Paw Print Bag Crochet Pattern – Free

Crochet Paw Print Bag

Whether you are looking for a crochet tote bag, beach bag or shoulder bag, this sturdy and large (and pawsitively-adorable!) Crochet Paw Print Bag will hold all your gear and showcase your love for your pet and animals.

It’s made with two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern, which creates a thick, dense fabric that won’t stretch too much.

There are paw prints on both sides on the outside of the bag and inside, there is lots of room for all of your stuff.

Make More Crochet Paw Print Patterns

After making with Paw Print Bag, you might also like these paw-terns:

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Paw Print Bag Crochet Pattern

This Paw Print Bag Crochet Pattern is very detailed and includes instructions for the bottom, body and straps. Plus, there’s a full chart for the bag body to help you follow along.

This pattern is made by crocheting with two colors at the same time – the main color (the background) and the contrast color (the paw prints). If you are new to colorwork, I have a full guide with a video tutorial on How to Crochet with Two Colors.

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Get the PDF!

Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a bag that is approx. 13” high (from the bottom), 16” wide along the bottom, 19” wide along the body and 4” deep with straps that are 10” away from the bag. 

Materials

Yarn: You can use any size 4 (medium) yarn in two colors.

This pattern is worked with two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern. You can either separate your yarn manually or use multiple skeins.

• For the main color (A), you will need approx. 2 x 500 yds (1,000 yds in total). I used Pound of Love by Lion Brand in Oxford Grey. This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 1020 yds / 932 m and 16 oz / 448 g. I used two skeins at once and used half a skein of each. 

• For the contrast color (B), you will need approx. 4 x 60 yds (240 yds in total). I used Impeccable Solid by Loops and Threads in White. This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. I used 1 skein (separated into 4 balls/bobbins). 

Crochet Hook Size: K/10.5 (6.50 mm)

Other Materials: Stitch markers, pins, yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• RS = right side (the front/outside of the bag)
• WS = wrong side (the back/inside of the bag)
• A = main/background color
• B = contrast color (color used for the paw prints)

Gauge

4” x 4” = 11 sc and 13 rounds

Working with Two Colors

For the bag body, you will add/pick up and use the contrast color (B) only when working on the paw prints and carry the main color (A) along the wrong side (WS) until you are ready to use it again. 

Once finished with the contrast color for the round, you will drop it (you don’t carry it around). You will be turning after each round so the contrast color will be right there when you need it again on the next round. 

There are many times throughout the pattern where you need to carry the contrast color along the wrong side to ensure it’s in the correct place (either further along the current round or in the next round). These times are indicated in the written instructions and on the chart. 

Ensure all strands are always kept along the wrong side.

Here is more information on how to crochet with two colors including a video tutorial. If you read/watched this, I speak a lot about catching floats. For this pattern, you will be catching floats every 2-3 stitches. 

Preparing Your Yarn

Because the pattern is worked with two strands of yarn held together, you will be using two balls/bobbins at once for each paw print. You will be making two paw prints at once and will need to separate your contrast color (B) into 4 separate balls/bobbins before starting the pattern. Each ball/bobbin should have at least 60 yds (25 g) of yarn.

Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

You can also purchase it on Etsy or Ravelry.

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Crochet Paw Print Bag Pattern Instructions

Pattern Notes

• Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern, treating them as one strand and crocheting normally. 
• Chains never count as stitches.
• Always put a stitch marker in the top of the first single crochet stitch made in the round to help ensure you start and end in the right place and you have the correct number of stitches.

Paw Print Bag Bottom

Bag Bottom Notes

These notes apply to the bag bottom only: 

• The bag is made from the bottom up. The bottom is worked in a continuous round (you don’t turn). 
• Always work into the first stitch, the stitch attached to the chain. If the instructions for the beginning of the round say “next st,” work into the first stitch (the stitch attached to the chain).
• If the instructions say “[2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 2,” what this means is to complete the steps in brackets a total of two times (i.e. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.). 

