Flower Granny Square Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Granny Square Blanket

If you are new to making or joining granny squares or if you want to learn how to make a stunning flower blanket, this granny square blanket pattern is for you! With step-by-step written instructions, detailed diagrams and a complete video tutorial, you’ll become a granny square pro! Plus, you’ll have a beautiful flower granny square blanket that you will be proud to give as a gift or show off in your own home.

Making a blanket with granny squares is fun. It’s quite neat how quickly the squares work up and once you get the hang of joining, it’s fast and easy. There is something truly special about granny squares. Their timeless charm never fades and a blanket made with granny squares is sure to become a cherished keepsake.

I know that there are some downsides to making granny square blankets and I had some doubts before starting. Yes, there are lots of ends to weave in. It’s something we have to accept. Just put on your favorite show and get weaving! I was pleasantly surprised by how quickly the ends were tucked in.

Another hesitation when it comes to granny squares is how to join them. There are so many different ways and I have tried almost all of them! After a lot of trial and error, I found that the best way to join granny squares (for this blanket and many other patterns) is with the flat slip stitch technique. This technique is fast and easy and creates a lovely polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place. I’ll show you exactly how to join the squares by making flat slip stitches in this pattern and in the video tutorial.

It’s nice to take a little break from simple one-stitch or one-row repeat blankets every once in a while and learn something new. I really enjoyed designing this granny square flower blanket pattern and I hope you enjoy making it!

A wonderful feature of granny square blankets is that you can easily adjust the size of your blanket by making more or less squares. I’ve designed this pattern as a baby blanket using size 3 (light) yarn but I’ve included a whole section at the end of this pattern on how to adjust the size as well as information about using size 4 (medium) yarn.

You can use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this pattern.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy to Intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 31” x 31” with the border (28” x 28” without the border). Instructions for adjusting the size are included at the end of the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 3 (light) yarn in 4 colors: 

• Color A (Yellow): Approx. 39 yds. I used Softee Baby by Bernat in “Lemon.” This yarn is size 3 (light) yarn and 100% acrylic. A skein is 362 yds / 331 m and 5 oz / 140 g. (I used less than 1/4 of a skein). 
• Color B (White): Approx. 78 yds. I used Baby Cuddles by Loops & Threads in “White.” This yarn is size 3 (light) yarn and 70% acrylic and 30% polyamide. A skein is 315 yds / 288 m and 4 oz / 113 g. (I used less than 1/4 of a skein). 
• Color C (Green): Approx. 104 yds. I used Baby Cuddles by Loops & Threads in “Mint.” (I used less than 1/2 of a skein).
• Color D (Beige): Approx. 859 yds. I used Baby Cuddles by Loops & Threads in “Silver Grey.” (I used 3 skeins).

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, a stitch marker and a measuring tape.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = triple/treble crochet
• dc2tog = double crochet two together 
• dc3tog = double crochet three together 
• ch-1 sp = chain 1 space 
• ch-2 sp = chain 2 space 

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial here or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Pattern Instructions

1. Make the Squares
2. Assemble the squares
3. Join the squares
4. Add the border 

Make the Squares

Square Notes

• Chains never count at stitches.
• This pattern is made in the round. Never turn at the start or end of any round. 
• Your work may curl during the first few rounds but will lay flat after round 4 (and round 5).
• Whenever making dc2tog or dc3tog sts, always make them in the same stitch or space (they are not decreases in this pattern).
• When the pattern has instructions in square brackets followed by a “x 2” or “x 3”, this means to repeat the instructions in the square brackets as indicated. For example, “[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2” means to: Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog. Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog. 
• When the pattern has instructions in round brackets, it means to crochet those instructions in the round brackets in the same stitch or space. For example, “In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog)” means to: make a dc3tog, ch 2 and dc3tog all the in the same space. 
• The pattern references “clusters.” A cluster is a group of three stitches.
• Fasten off means to cut the yarn and pull the end through the loop that was on your hook. 
• When changing colors and the instructions say to attach the new color, it means to insert your hook into the designated stitch or space. Place the new color on your hook and pull it through the stitch or space. 

