Impeccable by Loops & Threads in “Lemon.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. (I used less than 1/4 of a skein). 
• Color B (White): Approx. 91 yds. I used Impeccable in “White.” (I used less than 1/2 of a skein). 
• Color C (Green): Approx. 130 yds. I used Impeccable in “Fern.” (I used less than 3/4 of a skein).
• Color D (Mauve): Approx. 370 yds (195 yds for the squares and 175 yds for joining and the border/strap). I used Soft Classic Solid by Loops & Threads in “Mauve.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g. (I used 1 and 1/4 skeins).

Crochet Hook Size: I/9 (5.50 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, a measuring tape and stitch markers. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = triple/treble crochet
• dc2tog = double crochet two together 
• dc3tog = double crochet three together 
• ch-1 sp = chain 1 space 
• ch-2 sp = chain 2 space 

---

This pattern is included in the Bag Bundle! For a limited time, get eight beautiful crochet bag patterns as printable PDFs for one low price. It’s like getting five PDF patterns for free!

Get the Bag Bundle today!

Video Tutorial

Watch the comprehensive step-by-step video tutorial here or keep scrolling down for the written instructions. (The video includes timestamps/chapters so you can easily jump to any section of the pattern).

---

Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

---

Pattern Instructions

1. Make the squares
2. Assemble the squares
3. Join the squares
4. Add the border

Make the Squares

Square Notes

• Chains never count at stitches.
• This pattern is made in the round. Never turn at the start or end of any round. 
• Your work may curl during the first few rounds but will lay flat after Round 4.
• Whenever making dc2tog or dc3tog sts, always make them in the same stitch or space (they are not decreases in this pattern).
• When the pattern has instructions in square brackets followed by a “x 2” or “x 3”, this means to repeat the instructions in the square brackets as indicated. For example, “[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2” means to: Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog. Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog. 
• When the pattern has instructions in round brackets, it means to crochet those instructions in the round brackets in the same stitch or space. For example, “In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog)” means to: make a dc3tog, ch 2 and dc3tog all the in the same space. 
• The pattern references “clusters.” A cluster is a group of three stitches.
• Fasten off means to cut the yarn and pull the end through the loop that was on your hook. 
• When changing colors and the instructions say to attach the new color, it means to insert your hook into the designated stitch or space. Place the new color on your hook and pull it through the stitch or space. 

Square Stitch Explanations

Throughout this square pattern, you will be making two stitches together. In this pattern, these stitches are always made in the same stitch or space (they are not made as decreases). If these stitches are new to you, here’s how to make them:

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated sp. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same stitch or space. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed dc2tog counts as 1 st.

Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog)

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated sp. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same stitch or space. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same stitch or space. YO and pull through a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 4 loops on your hook. This completed dc3tog counts as 1 st.

Square Sizing

• After Round 2 = 3” across
• After Round 3 = 4.5” across
• After Round 4 = 5.75” x 5.75” (7” diagonally)

Exact sizing is not important for this pattern.

Square Instructions

Make 13 squares. All squares are made the same way.

Start: With color A (I used yellow), make a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Still with A, ch 1. Make 12 dc into the Magic Circle. Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. (12 sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts). Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

Round 2: Fasten off A. Attach B (I used white) to the first st (the same st as the sl st).

Ch 2. Reminder: never turn. 

In the first st (the same st as the sl st), dc2tog. 

*Ch 2. In the next st, dc3tog.*  

Repeat from * to * around. 

(12 sts. Stitch breakdown: 1 dc2tog and 11 dc3tog). 

Ch 1. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc2tog to join.

Round 3: Fasten off B. Attach C (I used green) to the first ch-2 sp. 

Ch 2. In the same (the first) ch-2 sp, (dc2tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – first corner made. 

[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – second corner made.

[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – third corner made.

[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – fourth corner made.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog. 

Ch 2. In the next ch-1 sp (the last sp), dc3tog. 

(16 sts. Stitch breakdown: 1 dc2tog and 15 dc3tog). 

Ch 1. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc2tog to join. 

Round 4: Fasten off C. Attach D (I used mauve) to the first ch-2 sp (the first corner). 

Ch 3. In the same (the first corner) ch-2 sp, (2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 3. 

In the second corner ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 3. 

In the third corner ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 3. 

In the fourth corner ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 2. 

In the next ch-1 sp (the last sp), 3 dc. 

(59 sts. Stitch breakdown: 12 dc clusters (12 x 3 = 36), 7 tr clusters (7 x 3 = 21) and 2 tr sts). 