Bag Bottom Instructions

Start: With your main color (A) and two strands of yarn held together, chain 31. Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern. Continue to use (A) until instructed to change colors. 

Round 1: In the second ch from hook, sc. Sc in the next 28 chains. In the last ch, 5 sc. Working into the other side of the ch, sc in the next 28 chains. In the last ch, 2 sc. (64 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. Don’t turn. In the first st, 2 sc. Sc in next 29 sts. 2 sc in next 3 sts. Sc in next 29 sts. 2 sc in next 2 sts. (70 sts – reminder: chains never count as stitches). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. (After Round 2, work should measure approx. 12.5” long x 1.5” wide).

Round 3: Ch 1. Don’t turn. 2 sc in next 2 sts. Sc in next 30 sts. 2 sc in next 5 sts. Sc in next 30 sts. 2 sc in next 3 sts. (80 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Round 4: Ch 1. Don’t turn. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 2. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 5. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 3. (90 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. (After Round 4, work should measure approx. 14” long x 3” wide).

Round 5: Ch 1. Don’t turn. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 2 sts.] x 2. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 2 sts.] x 5. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 2 sts.] x 3. (100 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Round 6: Ch 1. Don’t turn. Sc in next 5 sts. In next st, 2 sc. Sc in next 36 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 5 sts.] x 3. Sc in next 34 sts. In next st, 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sts. Sk the last st. (104 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. (After Round 6, work should measure approx. 16” long  x 4” wide (4” in the middle and 4.5” on ends)). 

Round 7: Ch 1. Don’t turn. Sc in the back loops only (the loops furthest away from you) of each st around. (104 sts). Sl st into both loops of the top of the first sc to join.

Do not fasten off. The round numbers will now reset to make it easier to count rounds from the bottom up.

Note: As you work on the bag body, you will notice that the right side (the top) of the bottom you just completed will be facing down and will be on the outside bottom of the bag.

Paw Print Bag Body

Bag Body Pattern Notes

• The bag body is worked in the round but you will chain 1 and turn after each round (starting on Round 2). 
• On right side (RS) rounds, the outside of your work will be facing you. On wrong side (WS) rounds, the inside of your work will be facing you.
• Add/switch colors when you have two loops of the old color on the sc stitch BEFORE the new color stitch.
• Ensure all strands are always kept on the wrong side (the inside of your bag).
• Catch A’s floats every 2-3 stitches. You can learn more about catching floats here. 
• Only carry B when instructed to catch/trap B’s floats. Otherwise, drop it when not in use. 
• Reminders:
  • Always put a stitch marker in the top of the first sc st made in the round. 
  • Chains never count as stitches. 

Bag Body Written Instructions

Pattern chart is below.

Round 1 (RS): Still using two strands of A, ch 1. Don’t turn. Sc in the first st (the st attached to the chain).  Sc in each st around. (104 sc sts). Sl st in the top of the first sc to join. 

Round 2 (WS): Still with A, ch 1 and turn. The first stitch of the round that you will work into is the top of the last sc completed from the previous round. (The st attached to the ch is from the sl st that joined the last round – do not work into it. Ensure you’re working into the last sc completed from the previous round (if you’re not sure, redo the end of the last round and place a stitch marker in the last stitch)).

Sc in each st around. (104 sc sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

For the rest of the pattern, the format of the instructions changes to: 

Round 3 (RS): A x 104. 

What this means is from now on: 

• Always chain 1 and turn to start each round. 
• Never work into the st attached to the chain. The first stitch of the round that you will work into is the top of the last sc completed from the previous round. 
• Follow the instructions. Every stitch is a single crochet st. (A x 104 means with A, sc in each st around). 
• At the end of each round, you should have a total of 104 sc sts. 
• Finish each round with a sl st in the top of the first sc to join. 

Round 4 (WS): A x 104. 