Square Stitch Explanations

Throughout this square pattern, you will be making two stitches together. In this pattern, these stitches are always made in the same stitch or space (they are not made as decreases). If these stitches are new to you, here’s how to make them:

Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog)

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated sp. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same stitch or space. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 3 loops on your hook. This completed dc2tog counts as 1 st.

Double Crochet Three Together (dc3tog)

Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the designated sp. YO and pull through a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same stitch or space. YO and pull through a loop (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the same stitch or space. YO and pull through a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (4 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the 4 loops on your hook. This completed dc3tog counts as 1 st.

Square Sizing

• After Round 2 = 2.75” across
• After Round 3 = 3.75” across
• After Round 4 = 4.75” x 4.75” (6” diagonally) 
• After Round 5 = 5.75” x 5.75” (7.5” diagonally) 

Exact sizing is not important in this pattern.

Square Instructions

Make 13 multicolor squares and 12 solid color squares (25 squares in total).

START:

• For multicolor squares: Start with color A (I used yellow). 
• For solid color squares: Use color D (I used beige) throughout.

To start, make a Magic Circle.

ROUND 1: 

• For multicolor squares: Continuing using A.

Ch 1. Make 12 dc into the Magic Circle. Pull the Magic Circle tight to close. (12 sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts). Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

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ROUND 2: 

• For multicolor squares: Fasten off A. Attach B (I used white) to the first st (the same st as the sl st).

Ch 2. Reminder: never turn. 

In the first st (the same st as the sl st), dc2tog. 

*Ch 2. In the next st, dc3tog.*  

Repeat from * to * around. 

(12 sts. Stitch breakdown: 1 dc2tog and 11 dc3tog). 

Ch 1. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc2tog to join.

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ROUND 3:

• For multicolor squares: Fasten off B. Attach C (I used green) to the first ch-2 sp. 
• For solid color squares (only): Sl st into the first ch-2 sp.

Ch 2. In the same (the first) ch-2 sp, (dc2tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – first corner made. 

[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – second corner made.

[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – third corner made.

[Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog.] x 2.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) – fourth corner made.

Ch 2. In the next ch-2 sp, dc3tog. 

Ch 2. In the next ch-1 sp (the last sp), dc3tog. 

(16 sts. Stitch breakdown: 1 dc2tog and 15 dc3tog). 

Ch 1. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc2tog to join. 

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ROUND 4: 

• Multicolor square: Fasten off C. Attach D (I used beige) to the first ch-2 sp (the first corner). 
• Solid color square (only): Sl st into the first ch-2 sp (the first corner).

Ch 3. In the same (the first corner) ch-2 sp, (2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 3. 

In the second corner ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 3. 

In the third corner ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 3. 

In the fourth corner ch-2 sp, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr). 

[In the next ch-2 sp, 3 dc] x 2. 

In the next ch-1 sp (the last sp), 3 dc. 

(59 sts. Stitch breakdown: 12 dc clusters (12 x 3 = 36), 7 tr clusters (7 x 3 = 21) and 2 tr sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first tr to join.

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ROUND 5:

• Multicolor square: Continue using D. 

Ch 2. In the last sp from the previous round (between the ch-3 and the last dc cluster), make 2 dc. 

In the first corner ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). 

In the next sp (between the tr and dc clusters), make 3 dc. 

[In the next sp (between the dc clusters), make 3 dc.] x 2. 

*In the next sp (between the dc and tr clusters), make 3 dc. 

In the next corner ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). 

In the next sp (between the tr and dc clusters), make 3 dc. 

[In the next sp (between the dc clusters), make 3 dc.] x 2.* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

(71 sts. Stitch breakdown: 23 dc clusters (23 x 3 = 69) and 2 dc sts)

Proceed to the finishing directions to join. 