Proceed to the finishing directions to join. 

Finishing

Use the invisible join technique to finish your square so you don’t have a noticeable bump that you see when making a sl st to finish a round. Since this technique resembles a stitch, you will have the same number of stitches on each side of the square, which is helpful when joining granny squares together. 

How to Do the Invisible Join Technique

1. After finishing the last stitch in the round, cut the yarn that’s attached to the skein, leaving an 8” long tail. 
2. Pull the tail through your last stitch (don’t worry, your work won’t come undone). 
3. Put the tail in the eye of your yarn needle.
4. Insert your yarn needle into both loops of the top of the first stitch made in the round and pull your tail through. 
5. Next, you’ll be working into the last stitch made in the round. Insert your yarn needle from top to bottom though the back loop of the last stitch. Insert your needle into the horizontal line on the back of that stitch (the small line that is parallel to the back loop). Pull the tail through both the back loop and the horizontal line on the back of the stitch. Be careful not to pull too tightly. 
6. The tail has now created two lines that are connecting the first and last stitches and resembles a stitch. 
7. Still with your yarn needle, weave the tail into stitches on the back of your work, being careful not to pull too tight. Once the tail is secure and hidden, cut any remaining yarn. 

After finishing, weave in all other loose ends.

Blocking (Optional)

Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. To block your finished square, pin it on blocking boards with rust-proof pins, spray it with water and leave it to dry.

Should you block your squares before joining? 

It’s a personal preference and it can depend on the yarn you use. Some people like to block their squares before joining and others don’t, but block their finished bag (and some don’t block at all). 

I personally did not block my squares before joining. I found the flat slip stitch technique helped straighten out the squares. However, you are welcome to block before joining or after finishing the bag (or not at all). 

Assemble the Squares

Assembly – Front of Bag

Five Front Squares: Place five squares down for the front of the bag as shown in the image below. The wrong side (the back) of each square should be facing up. (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).

Sides and Bottom: Place the two side squares and the bottom square down with the wrong sides (the backs) facing up. (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).

Tie/Hold Together: Using stitch markers or any yarn/string, secure the squares together (this is just temporary until you join them). For each corner of the middle square, secure all the squares attached (place markers or weave your yarn with a yarn needle through each square’s ch-2 sp). 

Fold: Fold the side squares and the bottom square in half.

Assembly – Back of Bag

Five Back Squares: Place the five squares for the back of the bag on top of the squares for the front as shown in the image below. The right side (the front) of each square should be facing up. (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).

Tie/Hold Together: Using stitch markers or any yarn/string, secure the squares together (same as you did for the front).

Optional: secure any other squares/corners.

Assembly – Mark the Front

Mark the Front: Flip the bag over so the front of the bag is facing you. Place a stitch marker in the top left square to identify which side is the front. 

Join the Squares

Joining Notes

• The squares are joined using the flat slip stitch joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
• Use an I/9 (5.50 mm) hook and Color D. You will need approx. 25 yds of yarn for joining. 
• As you approach the corners where your squares are secured, remove the stitch markers or yarn/string and replace them after working on them (until joining holds the squares in place without them).
• Don’t make your stitches too tight. 
• You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once. 
• Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side (the front) of each square facing up.
• Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
• When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.

• Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left). 
• You will always be working into the outer loops only.  The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square. 

• Treat the invisible join as a stitch and work into the outer loop as you would any other stitch. 

How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch

Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook. 

Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook. 

Step 3: Note: Ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook. 

Your flat slip stitch has now been made.

Joining the next two squares:

After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.

Joining – Columns & Bottom

Instructions for each column and bottom: 

• Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of two chain stitches (leave the first of two chain stitches unworked).
• Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
• Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked). 

Column 1:

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook. 

• Join Squares F and H (on the back).
• Join Squares L and I (on the back).
• Don’t fasten off. Continue working on the same column but now along the front. 
• Join Squares L and E (on the front). 
• Join Squares B and C (on the front).

Fasten off.

Column 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares G and K (on the back).
• Join Squares H and J (on the back).
• Join Squares I and M (on the back).
• Don’t fasten off. Continue working on the same column but now along the front.
• Join Squares E and M (on the front).
• Join Squares C and D (on the front).
• Join Squares A and K (on the front).

Fasten off. 

Bottom 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares D and J (on the bottom).

Fasten off.

Bottom 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares E and I (on the bottom).

Fasten off.

Joining – Rows

Instructions for each row: 

• The instructions indicate if, at the start, you should work in both of the first two chain stitches or just the second. When working in both, the first has already been worked in but work into it again.
• “Work over columns” means to ignore the column’s join lines. Your row’s stitches will be overtop of the columns. 
• After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches. 
• Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked).

