Primrose Stitch Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Modern & Easy Crochet Blanket Pattern

With its combination of classic stitches and contemporary design, this quick crochet blanket pattern creates a visually striking modern crochet blanket.

Whether you are searching for a splendid and easy crochet baby blanket free pattern or a stunning and easy crochet throw blanket, you’ll love how effortlessly you can learn how to crochet a blanket that WOWs. 

In this crochet blanket tutorial, you will learn how to do the beautiful primrose stitch, which has a lovely subtle (yet stunning) texture. The primrose stitch is made with only basic stitches and there’s a step-by-step video tutorial as well as written instructions with diagrams to ensure you can easily follow along.

You can use the Table of Contents to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down.

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Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 36” x 36” (32” x 32” without the border). Instructions for adjusting the size are included in the pattern. Learn more about crochet blanket sizes.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn. Learn about yarn weights. You will need approx. 1,200 yds in total.

I used Heartland yarn by Lion Brand in the color “Carlsbad Caverns.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 251 yds / 230 m and 5 oz / 142 g. I used five skeins in total (920 yds for the blanket body and 280 yds for the border). 

Read the FAQs at the bottom of this pattern to learn about using a different yarn weight or hook size.

Crochet Hook Size: J/10 (6.00 mm). Learn about crochet hook sizes.

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. Check out my essential crochet supplies.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• sk = skip 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• ch-2 sp = chain two space
• V-st = V-Stitch (see special stitches)
• RS = right side (front)
• WS = wrong side (back)

Learn more about crochet abbreviations.

Gauge

4” x 4” = 15 dc (or 5 V-sts) and 8 rows following the pattern for the blanket body. To make a swatch, ch 23 and follow the pattern for the blanket body. Learn more about crochet gauge.

Pattern Notes

• Chains never count as stitches. 
• The blanket is made from the chain row up. The number of starting chains determines the width and the number of rows determines the height. To adjust the width, make more or less starting chains in multiples of 6 + 2 (meaning to take any number that you can divide by 6 and then add 2 to that number). To adjust the height, make more or less rows. Read the FAQs at the bottom of this pattern to learn more about adjusting the size.

Special Stitch

V-Stitch (V-st) = In this pattern, a V-st is: (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same stitch or space. 

When making a V-st, you are creating a ch-2 sp that you will work into on the following row or round. To work into a ch-2 sp, insert your hook in between the two sc sts and under the two ch sts. 

Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial here or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Pattern Instructions

Blanket Body

Start: Ch 122. 

For Row 1 (only) work into the back ridge loops. 

Row 1 (RS): In the second ch from hook, sc. 

Sc in each ch across. (121 sts).

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Row 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), sc.

*Sk the next 2 sts. 

In the next st, V-st (Reminder: in this pattern, a V-st is: (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same st or sp. See Special Stitch above for more info).* 

Repeat from * to * across until there are 3 sts left. Sk the next 2 sts. 

In the last st, sc. 

(Stitch count: 2 sc + 39 V-sts = 80 sc sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts).

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Row 3 (RS): Ch 2 and turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the chs), dc. 

*In each ch-2 sp, make 3 dc.* 

Repeat from * to * across. 

In the last st, dc. 

(Stitch count: 2 dc + (39 x 3 dc) = 119 dc sts).

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Row 4 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), sc. 

Sk the next st. 

*In the next st, V-st. 

Sk the next 2 sts.* 

Repeat from * to * across until there are 3 sts left. 

In the next (third last) st, V-st. 

Sk the next (second last) st. 

In the last st, sc. 

(Stitch count: 2 sc + 39 V-sts = 80 sc sts). 

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Row 5 and on: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 consecutively until your blanket body is approx. 31” high (for me, that was 64 rows) or approx. 1” away from your desired height. 

Finish the blanket body by repeating Row 3. (My completed blanket body was 32” high and 65 rows).

Do not fasten off.

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Blanket Border

Ensure you have just completed a repeat of Row 3.  

Note: For the top and bottom of Round 1, you will be skipping sts and chs to ensure the finished border fits properly and doesn’t ruffle. 

Border Round 1 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. 

TOP: In the first st (the st attached to the ch), make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sk the next st. 

Sc in the next st. 

*Sk the next st. Sc in the next 5 sts.* 

Repeat from * to * across top until there are 2 sts left.

Sk the next (second last) st.

In the last st, make 3 sc (second corner made). 

SIDE (DOWN): Sc evenly down the side. 

When working down (and up) and the sides, you can work into 1 loop or 2 or into sps near the sts. The exact stitch count is not important. The goal is to have evenly spaced out sc sts down (and up) the side.

Need help with where to work into down the side? When you see a ch-2, work 1 sc into/near the top and 1 sc in into/near the bottom of that ch-2. When you see a sc, work 1 sc into that sc st.

When working into the ch sts, work under both loops.

BOTTOM: In the first ch across the bottom, make 3 sc (third corner made). 