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FINISHING:

Use the invisible join technique to finish your square. Since this technique resembles a stitch, you will have the same number of stitches on each side of the square, which is helpful when joining granny squares together. 

Invisible Join Technique

1. After finishing the last stitch in the round, cut the yarn that’s attached to the skein, leaving an 8” long tail. 
2. Pull the tail through your last stitch (don’t worry, your work won’t come undone). 
3. Put the tail in the eye of your yarn needle.
4. Insert your yarn needle into both loops of the top of the first stitch made in the round and pull your tail through. 
5. Next, you’ll be working into the last stitch made in the round. Insert your yarn needle from top to bottom though the back loop of the last stitch. Insert your needle into the horizontal line on the back of that stitch (the small line that is parallel to the back loop). Pull the tail through both the back loop and the horizontal line on the back of the stitch. Be careful not to pull too tightly. 
6. The tail has now created two lines that are connecting the first and last stitches and resembles a stitch. 
7. Still with your yarn needle, weave the tail into stitches on the back of your work, being careful not to pull too tight. Once the tail is secure and hidden, cut any remaining yarn. 

After finishing, weave in all other loose ends.

Blocking (Optional)

Blocking can help correct any curling and help shape your work. To block your finished square, pin it on blocking boards with rust-proof pins, spray it with water and leave it to dry.

Should you block your squares before joining? 

It’s a personal preference. Some people like to block their squares before joining and others prefer to block their finished blanket (and some don’t block at all). I didn’t block my squares before joining but I did block the finished blanket. 

Assemble the Squares 

Lay your squares out with the right side/front of each square facing up as shown in the image below.  (It doesn’t matter which direction the tops/bottoms of the squares are pointing towards).

Place a stitch marker in the bottom left square’s ch-2 sp (the ch-2 sp on the bottom left corner) – this helps you remember the starting square (square A). 

Join the Squares

Joining Notes

• The squares are joined using the flat slip joining technique, which is a quick way to create a flat, polished-looking seam that securely holds the squares in place.
• Use an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook.
• Use Color D (I used beige) for joining. (Some pictures in this pattern use an alternative color for illustration purposes). You will need approx. 60 yds of yarn for joining. 
• You will always be working on joining the sides of two squares at once. 
• Both squares should be in front of you, lying flat, with the right side/front of each square facing up.
• Your working yarn should always be in between the two squares and under the loops on your hook.
• When the instructions say to join Squares “Z” and “Y,” the first square listed (in this example, Square Z) should be on your right and the second square listed (in this example, Square Y) should be on your left.

• Don’t make your stitches too tight (this is very important!). If necessary, go up a hook size. 
• Always work into the corresponding stitch on each square (for example, join the third stitch of the square on your right to the third stitch of the square on your left). 
• You will always be working into the outer loops only.  The outer loop is the loop furthest away from the inside of the square. 

• Treat the invisible join as a stitch and work into the outer loop as you would any other stitch. 

How to Make a Flat Slip Stitch

Step 1: Starting with the square on your right, insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from right to left so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have two loops on your hook. 

Step 2: Next, work into the square on your left. Insert your hook into the outer loop of the designated stitch. Note: insert your hook into the stitch from the left to the right so the hook comes out of the stitch in between the two squares. You will have three loops on your hook. 

Step 3: Note: Ensure your working yarn is in between your two squares and under the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the three loops on your hook. 

Your flat slip stitch has now been made.

Joining the next two squares:

After joining the sides of the first two squares, you will join the next two squares. Nothing special happens. You will follow the steps above for the next two squares.

Joining – Overview

First, the squares are joined vertically by joining the squares in Column 1, then Column 2, Column 3 and Column 4 (and any more columns if applicable). 

Second, the squares joined horizontally by joining the squares in Row 1, then Row 2, Row 3, and Row 4 (and any more rows if applicable). 