Round 5 (RS): A x 24, B x 5, A x 48, B x 5, A x 22. 

Here’s how to complete Round 5 step by step:

Ch 1 and turn. Don’t work into the st attached to the ch. Ensure your first st is in the top of the last sc made in the last round. Remember to put a stitch marker in the top of the first st. 

With A, sc for 23 sts. On the 24th st, add the first two strands of B. Make sure the hanging yarn is along the inside/wrong side. 

With B, sc for 4 sts. Remember to catch A’s float every 2-3 sts. On the 5th st, switch back to A. Drop B and leave it where it is. 

With A, sc for 47 sts. On the 48th st, add the second two strands of B (with the hanging yarn along the inside/wrong side). 

Note: the instructions don’t state which paw print you are working on as both use B, just in different places.

With this second B, sc for 4 sts. Remember to catch A’s float every 2-3 sts. On the 5th st, switch back to A. Drop this second B and leave it where it is.

With A, sc for 22 sts. 

Count your sts, you should have a total of 104 sc sts. 

With A, sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Round 6 (WS): A x 21, B x 8, A x 45, B x 8, A x 22.

Round 7 (RS): A x 21, B x 9, A x 44, B x 9, A x 21.

Round 8 (WS): A x 21, B x 9, A x 44, B x 9, A x 21.

Round 9 (RS): A x 20, B x 11, A x 42, B x 11, A x 20.

Round 10 (WS): A x 20, B x 12, A x 41, B x 12, A x 19.

Round 11 (RS): A x 17, B x 14, A x 39, B x 14, A x 20.

Round 12 (WS): A x 20, B x 16, A x 37 (catch B on the 3rd st*), B x 16, A x 15 (catch B on the 3rd st).

*Catch B on the X stitch means to catch/trap B’s float along the wrong side to ensure that B is easily accessible either on the next round or further down the current round. For this round, it says: “A x 37 (catch B on the 3rd st).” This means that on your 3rd of 37 sts with A, you will pick up B and catch/trap B’s float on the wrong side of that third stitch. Then drop that B. For this round, the next B you will use is the B for the second paw print. 

Round 13 (RS): A x 12, B x 19, A x 34, B x 19, A x 20.

Round 14 (WS): A x 20, B x 20, A x 33, B x 20, A x 11.

Round 15 (RS): A x 10, B x 20, A x 33 (on the 4th and 8th sts, catch B), B x 20, A x 21 (on the 4th and 8th sts, catch B),

Round 16 (WS): A x 13, B x 5, A x 3, B x 21, A x 24, B x 5, A x 3, B x 21, A x 9.

Round 17 (RS): A x 9, B x 21, A x 2, B x 7, A x 23, B x 21, A x 2, B x 7, A x12.

Round 18 (WS): A x 11, B x 8, A x 2, B x 21, A x 22, B x 8, A x 2, B x 21, A x 9.

Round 19 (RS): A x 9, B x 21, A x 3, B x 8, A x 21, B x 21, A x 3, B x 8, A x 10.

Round 20 (WS): A x 10, B x 8, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 20, A x 21, B x 8, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 20, A x 9.

Round 21 (RS): A x 10, B x 19, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 8, A x 21, B x 19, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 8, A x 9.

Round 22 (WS): A x 9, B x 6, A x 8 (catch B on the 3rd and 6th sts), B x 15, A x 24, B x 6, A x 8 (catch B on the 3rd and 6th sts), B x 15, A x 13.

Round 23 (RS): A x 16, B x 12, A x 9 (catch B on the 4th and 8th sts), B x 4, A x 28, B x 12, A x 9 (catch B on the 4th and 8th sts), B x 4, A x 10.

Round 24 (WS): A x 16 (catch B on the 11th and 15th sts) B x 4, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 7, A x 37 (catch B on the 32nd and 36th sts), B x 4, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 7, A x 19.