Sk the next ch.

Sc in the next ch.

*Sk the next ch. Sc in the next 5 chs.* 

Repeat from * to * across bottom until there are 4 chs left.

Sk the next (fourth last) ch.

Sc in the next (third last) ch.

Sk the next (second last) ch. 

In the last ch, make 3 sc (fourth corner made).

SIDE (UP): Sc evenly up the side. 

Need help with where to work into up the side? When you see a dc, work 1 sc into the top and 1 sc into the bottom of that dc st. When you see a ch-1, work 1 sc into/near that ch-1.

Sl st in the top of the first sc made in the round. 

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Border Round 2 (RS): Ch 2 and turn. 

Sk the st attached to the chs.

*Dc in each st until the corner st (the corner st is the middle of 3 sc sts made in the corner in the previous round). 

In the corner st, make 3 dc.*

Repeat from * to * around until there is 1 st left. 

In the last st, dc. 

Sl st into the top of the first dc made in the round to join.

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Border Round 3 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. 

Sk the st attached to the ch. 

Make a V-st in the next 4 sts (first corner completed). Reminder: in this pattern, a V-st is: (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same st or sp.

[*Sk the next st. In the next st, V-st.*

Repeat from * to * until the 3 dc sts made in the corner in the previous round.  

Your st before the 3 dc corner sts may be a V-st or a skipped st (it doesn’t matter).

In each of the 3 dc corner sts, make a V-st.]

Complete the instructions from [ to ] a total of 3 times. 

After the fourth corner, *sk the next st. In the next st, V-st.* 

Repeat from * to * until back at first V-st made in the round. 

As you approach the first V-st made in the round, your st before may be a V-st or a skipped st (it doesn’t matter).

Sl st into the top of the first sc made in the round (from the first V-st) to join. 

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Border Round 4 (RS): Ch 1 and turn.

[*In each ch-2 sp, V-st.*

Repeat from * to * until the ch-2 sp closest to the corner. 

In the ch-2 sp closest to the corner, 

(sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, sc).]

Repeat from [ to ] around.

After the fourth corner, in each remaining ch-2 sp, V-st until back at the first V-st made in the round. 

Sl st into the top of the first sc made in the round (from the first V-st) to join. 

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Border Round 5 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. 

[*In each ch-2 sp, V-st.*

Repeat from * to * until the two ch-2 sps made in the corner in the previous round.

In both corner ch-2 sps, (sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, sc).]

Repeat from [ to ] around.

After the fourth corner, *in each ch-2 sp, V-st.*

Repeat from * to * until back at the first V-st made in the round. 

Sl st into the top of of the first sc (from the first V-st) to join.

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Border Round 6 (RS): Ch 1 and turn. 

*In each ch-2 sp, V-st.*

Repeat from * to * around. Nothing special happens at the corners (make a V-st in the four ch-2 spaces made in each corner in the previous round). 

Sl st into the top of of the first sc (from the first V-st) to join. 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

And now you have a new primrose stitch blanket!

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Use a Different Yarn Weight or Hook Size?

This pattern was designed using size 4 (medium) yarn and a J/10 (6.00 mm) hook. You are welcome to try different yarn weights as well as hook sizes but the overall look, feel and size of the blanket as well as the amount of yarn required may be different. 

As much as I wish I could help, I can’t recommend a hook size for a different yarn weight or tell you how much yarn you will need since I’ve only designed this pattern using size 4 (medium) yarn and a J/10 (6.00 mm) hook. 

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How Many Chains Are Required to Adjust the Size?

Making 122 starting chains creates a blanket that is approx. 32” wide without the border (36” wide with the border). You can adjust the width by making more or less starting chains in multiples of 6 + 2 (meaning to take any number that you can divide by 6 and add 2 to that number. For example: 60 + 2 = 62 starting chains). To adjust the height, make more or less rows.

As a guideline: 119 dc sts (in Row 3) = 32“ wide, which means there are approx. 3.72 stitches in an inch. You can take the width you want your blanket to be (in inches) and multiply it by 3.72. That should give you a rough estimate of how many stitches you will need in a row for your desired width. Then, round up that number to the nearest multiple of 6 and add 2 – that’s how many starting chains you will need. 

Here’s an example: You want your blanket to be 80” wide. 80 x 3.72 = 297.6. Round up 297.6 to the nearest multiple of 6 = 300. Then add 2 to that number = 302. To make your blanket approx. 80” wide, you would make 302 starting chains. (This is a rough estimate and has not been tested but should give you a width that is close to what you want it to be). 

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Is the Blanket Reversible?

The blanket is reversible and looks lovely on both sides. The front and the back look slightly different because of which side the stitches are facing.

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Why is my Chain Row Shorter than 32”?

Everyone makes their chains with different tensions. It’s best not to measure your chain row. Instead, measure the width after making several rows. If after several rows, you would like to make it a different size, you can start again with a different number of starting chains (in multiples of 6 + 2). 

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