(You will start each column and row with new yarn by making a slip knot and placing it on your hook. At the each of each column and row, you will fasten off).

The join lines on the blanket look slightly different on the front and back: 

Joining – Columns

Instructions for each column:

• Always start joining the sides of squares by working in the second of two chain stitches (leave the first of two chain stitches unworked).
• Work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches.
• Always finish joining the sides of the squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked). 

Column 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares B and A.

Join Squares G and F.

Join Squares L and K.

Join Squares Q and P.

Join Squares V and U. 

Fasten off. 

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Column 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares C and B.

Join Squares H and G.

Join Squares M and L.

Join Squares R and Q.

Join Squares W and V. 

Fasten off. 

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Column 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares D and C.

Join Squares I and H.

Join Squares N and M.

Join Squares S and R.

Join Squares X and W. 

Fasten off. 

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Column 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Join Squares E and D.

Join Squares J and I.

Join Squares O and N.

Join Squares T and S.

Join Squares Y and X.

Fasten off. 

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Joining – Rows

Instructions for each row: 

• When joining the first two squares of a row, work in the second of the first two chain stitches. For all other squares in the row, you will work over the columns (meaning your row’s stitches will be overtop the columns) and work into both of the first two chain stitches (the first chain will have already been worked in but work into it again). 
• After the start, always work into each corresponding stitch until the next two chain stitches. 
• Always finish joining the sides of squares by working into the first of two chain stitches (leave the second of two chain stitches unworked).

Row 1: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares A and F (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts). 
• Join Squares B and G (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts). 
• Join Squares C and H.
• Join Squares D and I.
• Join Squares E and J.

Fasten off.

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Row 2: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares F and K (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares G and L (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares H and M.
• Join Squares I and N. 
• Join Squares J and O.

Fasten off.

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Row 3: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares K and P (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares L and Q (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares M and R.
• Join Squares N and S. 
• Join Squares O and T. 

Fasten off.

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Row 4: 

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

• Join Squares P and U (reminder: at the start, work in the second of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares Q and V (reminder: for the rest of the row, at the start, work over the column and into both of the first 2 ch sts).
• Join Squares R and W.
• Join Squares S and X. 
• Join Squares T and Y. 

Fasten off.

Add the Border

Border Notes:

• Do not weave in your loose ends from joining. The tails can be used to fix any gaps between the join lines and border.
• Use an H/8 (5.00 mm) hook.
• Use Color D (I used beige) for the border. You will need approx. 167 yds of yarn for the border. 

Border Round 1: Attach yarn in the starting square’s corner ch-2 sp with a sl st (the sp with a stitch marker – you can now remove the marker). Ensure the right side/front of the blanket is facing you. In the same ch-2 sp, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sc in the top of each dc st around. 

• When working into the invisible join, work into the front loop only (the loop closest to you).
• When approaching where two squares were joined, don’t work into the ch-2 sps:
  • For the first square: make 1 sc in the front loop only of the first ch (the unworked first ch from the ch-2 sp). Sk the second ch.
  • Sk the join line.
  • For the second square: make 1 sc in the back loop only of the first ch (the ch that’s already been worked in). Make 1 sc in the front loop only of the second ch (the unworked second ch).
• In the blanket’s three remaining corner ch-2 sps, make 3 sc in each ch-2 sp (don’t work into the 2 ch sts at the corners).

When back at the first st made in the round, sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Border Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch). Sc in each st around, except at the corners. At each corner, make 3 sc in the corner st (the corner st is the middle sc st of the 3 sc made in each corner in the previous round). When back at the first st made in the round, sl st into the top of the first sc made to join. 

Border Rounds 3 & 4: Repeat Round 2. 

Border Round 5: Ch 2 and turn. (The right side/front of the blanket should be facing you). Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch).  Dc in each st around, except at the corners. At each corner, make 3 dc in each corner st. Sl st into the top of the first dc to join.