Row 1:

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares H and G (on the back) – At start: work in the second of 2 ch sts. 
• Join Squares J and K (on the back) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 
• Don’t fasten off. Continue working on the same row but now along the front.
• Join Squares D and K (on the front) – At start: work in the second of 2 ch sts. 
• Join Squares C and A (on the front) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 

Fasten off.

Row 2:

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares L and F (on the back) – At start: work only in the second of 2 ch sts. 
• Join Squares I and H (on the back) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 
• Join Squares M and J (on the back) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts. 
• Do not fasten off. Continue working on the same row but now along the front. 
• Join Squares M and D (on the front) – At start: work in the second of 2 ch sts.
• Join Squares E and C (on the front) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts.
• Join Squares L and B (on the front) – At start: work over column and in both ch sts.

Fasten off.

Do not weave in ends (the ends/tails can be used to fix any gaps). 

Add the Border & Strap

Bag Border & Strap Notes

• This section of the pattern is made in a continuous round. At the start of a round, never turn and never make any chains. You will use a stitch marker to identify the first st of the round. 
• Use an I/9 (5.50 mm) hook and Color D. You will need approx. 150 yds of yarn for the border and strap.  
• You can move the stitch marker that is identifying the front but keep it somewhere on the front of the bag for the remainder of the pattern.
• When working into an invisible join, work into the front loop only (the loop closest to you). 
• You can use the ends/tails to fix any gaps. 
• A “peak” is the top of a square. A “valley” is the “V” between two squares.

Strap Sizing

In Round 2, you will make a number of chains that will create the strap. The pattern says to chain 80, which creates a strap that is approx. 26” long and is approx. 12” away from the peak of the bag (14” away from the valley). 

You can adjust the size of the strap by making any number of chains (there’s no specific multiple required). 

Bag Border & Strap Special Stitches

Special sc3tog = Insert hook in the first ch-2 sp. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook into the middle ch-2 sp. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook in the last ch-2 sp. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all three ch-2 sps (two loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook.

Invisible sc3tog = Insert hook in the FLO (the front loop only, which is the loop closest to you) of the next st. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook into the FLO of the next st. Don’t yarn over. Insert hook in the FLO of the next st. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all three sts (two loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook.

Waistcoat sc st = Insert hook in the middle of the “V” of each sc st (in between the two legs of each post). Then complete the sc st as you normally would: yarn over and pull the yarn through the st (two loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook).

Making waistcoat sc sts for the strap will help stop the strap from stretching and curling. 

Bag Border & Strap Instructions

You will attach your yarn on the front of the bag, in the top right square (near where it’s joined with the side square), in the first top st to the left of the 2 ch sts (see image below).

For this round, do not work into any ch sts (only into ch-2 sps and into the tops of sc sts).  

Round 1: Attach yarn with a sl st. Sc in the same st. Place a stitch marker in the top of that first sc st.

Sc in each st until the first peak. 

At the first peak, in the ch-2 sp, make 3 sc in the same sp.

Sc in each st until the first valley. 

At the valley, make a special sc3tog (see the “Bag Border & Strap Special Stitches” section above) over the 3 ch-2 spaces. 

*Sc in each st until the next peak. 

At the peak, in the ch-2 sp, make 3 sc in the same sp.

Sc in each st until the next valley.

At the valley, make a special sc3tog over the 3 ch-2 spaces.*

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round.

Sc in the top of the first sc st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 2: (Reminder: Don’t turn or make any chains).

Sc in the next st. Place a stitch marker in that first st. 

*Sc in each st until the peak (the 3 sc made in the ch-2 sp from the previous round).

At the peak, sc in the next 2 sts (the first and second of 3 sc sts made in the ch-2 sp from the previous round).

Ch 80 (or your desired number of chains for the strap).

Ensure the ch sts are not twisted and attach the strap (the ch sts) to the top of the next square (see image below) by making a sc in the third of 3 sc sts made in the ch-2 sp from the previous round.

Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog (see the “Bag Border & Strap Special Stitches” section above) over the 3 valley sts.*

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round.

Sc in the top of the first st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 3: Sc in next st. Place a stitch marker in that first st. 

*Sc in each st until the strap (the 80 ch sts). 

Working into the back ridge loops of each ch, sc VERY loosely in each ch across the strap. 

When back at the bag border, sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.*

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round.

Sc in the top of the first st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker). 