Round 25 (RS): A x 21, B x 4, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 6, A x 38, B x 4, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 6, A x 15.

Round 26 (WS): A x 14, B x 7, A x 46 (catch B on the 2nd, 6th, 10th and 14th sts), B x 7, A x 30 (catch B on 2nd, 6th, 10th and 14th sts). 

Round 27 (RS): A x 16, B x 3, A x 11 (catch B on the 4th and 8th sts), B x 7, A x 32, B x 3, A x 11 (catch b on the 4th and 8sts), B x 7, A x 14.

Round 28 (WS): A x 13, B x 8, A x 3, B x 3, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 5, A x 30, B x 8, A x 3, B x 3, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 5, A x 15.

Round 29 (RS): A x 14, B x 6, A x 3, B x 5, A x 3, B x 7, A x 29, B x 6, A x 3, B x 5, A x 3, B x 7, A x 13.

Round 30 (WS): A x 13, B x 6, A x 3, B x 6, A x 2, B x 7, A x 29, B x 6, A x 3, B x 6, A x 2, B x 7, A x 14.

Round 31 (RS): A x 14, B x 7, A x 2, B x 6, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 5, A x 29, B x 7, A x 2, B x 6, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 5, A x 13.

Round 32 (WS): A x 14, B x 2, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 7, A x 2, B x 7, A x 30, B x 2, A x 5 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 7, A x 2, B x 7, A x 14.

Round 33 (RS): A x 14, B x 7, A x 2, B x 7, A x 37, B x 7, A x 2, B x 7, A x 21.

Round 34 (WS): A x 21, B x 6, A x 3, B x 7, A x 37, B x 6, A x 3, B x 7, A x 14.

Round 35 (RS): A x 15, B x 5, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 6, A x 38, B x 5, A x 4 (catch B on the 3rd st), B x 6, A x 21.

Round 36 (WS): A x 22, B x 4, A x 5 (catch B on the 4th st), B x 4, A x 40, B x 4, A x 5 (catch B on the 4th st), B x 4, A x 16.

Round 37 (RS): A x 17, B x 2, A x 7 (catch B on the 4th st), B x 3, A x 41, B x 2, A x 7 (catch B on the 4th st), B x 3, A x 22. Fasten off all Bs. 

Round 38 (WS): A x 104.

Rounds 39 – 42: Repeat Round 38. 

After Round 42, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

Bag Body Pattern Chart

• White square = sc with A (main/background color) on RS rounds 
• Light grey square = sc with A (main/background color) on WS rounds
• Dark grey square = sc with B (contrast/paw print color) 
•  ^ = catch/trap B’s float along WS (for both RS and WS rounds)

How to Follow the Chart: Read the chart from right to left when working on right side (RS) rounds and left to right when working on the wrong side (WS). The chart is lightly shaded on wrong sides to help you remember. (The written instructions list everything in the correct order).

Straps

Leave a 30” starting tail that you will use to attach the strap to the inside of the bag. 

Start: With A (still using two strands), chain 7. 

Row 1: In the second ch from hook, sc. Sc in each st across. (6 sc sts). 

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st (the st attached to the ch), sc. Sc in each st across (6 sc sts). 

Rows 3 – 104: Repeat Row 2. 

After Row 104, fasten off, leaving a 30” ending tail. 

After Row 104, your strap should measure approx. 34” high. If you need to adjust the height, you can continue repeating Row 2. Ensure you note your total number of rows as you need both straps to be the exact same size. 

Make another strap (two in total). 

Strap Placement

The straps go on the inside of the bag, 4” from the side, with the bottoms of the straps 5” from the top.

Attaching the Straps

Turn the bag inside out. Pin straps in place.

Using the 30” tails (one strand at a time) and a yarn needle, attach the straps to the inside of the bag body, only working into the backs of stitches to ensure the yarn does not show through the front. Attach all around.

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

And now you have a new Paw Print Bag! 

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