Border Round 6: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sk the first st (the st attached to the ch). *Sl st into the next st. Make 4 sc in the next st (shell created). Sk the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. (Nothing special happens at the corners).

As you approach the first shell made, you’ll want to have a sl st between it and your last shell. If you don’t have the right number of sts, back up and don’t skip a stitch after a shell to make it work. 

After your last sl st, fasten off and weave in loose ends. Use the tails to fix any gaps between the join lines and border.

How to Adjust the Size

You can adjust the size of the blanket by making more or less squares. 

Another way to adjust the size is to finish the square after Round 4. Ending after Round 4 will create a smaller blanket than ending after Round 5. To end after Round 4, after your last stitch in the round, don’t finish by making a slip stitch. Instead, after your last stitch, use the invisible joining technique to finish the round.

YARN DETAILS FOR ADJUSTING THE SIZE:

To help you determine how much yarn will be required if you make a different number of squares, I’ve included additional yarn details below. I wish I could help tell you exactly how much yarn you will need to make the blanket a different size but I’ve only designed, made and tested this blanket in the size listed in the pattern.

YARN DETAILS USING SIZE 3 (LIGHT) YARN:

For each multicolor square, you will need approx.: 

• For Color A (I used Yellow): 3 yds
• For Color B (I used White): 6 yds 
• For Color C (I used Green): 8 yds
• For Color D (I used Beige): 20 yds (if you end after Round 4, you will only need 11 yds of Color D). 

For each solid color square, you will need approx.:

• One color: 31 yds (if you end after Round 4, you will only need 25 yds of your one color. 

Breakdown of Color D: 

As a reference point, here is a breakdown of the amount of yarn required for Color D for this pattern:  

• 260 yds for 13 multicolor squares.
• 372 yds for 12 solid color squares.
• 60 yds for joining 25 squares. 
• 167 yds for the border (going around 25 squares). 

Using Size 4 (Medium) Yarn

This blanket was designed, made and tested with size 3 (light) yarn. You are welcome to try using size 4 (medium) yarn but the overall look, feel and size as well as the amount of yarn required may be different. 

I have designed, made and tested the square pattern with size 4 (medium) yarn but not the entire blanket. I’ve included the details for making the square with size 4 (medium) yarn below.

Crochet Hook Size: For size 4 yarn, use an I/9 (5.50 mm) hook. 

Sizing: Using size 4 yarn, the square measures approx.:

• After Round 2 = 3” across
• After Round 3 = 4.5” across
• After Round 4 = 5.75” x 5.75” (7” diagonally)
• After Round 5 = 7” x 7” (9” diagonally) 

YARN DETAILS USING SIZE 4 YARN:

To help you determine how much yarn will be required to make the blanket using size 4 (medium) yarn, I’ve included how much yarn is required for making a square with size 4 yarn. I wish I could help tell you exactly how much yarn you will need in total but I’ve only designed, made and tested this blanket pattern using size 3 (light) yarn.

For each square, you will need approx.:

• For Color A (Yellow): Approx. 3 yds. I used Impeccable by Loops & Threads in “Lemon.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g.
• For Color B (White): Approx. 7 yds. I used Impeccable in “White.”
• For Color C (Green): Approx. 10 yds. I used Impeccable in “Fern.”
• For Color D (Mauve): For a multicolor square: approx. 30 yds (if you end after Round 4, you will only need 15 yds). For a solid color square: 46 yds (if you end after Round 4, you will only need 32 yds). I used Soft Classic Solid Yarn by Loops & Threads in “Mauve.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g.

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And that completes this pattern. Now you have a new flower granny square blanket! 

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Make a Flower Granny Square Bag!

If you enjoyed making this blanket, you’ll love making this beautiful granny square bag, which is made with the same square pattern.

Check out the matching Flower Granny Square Bag Crochet Pattern.

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