Round 4: Sc in the next st. Place a stitch marker in that first st. 

*Sc in each st until the strap. 

At the strap, make a waistcoat sc st (see the “Bag Border & Strap Special Stitches” section above) in each st across the strap.

When back at the bag border, return to making regular sc sts.

Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley).

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.* 

Repeat from * to * around until back at the first st made in the round.

Sc in the top of the first st made (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 5: Repeat Round 4. 

At the end of Round 5, use the invisible join technique (the same technique used to finish the squares) to finish the round. When using this technique for this section of the pattern, you may want to join the second stitch to the last stitch (instead of the first stitch to the last stitch) to make the join more invisible. 

Bag Border & Strap – Front Inside

With the front of the bag facing you, attach yarn under the strap on the right side on the third of 3 sc sts (see image below). 

Round 1: Attach yarn with a sl st. Sc in the same st. Place a stitch marker in that first sc st.

Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley). 

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap.

Working into both loops of each ch st, sc VERY loosely in each ch across the strap.

When back at the bag border, sc in the next st (the st with the stitch marker. Place the stitch marker in that new st).

Round 2: Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley). 

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap.

At the strap, make a waistcoat sc st in each st across the strap. 

When back at the bag body, make a regular sc in the next st (the st with the stitch marker. Place the stitch marker in that new stitch). 

Round 3: Sc in each st until the valley (the 3 sts closest to the valley). 

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap.

At the strap, make a waistcoat sc st in each st across the strap. 

When back at the bag body, make a regular sc st in the next st (the st with the stitch marker. Remove marker).

Round 4: Sc in each st until the valley. 

At the valley, make an invisible sc3tog over the 3 valley sts.

Sc in each st until the strap. 

Leave the rest of the sts in the round unworked. 

Use the invisible join technique to finish the round.

Bag Border & Strap – Back Inside

With the back of the bag facing you, attach yarn under the strap on the right side on the third of 3 sc sts (see image below). 

Repeat Rounds 1 – 4 for the Front Inside Border & Strap for the back of the bag. 

Weave in all loose ends. Use the tails to fix any gaps by sewing them over the gaps.

And now you have a flower granny square bag! 

---

How to Adjust the Size

This bag was designed, made and tested using size 4 (medium) yarn. Here are some general tips for making the bag a different size. I really wish I could provide exact information for various sizes (such as how much yarn is required) but I have only designed, made and tested this bag in the size listed in the pattern (and using the yarn weight and hook size listed in the pattern).

Making the Bag Smaller

You could make this bag smaller by using size 3 (light) yarn and an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook for the entire pattern. Following the square instructions that are provided in this pattern with size 3 yarn and an H/8 hook, creates a square that is approx. 4.75” x 4.75” (6” diagonally). Once those squares are joined, the bag is approx. 12” wide and 12” high (from the bottom to a peak). You may need to experiment with how many chains are needed for the strap. 

To make the bag a little bigger but still use size 3 (light) yarn (and an H/8 hook), you could follow the directions for Round 5 (on the right of this page).  After Round 5, each square will be approx. 5.75” x 5.75” (7.5” diagonally). Once those squares are joined, the bag is approx. 15” wide and 15” high (from the bottom to a peak).

Making the Bag Bigger

You can make the bag bigger by completing a fifth round when making the squares (instructions are below). After completing Round 5 with size 4 (medium) yarn, each square will be approx. 7” x 7” (9” diagonally). Once those squares are joined, the bag is approx. 18” wide and 18” high (from the bottom to a peak). 

Instructions for an additional round of the squares: 

After finishing the last st of Round 4, sl st into the top of the first st in the round to join. 

Round 5: Still with Color D, ch 2. 

In the last sp from the previous round (between the ch 3 and the last dc cluster), make 2 dc. 

In the first corner ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). 

In the next sp (between the tr and dc clusters), make 3 dc. 

[In the next sp (between the dc clusters), make 3 dc.] x 2. 

*In the next sp (between the dc and tr clusters), make 3 dc. 

In the next corner ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). 

In the next sp (between the tr and dc clusters), make 3 dc. 

[In the next sp (between the dc clusters), make 3 dc.] x 2.* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

(71 sts. Stitch breakdown: 23 dc clusters (23 x 3 = 69) and 2 dc sts). 

Use the invisible join technique to finish the round. 

---

I hope you enjoyed making this Flower Granny Square Bag Crochet Pattern! I’d love to hear from you and see your finished bags! Please tag @jototheworldcreations in your posts.

---

More Patterns You Might Like

---